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There are no accidental meetings or events. Maria Cardell, Denis Urubko, Sergey Nilov and Dmitriy Golovchenko. Pakistan

Photo: Mountain.RU

Expeditions on Mountain.RU:

-Masherbrum Northeast Face

-Grand Jorasses North Face Expedition

-TrollWall 2006 expedition

-Shkhelda-2007 (Caucasus, Russia) Expedition

-Russian National Alpinist Team New Expedition: K2 (8611m) West Face first climb.

-Karavshin 2007

-Big Wall - Russian Way. Kyzyl-Asker peak (5600m) Southeast face, Kirghizia-China

-Haina Brakk Direct 2007

-Venezuela , Amazonian region, Tepui, Autana

- Simone Moro.BaturaII,7762m

- Chomo Lonzo FFME Expedition

- Cerro Torre Expedition of Adventure Team Alpindustria -2005

- "Russian Pumori Team" Expedition

- First Shisha Pangma Winter Ascent

- Amin Brakk (Great Tower) B.A.S.E.-climbing expedition, Karakorum, Pakistan

Jannu. West pillar. To surpass oneself
It probably would have been difficult for me to get through so many events and ascents that I have experienced during my long years of climbing and to survive thus far, had it not been for a deep-seated intuitive sense of caution. This sense has pointed the way out of many dangerous situations, intuitively leading me in the right direction in my struggle to survive.

Author: Valeri Babanov, Chamonix

Baruntse West Face Heavenly trap
The weather is devilish and even ordinary basic tasks, such as boiling water or going to urinate, are on the limits of survival

Author: Marek Holecek, Czech Republic

The West Face of Baruntse
Climbing the almost 1500m route up the face took seven days - seven days of constant physical and psychological tension. Snow pitches alternated with sections of rock, often plastered with ice. Placing protection on such mixed routes is more complicated than on a purely rock or ice route

Author: Sergei Efimov, Yekaterinburg, Russia
Translated from the Russian by Richard Sills

Sani Pakkush 6953m (Virgin South face) Revers gagnant
After two weeks we were ready to give a try in this big piece of alpinism. Poor weather conditions made us wait fax days more but the sun was expected to shine for almost one week which made us allow to give a proper try in the face

About real winter again
What does mean for you "Mezzogiorno" (Midday)? Is the moment when the sun is in the hiest position onto the sky. What does mean "Mezzonotte" (Midnight)? Exactly controversial - sun locate in the lowest position, other side of the Earth

Author: Denis Urubko

Piolets dOr 2019
In 2019 the International Jury of the Piolets d'Or has chosen to honour three innovative ascents: a famous face on an iconic mountain of the central Karakoram

Baintha Brakk WII 6540m, NE Buttress, attempt
On the long west-northwest ridge of Baintha Brakk (a.k.a. Ogre, 7,265m) lie several impressive summits, including Baintha Brakk West (6,660m) and Baintha Brakk West II (6,540m). Max Ten and I had the latter as our goal for the summer of 2018

: Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Alma-Ata

Spirit of mounteering et Nanga Parbat
The two men team was climbing the infamous 13km long Mazeno Ridge, the lengthiest arete on any 8000 meters peak

Author: Major General Khalil Dar, Pakistan

Latok I Saving Chief Mate Gukov Part IV
How many days can rescue operations last? How adequate are decisions made by the relatives who frequently know nothing or precious little about mountains?

Author Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
Translation Maria Samsonova, Ekaterinburg

Winter Nanga Parbat Expedition. Daniele Nardi from Base Camp
We did not expect so heavy snow fall so we left the equipment into a crevass on 5700m. That's the only possibility to fix a camp in that area so we were forced to fix the tent there

Author: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
Photo from D. Nardi's page

Two new routes on the north face of Ordzhonikidze, 4410 m
There are no walk-downs from the summit of Ordzhonikidze. The easiest route is Russian 2B or French PD. On the icy north face were three existing routes, the first by Alexander Kolegovs team in 1956. Much later, Vassily Pivtsov and various friends added two more, in 2000 and 2004. All these were 4A or 4B

Author: Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Almaty

Latok I Saving Chief Mate Gukov Part III
Gukov, what about Gukov? My lively imagination was presenting a picture of him dying there on his ledge.
Little by little.
Life is going to seep out of him over a long, long time because he is healthy, not injured, and the weather is relatively warm

Author Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
Translation Maria Samsonova, Ekaterinburg

Latok I. Saving Chief Mate Gukov
The rescue operation will begin tomorrow at six a.m. Moscow time

Author Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
Translation Maria Samsonova, Ekaterinburg

Alexander Gukov.Latok IImpossible is not forever
its Latok I, Sanya, - Sergey shouted.Take me, I shouted to him. This is unreal, Sanya.Everything is covered with snow mushrooms and vertical slopes here, Sergey answered and began to descend.

:Alexander Gukov, S.Peterburg
Translation: Maria Samsonova, Dmitry Zagorovskiy, Ekaterinburg

Ala Archa. Guidebook
Ala Archa. Guidebook

: Dmitry Grekov, Bishkek

First Winter Ascent of Peak Korzhenevskaya, 7105m, via South Face
New route is called Olcha in memory of our friend Olga Goroganina

: Sergey Seliverstov, Kyrgyzstan

Grandes Jorasses
Nothing happens by chance, everything happens for a reason, thats what was on my mind as Roma and I got on the Freboudze glacier in the early summer 2016. We were looking at the east face of the Grandes Jorasses and we already imagined ourselves climbing there

, . runetki

Text by Maxim Foygel, Krasnodar
Photos Maxim Foygel and Roman Gorodischenskiy

Moveable Feast. Thalay Sagar 2016
As far as I know, nobody has ever climbed North face of Thalay Sagar without using portaledge. We, on the contrary, ceased using portaledge after "No Fear" on Trango Nameless. It was a sort of extra challenge for us this time try to make it with a tent for 2

Author Dmitry Golovchenko, Moscow

Tibet West Nyenchen Tanglha expedition report
Recently Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson and Marcus Palm came back from a successful exploratory expedition in Tibet, where they made a first ascent of Jang Tsang Go (6300 m) in West Nyenchen Tanglha mountain range that is mainly unvisited area

: Domen Kastelic, Slovenia

Cerro San Lorenzo: three new routes by Slovenian alpinists in Patagonia
In November 2015 a team of five Slovenian alpinists Dejan Koren, Bostjan Mikuz, Rok Kurincic, Domen Petrovcic and Domen Kastelic spent a month in the area of Cerro San Lorenzo, the second highest peak in Patagonia. They established three new routes: Direct Route in Cerro Hermoso's southwest face (TD-, 1100 m Petrovcic, Kastelic), No fiesta in Cerro San Lorenzo's East Face

Author: Manca Cujez, Slovenia

Talung 7349m, first ascent via NNW spur
At the beginning of acclimatization phase we came up to our spur to look at it and to see the quality of the ice and rock. Even after looking at the first pitches we realized that it would be something like Chamonix mixed climbing but with heavy packs higher than 6000 m and during a week!

Autor: Mikhail Fomin, Nikita Balabanov, Ukraine

Kok-Shaal Too 2015 Short history
Idea was that all 3 teams could work independently. For that purpose Grigoriev joined second team for acclimatization period, 3rd team were climbing easiest lines while me and Nilov were doing reconnaissance of major goal. One of unpleasant surprises: we found garbage with dates of 2010 and 2011 on glacier under South East face of the mountain

Author Dmitry Golovchenko, Moscow

Thulagi Chuli, 7059m, Mansari Himal, Gandaki zone, Nepal
25th of September four of us Aleksander Gukov, Ivan Dojdev, Valeriy Shamalo and Ruslan Kirichenko were staying on the unclimbed summit of Mt. Thulagi Chuli

: Alexandr Gukov, St. Petersburg

Kyzyl Asker 2015. Or how we went to western Kokshaal Too in search of an alpine adventure
The journey took us from Ljubljana through Istanbul, before we landed in Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. The next few days were spent wandering about town and shopping for food

: Miha Hauptman

About paragliding in Azerbaijan
Azerbaijan is the country that fits ideally Mountaineering and Paragliding needs. We are leaving at area of Small and Big Caucasus next to the Caspian Sea

: Jamal Kashkay, Azerbaijan

Attention! The 24th cycle of solar activity and its peak of accidents
Now we have time to monitor the laws of accidence by the time the next SA cycle will have come (and its peak will fall approximately within the period 2022-2024) and to try to make the accidence less by way of introducing advanced security measures

: Evgeniy Buyanov, St. Petersburg, Russia

Leha! In memory of Alexey Bolotov
Because Leha was the special, outstanding person. Such people deserve to be remembered and spoken about.

: Oleg Ushakov, Moscow

Morcheka: Restoration works
I must say that for me personally, it wasnt the Internet where the whole unsavory story began, but directly under Morcheka, on a hot September day, when reaching to the wall and getting ready for the route, I caught a glimpse of fixed ropes braced the ground up to the top of the wall, directly across the central tower

Author: Aleksey Shelkhakov (Morcheka first ascentionist) Crimea

OUT OF REALITY (Dodo Kopold)
Another long day. Michal went in bed at 2 AM. Sorry, not in bed but in haulbag. And I sat on a small ledge where sparrows rest.

Autor: Dodo Kopold, Slovenia

Khane Valley Expedition 2012
Write from Skardu after returning from Khane Valley Expedition 2012

Author: Nikolay Petkov, Bulgaria
Pictures: N.Petkov, D.Boyanov, M.Michaylov.

Zhenja Kazbekova (15). Grande Grotta, Kalymnos, 8a+ Onsight. Portfolio
Zhenja Kazbekova (15). Grande Grotta, Kalymnos, 8a+ Onsight. Portfolio

Photo Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

The First Russian Route on Trango Tower
In august 2011 a new route on Trango Tower (Nameless Tower) wall was put up by the Moscow Mountaineering and Climbing Federation team during the expedition to Karakoram. This is the first Russian route on this mountain

Author: Alex Yurkin, Moscow


Indian Creek, Utah, USA. Portfolio

uthor: Anna Piunova, Mountain.Ru

Lost after 08 May 2011 when climbing Peak Tulagi (7059 m) in Nepal, Himalaya Information update.
Two experienced climbers from Belorussia are lost in Nepal while ascending unclimbed peak Tulagi (7059 m), located in area of peaks Manaslu (8163 m). Their last radio was on 08 May 2011, about 2 pitches from the summit.

Info source:Alexey Pushkovsky Minsk, Belorussia)

DGPS Survey of Shkara
In Summer 2010 duo Peter Schon (Austria) and Boris Avdeev (Russia) climbed Mt.Shkhara (5193 m) the top of Bezengi wall via rarely visited route from South (5B Russian grade, max. 4 UIAA, max 55 degree snow). The climb was started from anscient Georgian Ushguli village, UNESCO heritage site.

: Peter Schoen, Republik Österreich

Zalia is 6 y.o. Birthday!
Once a week shes deal with speech therapist. She will be back to hospital in March. The speech therapists, psychologists and masseurs will take care of her for a month or more.

Salavat Rakhmetov

Antarctica. Ulvetanna. Interview with Valery Rozov
The idea is as follows: 3 different persons set on an expedition, each having different tasks (though the target is shared), each getting own mosaic of recollections and feelings. We will try to collect the mosaic to get the complete picture.

Interview with Valery Rozov
Photos by: A. Ruchkin, Predrag Vuckovich & Thomas Senf ().

The first ski descent from Peak Pobeda East (6782 m)
Foto by Peter Schoen

: Peter Schoen

Climbs we did in Greenland
We are slowly adjusting back to the normal life after 3 months of madness in Greenland... This was definitely one of our wildest adventure so far. But don't worry we are already thinking of wilder things :)

Author Nicolas Favresse, Belgium

Photos by Peter Schon

Author page
Peter Schon,
Styria, Austria & Vancouver, Canada

Author: Peter Schon, Styria, Austria & Vancouver, Canada

Good buy Chloe In memoriam Chloe Graftiaux
In memoriam Chloe Graftiaux

Arco Rock Master. Another Side of Competition

uthor: Anna Piunova, Mountain.Ru

Ukrainian National expedition Ukraine Makalu 2010 in brief
The team was divided into three groups working on the route in 5-7 day shifts. While one group was pushing the upper end of the fixed ropes further, the other two groups were involved in load carrying to high camps.

uthor: Yuri Kruglov

Zalia. Help Salavat Rakhmetov's Daugther
This morning Rakhmetov's family came back home.

Marina Kopteva. First Female Solo Ascent on Marcheka, 981m, Crimea
Ukranian Marina Kopteva (one of two CIS female climbers we ever have) completed the first female solo ascent on Marcheka (981m, Crimea) via Center (6, VI+, C2, 335m).

Cholatse. New route

: Valera Shamalo, SPb

Greenland climbing expedition success for Ragni di Lecco
Simone Pedeferri, Matteo Della Bordella, Lorenzo "Pala" Lanfranchi and Richard Felderer have just returned from a successful expedition to the relatively unexplored eastern Greenland where there carried out 5 first ascents. Simone Pedeferri talks about the expedition.

Author: Fabio Palma, Italy, Ragni Lecco

Siguniang Shan 2009

Author: Andrej Murishev, Moscow

Terskey Alatoo. Central Tjan-Shan's Map

: Alexandr Kovsherev, Almaty

Nemjung South Face Report
We couldn't climb on Manaslu because of lack of acclimatisation and too much snow...we had a long 12 day period of rest due to very bad weather, but in the end managed to put up what we believe is a new route on the south face of Nemjung.

Author: Christian Trommsdorff, France

Eruption of Dawn

Author: Mike Reyfman,

Unknown and fine Dagestan

: Ivan Kozorezov, Moscow


Photo: Miroslav Brtko, Slovenia

Free Ascent of "Quinto Imperio" 550m 8b Naranjo, Spain
After solve all the boulder moves and get in touch with the upper exposure part, we get excited and completely forgot about the weather that was getting worst and the 300 meters of rappelling that separate us from the base camp.

Author: Leopoldo Faria, Spain

I saw as clouds gave birth

Author: Alexsandr Stahov, Kazahstan

It is one of the highest (7546) and most popular peaks of The Pamirs. Its name can be translated from Turkic as Father of the icy mountains. This peak occupies the third place in altitude in the Pamirs after Kongur (7719) and Kongur-Tube (7595).

Author: A. Lebedev, Moscow

Again 2 grade route or Exotic alpinism in the Lost World (Cape Aya.)
3 routes, described by Sevastopol alpinists, we didn't try because of too destroyed and dangerous terrain. We didn't find any more information, so we decided to ascend the Western part of the massif which is located to the left from the couloir, to the west from Small Kokia-Kaya mountain.

Author: Dmitry Podgorny, Yalta

First free ascent of the Japanese Diretissima on the Eiger North Face
The two professional Alpinists, Robert Jasper (Germany) und Roger Schali (Switzerland) managed to finally freeclimb, redpoint, the famous "Japanese Route" on the Eiger North Face. The so called "Super-Diretissima" (5.13b/8a) is now the most challenging and demanding route through the famous 1800m North Face.

Author: Robert Jasper

Mshatka: triangle on the right, by the center of the eastern bastion
Between the central and The eastern bastions, In the upper part of the wall two long slanting interrapted ledges with trees make the big slanting corner, well seen from the road, named Triangle. The main part of the the route goes along the right interrupted ledge, forming Triangle.

Author: Anatoliy Brunza, Dnepropetrovsk

Arco. Rock Master 2009. Day 1. Lead Onsight & Men's Bouldering

Photo: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

Big Wall Free Climbing in Baffin Island
Our main target was to climb around Mt Asgard, which is one of the craziest looking mountains I have ever seen ( Two cylindrical towers with super steep and long walls all around).

Author: Nicolas Favresse

On the left side of the western buttress, 4B (Forossky Kant)
The western part of the massif and the most difficult South-eastern walls are divided by the big corner, downward from the plateau which is named Green because of the moss covering it. The route starts near the base of the couloir, coming down the Green corner.

Author: Anatoly Brunza, Dnepropetrovsk

Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc

Author: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

The first ski down from Lyap Nazar (5990 m), Pamir.
Climbing and the first skiing down Pik Afzalsho Olimov (Lyap Nazar, 5990 m), Yazgulem Range, in Pamir, via NW Ridge and West Couloir (50 degrees +).

Author: Peter Schoen (Austra-Canada)

Small Kilse
Small Kilse Peak is situated in nearly 6 kilometers to the north-east from Foros village. It has altitude about 600 m above sea level and 220 m from its foot and is well seen from the road Yalta Sevastopol near Sanatornoe village. It has more than 10 routes from 1-st to 6-th grade.

uthor: Anatoliy Brunza, Dnepropetrovsk


: Andrej Zenkov, Moscow

Greatness of the Himalayas

Photo: Ivan Kozorezov, Moscow

Present on February 23
Crimea... We had three holidays 2 days to drive and 1 day to climb short 5-grade route "Three Cornices" on Small Kilse mountain.

Author: Alexey Osipov, Sergey Tretyakov, Max Kostrov

Brief information about the route of Kazakhstan team on Cho Oyu (8,201m)
The weather didnt improve in the morning, but under the shelter of this bergshrund, which slanted up and right, we could catch hold of the rocks. We followed them till 7,300m, then traversed to the right under the serac level.

Author: Denis Urubko, Kazahstan

Ruchkin&Mikhailov. Carte Blanche. Pt. 6,134 m
No connection (but we fetched our phone all the same), no observers. A cook and a translator didnt know what mountain we were climbing. No porters. We loaded like donkeys gear for different kinds of terrain, warm clothes.

Author: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
Photo: Ruchkin&Mikhailov

Small Kilse Buroon 638m
The route goes along the left side of the wall to the big pine-tree, and then it goes through the middle grade rocks to the pine-tree on the summit. Crux section is the lower part (100m 6 3), then it isn't more difficult then 5 . Like all the routes od Small Kilse, it looks well from the road, but the nearer you come the more questions appear

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Serik: Style, beauty, technique and using inertia of moves is something that goes best with practical demonstration. And observation, analyzing, learning rules, and seeing the essence of climbing is an important talent.

Yulia Abramchuk. Speaking to bouldering World Champion of 2009
MR: Which is the role of luck at a level of a WC?

Y..: Its like Mike Shalagin said: one day your star would shine, and another day come heavy clouds:-)

Author: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
Translation Svet

Alex Rubtsov. Interviewing the 2009 bouldering World Champion
.R.: Semifinal has been hardest. It just proved to be generally hard, both morally, and physically.

Author: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
Translation Svet

On the left side of the south-eastern face and the western buttress ( (Feathers), 5 *)
The route starts 60 m to the right from the western buttress and goes along the lower part by the abrupt and nail face, and in the upper part it goes along the western buttress (Kant), going there through the chain of several breaks, called feathers (R0: 200 m, 20-30 0, / ).

Mshatka: Triangle, Triangle by the center
Between the central and The eastern bastions, In the upper part of the wall two long slanting interrapted ledges with trees make the big slanting corner, well seen from the road, named Triangle. The middle part of the route goes along the left ledge, forming the Triangle.

Mshatka routs: by the second buttress of the western part of the massif, by the left edge of the central bastion
This is one of the most popular routes among the middle qualification alpinists.

Forossky Kant: On the right side of the south-eastern face, 5 , On the eastern ledge, 2B
The route goes on the left side of the wide corner, which vertilally cuts all the wall. The corner turnt into the lowering of the ridge between the summits Forossky Kant and Mshatka-Kaya it is a relative border between them.

Forossky Kant: The left rhomb, The right rhomb
From the road near the alpinist camps under Forossky Kant move upwards and to the left firstly along the path, then by the slide-rocks (R0: 150 m, 20-30 0, /).

Forossky Kant: by the red corner of the south-eastern face, in the center of the south-eastern face through the cornice
In its upper part the route goes along the mossy corner, named (Red corner), situated to the right from the western buttress.

Forossky Kant: by the western buttress (kant) on the left (kant po kantu), 5, by the western buttress (kant) on the right, 5a
The route starts at the base of the couloir, descending from the Green corner. Firstly move upwards by the slide-rocks and easy rocks, to the abrupt face. In its left part find a vertical crack (R0: 200 m , 30 0 , / ).

Forossky Kant: On the left side and on the right side of the Green corner
The western part of the massif and the most difficult South-eastern walls are divided by the big corner, downward from the plateau which is named Green because of the moss covering it. The route starts near the base of the couloir, coming down the Green corner.

Kush Kaya Routs: Parabola, Balalaika
Route starts just under the " Integral " (see the deion of " " ( Integral ), V grade ).

Kush Kaya Routs: Big chimney, Integral
From R5 ascend 40 m along the cracks till the ledge with a tree R6. From the tree go to the right by the wall over the ridge and then go along the corner to the direction of an overhanging stone.

Kush Kaya Routs: Right trouser lag, "" (Bashkirovskaya)
Approach to the big deciduous tree, growing near the beginning of the big break (near "Right trouser lag")(R3) see in the deion of the route In the center through the bushes" (II-III grade).

Kush Kaya Routs: Egg, the left trouser lag
From the tree, growing under "the left trouser lag", go to the left along the ledge go to the red rocks (R5).

Mshatka-Kaya (Strelka) (5)
This well-known route was sent long ago. Nowadays, many bolts become worthless, but the route is yet climbable.

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko ("Odessit") Odessa

The oldest routs of Kush-Kaya Mittens
Route starts from " " (second football ground), from the gray cup . Ascent to R4 point is possible by the following routes: " " ( V grade ), " " ( V grade ), In the center through the bushes ( II-III grade )

Author: Valentin Solomentcev, Moscow,

FA 6. Cape Aya, May 2007
The wall of cape Aya peak is the longest one in Crimea with a half-kilometer height. There are several routes on the main part of the face. All of them are more than 5B grade.

Author: Sergey Dashkevich, Yekaterinburg
Photo of: Sergey Dashkevich, Eugene Novoseltcev

Route "Gates" on Cape Aya
The route Gates is called so because of peculiar cornices in the middle of the massif. You should climb between these cornices and even climb on the right one.

Author: Kisluy V.V., Oleynik S.V.

Melloblocco. Val Masino

: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

Routes on Cape Aya. The Lost World
From the main gorge come by easy rocks to the first abrupt ascent with an inclined (45 degrees) pine-tree on it (80-90 m I grade). In the end of the section turn to the Northern part of the ridge to the ledge with a juniper (photo 2). R7.

Author: Streltcov S., Sevastopol

Birth of the route "LIN" 6b+, 220m
In the first day of preparing the route 2 pitches were made, that was 90 meters of the wall. On the second day they made 2 and a half pitches, 100 meters more were done!

Author: M.S. Panferova, Yalta
Photo: . Demin, Simeiz

Small Kilse, the route " - " (variation) 3, F5b (5m 6a), 160m
From the upper road go firstly along the path, going to Kievsky couloir*, then go straight upwards by the stone-slipping slope to the wall. Ascend to the rocky jut under the central part of the wall.

Author: Maxim Kostrov

Crimea2006, May-June. New routes
Merdven-Kayasu mountain, but many people say that it is Uarch-Kaya, but it doesnt matter, the main thing is that two new routes appeared here.

Author: Igor Savelyev, Sevastopol

The route: (Latvia - the dance of balance)
The route is equipped with permanent belay points, it goes along the beautiful solid face, with lots of free climbing.

Author: Andrew Vedenmeer, Yalta

Uarch-Kaya The route "Red Fox"
The route, equipped by permanent belay points , goes along the beautiful solid face and allows to enjoy free climbing. It has very quick and comfortable approach to the face, not difficult climbing (for good climbers), fully bolted.

Shambala 2B (with the last pitch 3)
In the left part of the nail walls, there is a slanting, ascending right to left overgrown crack . belay with bolts.

Author: : Nadtochey Sergey (Terrorist ), Simferopol

Forossky Kant The route "Between rhombs" 5B, F7a, 270m
The route goes along the central face, between the right and the left Rhombs.

The material sent by: Igor Savelyev, Dnepropetrovsk

Uarch-Kaya The route NEW "Shambala"
The route "Shambala" was sent last year by Sergey Nadtochey. Because of the new route "Red Fox" situated nearby, the main (central) part of the route "Shambala" was changed, with Author's agreement.

17th Piolets dOr 22nd to 25th April 2009 Chamonix-Mont-Blanc - Courmayeur The results of the Piolets dOr
During four days of random meetings in cafes or at the bottom of cliffs, the participants discovered a shared spirit of an international mountaineering that preserves exchanges, partnership and style.

Forossky Kant. Routes "Of the green corner"
In the end of January we (Alexander Lavrinenko and Sergey Pugachev) send the new route in the left part of Forossky Kant, by the left edge of "The Green corner". The route looks so logically, that it's surprisingly why it hasn't been sent before. In the corner there are human traces, but I don't know if is passed up to the top, at least there are 2 descent loops.

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Small Kilse, the route "8 m (On March 8)" 5, F7a, 150m
From the upper road go firstly by the path, going into Kievsky couloir*, then straight upwards by the stone-slipping slope to the wall. Ascend on the rocky jut under the central part of the wall.

Author: Maxim Kostrov

Small Kilse "m" (" (lance)") 5, VI, A1, 250m
R1-R2 (can be divide to 2 sections because of bend) 20m till the tree - V 2m pendulum to the left (though there is no bolt already) - VI 10m - IV+

Author: Alexey Osipov

Small Kilse "Three cornices" Yuri Lishaevs route 6, VI, A2, 220m
The route starts from the left part of the "mould", in 30- 40 meters to the left from ""("m")

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Forossky Kant The alpinist routes Part 2
The western part of the massif and the most difficult South-eastern walls are divided by the big corner, downward from the plateau which is named Green because of the moss covering it. The route starts near the base of the couloir, coming down the Green corner.

Author: Anatoly Brunza, Dnepropetrovsk

Mshatka-Kaya. (Red fall) (5)
The route passes to the right from the central bastion Mshatka- Kaya . The route is rarely visited. The beginning coincides with the route Triangle on the left.

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko ("Odessit") Odessa

Cape Aya. Face with altitude 394,2m in the Northern end of the amphitheatre of " The Lost World
Beginning of the route goes along the ridge of the buttress, which encases the Western border of the Main couloir (corner).

Author: Streltcov S., Sevastopol

Route (Uhanovsky)
Peak with altiyude 501,6 m is a part of the plateau moved by the plastic ground.

Author: Streltcov S., Sevastopol

Crimea. South-Western face of Cape Aya.. Route " (Stregor)"
There is yet no grade, only the deion of its sections. As far as it isn't possible now to make the continuation of the route till the top of the wall, and there have already been the ascents, we give the deion to everyone.

Author: Andrew Jernokleev, Moscow

Zamok, the route " (Sokolinuy)" 6 , F7a+ (or VI, A3), 370m - Crimea
The route " (Sokolinuy)" was firstly sent in 1985 by Y. Lishaev ("Fantik"). Line of the route beautifully and practically by the center crosses the vertical wall of Zamok

Author: Max Kostrov and Olga Kostrov

"Sokolinuy" route
In many free climbable places AID is needed, pulling bushes and cleaning the cracks from soil (after every pitch of the first bastion all the clothes, gear and face of the leader were dirty, and looked like a valorous miner).

Author: Poltavetc Eugene and Sipavin Valentin, Kharkov

Ak Kaya in winter
For the first time in recent 10 years Ukraine organized a winter championship, and I decided that it was time to ascend Ak-Kaya. Though, competitors chose higher and longer routes, but we had first ascent, and winter is a lottery "sent / not sent". fgdfgfd

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Zamok 3 popular routes
Zamok Peak is situated in the western part of the Southern Coast, to the north-east from Foros village. Its altitude is 650 m and it is about 370 m from its foot, well seen from the road Yalta - Sevastopol.

Author: Anatoliy Brunza, Dnepropetrovsk

Zamok The route Riglos
The beginning is same with the Cave, but then climb to the right, go upwards to the bush(10m), then difficult climbing on Riglos starts.

Author: Igor Savelyev (SAVA) Foros Dnepropetrovsk

Zamok Deion of the route (Chapa)
( (Chapa), capa in Spanish means bolt).

Author: Igor Savelyev (SAVA) Foros Dnepropetrovsk
Information from Vladimir Pestrikov, Dnepropetrovsk

(Blue Wave) V grade
The route starts under the "upper level" of the rock in its right part under the long black spot on the wall. Ascend 15 meters to the direction of the crack with a tree and then go upwards 15 meters along the crack to the area comfortable for belay on the top of the break - R1.

Mshatka-Kaya The route (Cascade) 5, 6b, A3, 370m
Approach: go upwards from the fork Church-House under Kilse along the path, then move by easy rocks to the ledge. From the ledge go upwards, to the left edge of the "mould". Move by the left edge of the "mould", then move by the buttress, without turning to the left, to the ledge where R5 is.

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Taras Tcushko, Odessa

Routes on Cape Aya. The Lost World
This small piece of the seashore less than kilometer long is accessible only from the sea, because it is surrounded by difficult rocks (by the way, one risky descent variant is described in this article).

Author: Streltcov S., Sevastopol

At first we had 5 pitches of very easy climbing by the ledges overgrown with grass maybe in summer it is possible to climb without belay and fixed ropes, but that time it was slippery, with snow areas, we carried loads, so we had to fix line up.

Author: Valery Shamalo, SPb

XXVII Russian Championship in alpinism, category of first ascents. Combined team of Rostov region
Continuing bad weather increased the snow height and difficulties began already between the camp and the face. Yesterday party of two Podlesny-Petyakshev was ascending to the route breast deep in fresh snow for 2,5 hours instead of 15-20 minutes.

Information about the first ascent on the Left edging of Stolb western face (SW peak of Tsar's Throne)
We ascended Stolb along the left edging of the Western face. The route is beautiful and logical. We didn't find a note on the summit - it is a giant snow drift on the peak, and we couldn't find any sign, so we made our own one.

Small Kilse "Three cornices" Yuri Lishaevs route 6, VI, A2, 220m
The route starts from the left part of the "mould", in 30- 40 meters to the left from " "(" m ")

Deion made by: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

"Kush-Kaya mountain translated from Turkic means "Bird's mountain", it is situated above Batiliman and Laspi bay on the 30 th km of Sevastopol Yalta road. Due to Kush-Kaja, which protects this area from northern winds, Batiliman is famous for its warm microclimate.

Ascents alone the Caucasus, Uzunkol, 1999
In the morning I started to pack. After nearly a pitch I met group Djaparidze. They offered me to bypass them. After 3 pitches I was on the grassy ledges with streams, grass and butterflies.

Author: Alexander Maximenya, Minsk

Route fifteen
Winter tactics was used in the ascent, in its base were comfortable nights, and working out the route was made from them. A tent-platform is moved from one safe and convenient place to another while ascending. This tactics allows to improve ascent safety, because party of two can descend along the lines to their tent any time, or to call party of four for help.

Author: Valery Balezi Krasnoyarsk

Kush-Kaya, route (Through the foot) 4, F4c (5m F6a), 520m
Ascend 20 m by the corner, then go to the right 45 degrees angle by easy rocks about 110 meters to the yellow wall in the base of the corner to the left of the chimney.

The deion is made by: Maxim Kostrov

Crimea. Mshatka-Kaya. First ascents Resume of first half of 2007
We had an idea to pass the big cornice to the right from (Red fall), on the fhotos a crack was seen in the center of the cornice. Looking closely, it turned to be not a crack, but a trace of fallen patch. We said goodbye to the beautiful idea and ascended to the summit.

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Cape Aya. Route "Gates" 5B+ grade
May be, it is the longest wall route in Crimea. 14 pitches, climbing is mainly by slabs on friction. The route can be send in a day, but in autumn or unstable weather a night can be foreseen.

Author: Vladimir Troyanker

The route of Yuriy Lishaev " (Through the cave)" 6, VII+, A2, 360m
On November 17 Vladimir Mogila with Alexey Jilin (Odessa) finisheh "the repair" of the route of Yuriy Lishaev ("Fantik") " (Through the cave)".

Author: Vladimir Mogila, Odessa

Life on abscissa axis
The fourth ascent of Alexander Ruchkin's route to Free Korea Peak, 6 grade.

Author: Ivan Pugachev, Bishkek

14 routes by the Northern face of Free Korea Peak
Free Korea Peak is an adornment of Askai gorge ( Kirghiz ridge. Tien Shan ). About 14 routes go along its Northern face. Many of them can compete with the most difficult technical routes of Tien Shan, Alps and the Caucasus .

Forossky Kant
The most popular peak in Crimea , Forossky Kant is situated in the South-Western part of the Crimean coastline, near Foros village.

Author: Anatoly Brunza, Dnepropetrovsk

Skiing on pik Chetyreh, 6230m and pik Korzhenvskaya, 7105m

Photo: Peter Schon, Austria

Kongur (Historical- geographical essay, March 2008)
Kongur (7719), the highest peak of the Pamirs, is situated on Kongur Tagh ridge, which is a part of Kongurmuztagh the highest one in Kashgar mountains in the Chinese Pamirs. Kongur Tagh Ridge extends in latitudinal direction to the South from Gezgaryi gorge.

Author: Andrew Lebedev, Moscow

Uarch-Kaya, the route (Carnaval) 4B, (10m 6), 270m
Approach: from the forester's house under Kilse-Buroon go 3,5 m along the upper road Chortova Lestnica (Devil's stairs). Near the second bridge (from the forester's house) you can leave your car.

The deion made by: Alexey Abramov, Moscow

The route was sent in autumn 2001 by the team from Odessa (Aleksey Jilin, Sergey Kalachev, Alexander Lavrinenko,Vladimir Mogila).

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Shaan-Kaya (one more forgotten mountain)
Shaan-Kaya is situated in Alupka region. It isn't part of the Main ridge, but is moved forward to the sea, before Alupka wall. Wall difference is about 250 m. In its central part the wall overhangs. It has 6 routes (Note: on December 2001 there were 8 routes passed), all 6 grade.

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Mshatka-Kaya Alpinist routes deion
Mshatka-Kaya is situated in the south-western part of the Crimean coast, to the north-west from Sanatornoe village, and it is well seen from the road Sevastopol-Yalta.

Author: Anatoliy Brunza, Dnepropetrovsk

Mizhirgi. Northern ridge. January 2009
When I was in Bezengi for the first time, on the approach to Warm Corner I noticed a severe and in the same time very elegant ridge, leading to the top of a huge ice-and-rock massif, rising above 5000 meters.

Author: Viktor Koval, St. Petersburg

Route "Fly down"
Was ascended by A. Zakrevsky in autumn 1993. Sasha was under the impression of ascents in the mountains of Wales, where we spent a month together, and went to the mountains almost every day.

Author: Yuri Kruglov

Samodeds Route. 5B (TD+), VII-, A2 (6-7 hours)
Ascend to the wall before the most distant from Kush-Kaya big crack. The reference point is a cascade of 2 cornices with brown splits.

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa


Photo: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

Cape Aya. Wall 498,1 m high, dividing Kazan-Dere and The lost world Route "Pourquoi pas?"
Both variations start from the water. So you should observe the recommendations gave in Oba-na 2001, Pirahna 2002 on Arfen peak route deions.

Author: Streltcov S., Sevastopol

Treugolnik (Triangle)
Treugolnik (Triangle) mountain ( 1000 m altitude) is located above Parkovoe village, 2 km to the west from Morcheka. The wall has western orientation, so it is hardly seen from the lower road.

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Crimea in May. Note for the ascenders
Next May vacations draw near, and caravans of active rest lovers drive to the South.

Authors: A.I. Shelhakov, V.A. Popov

Speleo explorations in Crimea during recent years
Crimea has historically been a Mecca and a founder of native speleology.

Deep Water Solo on cape Aya
We gathered on July 21 on the Embankment of Balaklava. There, on the berth, 160 liters of water were delivered because there are no water springs near our future camp.

Author: Puzankov Sergey

"Machombo" (6A, VI, A3, 335m) or Morcheka 2002
The idea of the route has been changed a lot during the ascent preparation. Primary plan was to pass Bodnik's route, straighten it through the solid, overhanging in its lower part, slab (boulge).

: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Unknown routes on Zamok
R0-R1: from the tree go upwards through easy destroyed rocks 15 m, then go upwards along the crack, difficult climbing to the overhang 20 m, then AID by cracks 10 m to the belay (3 bolts) IV, 3, 45m

: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Through 3 Crimean canyons
You can climb without nuts, but we lacked loops. Dynamic rope is also a luxury climbing is easy.

: Savchinsky Bogdan, Povoroznuk Ira, Kiyko Kostya, Kiev

Shaan-Kaya, Crimea. Hiperborea" route (Yarechevsky-Marunich) 6, 5.11d (F 7a), A3+, 300m, >100
The route goes along the right side of the Southern wall of Shaan-Kaya, in its upper part turning to the left, to the center. As a reference point you can use a big overhanging corner, seen even from the lower road. If you trace a line from the root of the corner perpendicularly to the foot, it will show the start.

: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Route "Musi-Pusi" 2 grade
The route goes along the southern buttress of Hergiani rock, just opposite the route Surprise. Approach: go along the upper old road to the Devil's Stairs, then 400- 500 m to the east, to a small rock near the road, and 100- 130 m more to the note Crimea made with green paint.

Author: Taras Ivankov, Simferopol, Ukraine

Safety problems on Crimean ascents
Alpinism is closely related to the falls. But fallings can be different. Nobody is secured against occasional break or stone blow. There is no 100% reliability. But the paradox is that people usually get wounded not because of objective reasons, but on account of their own muddle-headedness.

: Sergey Nadtochey, Simferopol

Kastropol wall
Kastropol wall is situated on the Main ridge of Crimean mountains above Kastropol village. From the quarry under Morcheka go to the west along the upper road for about 2.5 km .

In the evening a snowstorm began, it was time to think about the night. There are 3 ledges on all the route, all of them inclined, covered with ice and stones.

Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Simone Moro Announces his New Winter Project: Makalu
SIMONES PASSION FOR EXPLORATION has led him from his playground in the Italian Dolomites to the highest places on our earth. He is world renowned for his all round prowess as an alpinist - on rock, on ice, mixed and at altitude.

Experience on Kastropol wall
All we heard about it can be said in few words: much destroyed, overhanging wall with rarely visited old routes.

Author: Alexander Shelhakov
Photo: Alexander Kuzmitcky

Au-Dag from the ancient times to our days
Au-Dag is covered with legends. In ancient times the mountain caused the sacred feeling of nature's power. According to an old legend, a giant bear who lived here became a stone, trying to drink the sea and to stop fugitives.

: Eugene Shmidt, Yalta

Kastropol wall. Illusion route or 20 years later F7b, 235m 10-14.10.2005
New modern, bolted route Illusion is made only for free climbing lovers.

: I. Saveljev (Simferopol)

Indian Creek. Moab. Utah.

Author: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

First ascent of the Western face K2 peak 8611 m. Expedition of the national Russian alpinist team.
Route of the national Russian alpinist team goes along the center of the Western face abrupt rocky bastion. No one has ever tried to ascend K2 peak by the Western face.

How we got tipsy on Angarka!
This weekend we had free Sunday, so Maxim and I decided to furrow the spaces of Angarka. The road was nice: sunny, without mosquitoes, the blackberry grew, that's why we were in fighting spirit and decided to climb something interesting.

: Dmitry Spiridonov, Simferopol

Sickle and Three on the Angarskaya wall
Angarskaya wall isn't popular among climbers few even know that it has about 10 routes 2-5 grades. Mainly climbers know only Acrofobia a multipitch route (5A) made by V. Ivanov in 90-th years, but such trad routes like Sickle (4B) and Three (3A) are unknown.

Author: Spiridonov Dmitry, Martunov Sergey, Simferopol, Crimea

Chelebi, Crimea. Alpinist routes
Chelebi massif is located in the Western part of the Main ridge of Crimean mountains, between Baydarsky gates pass and Ilyas-Kaya mountain. Its height is 200 m, altitude 600 m above sea level. In spite of small height, its central part has 5 routes 5 and 6 grades.

Author: Alexander Litvinenko, Odessa

Bouldering World Cup. Moscow

Photo: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

Ay-Petri route soviet botanists
In comparison with many other climbing regions of Crimea , walls of Ay-Petri are not so popular because of long approaches, though first steps of Crimean alpinism were made here.

Author: Gostev K.V., Yalta
Photo: Voshanov S.V.

Crimea, Ay-Petri, alpinist route 3 B grade
Among the most of Crimean alpinist routes this route is notable for heterogeneous sections. It has sections where you can go on foot in bunches with shortened rope (the most self-confident can go without rope), and there is a difficult climbing section where skills of vertical climbing are needed, as well as making belay.

: Andrei Tihiplav, alpinist club Odessa

First ascent of the South-Western face of Mahindra peak, Himalayas, India September 3 13 2008
The South-Western face of Mahindra peak locks up Thunder glacier. Its foot lies in 10 km from the base camp with altitude difference 1300 m.

International Climbers' Meet. Indian Creek, Utah, USA

Author: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

Spirada. Route to the eastern tower. 5a (6a A2) A. Gilin - C A. Lavrinenko
Spirada mountain is situated above Opolznevoe village. Length of the massif is several kilometers. The most of the massif is 100-150 m high, but several towers are above 200.

Author: Alexandr Lavrinenko, Odessa

To the peak of Aj-Petri
You can receive evidence in the contrast of Ay-Petri climate, if you ascend from Yalta to the plateau, and change hot sub Mediterranean climate to moderate cold, damp climate. The average air temperature in Yalta is +13,1, on Ay-Petri it is +5,9, temperature difference is in these points is about 7,2.

Author: Fomenko Alexandra, Yalta
Photos: Alexander Demin, Simeiz

Chelebi by the left part of the wall
From the belay go upwards to the split 3 m (spits), then traverse to the left along the small ledge with juniper till the vertical corner. Go upwards 8-10 m by the corner (spits), to the small cornice, then go to the left to the wall, a good place for a horizontal climbing bolt.

To the peak of Aj-Petri
The route of this excursion begins from Yalta bus station, then we will drive along the wide Yalta-Sevastopol highway, which streams Yalta on the north-west, then we will turn to the mountain road, the group will visit the peak, then descent to the Southern coast by the aerial ropeway and return to Yalta by minibus.

Author: Fomenko Alexandra, Yalta
Photos: Alexander Demin, Simeiz

New routes on Chelebi
The spectacular place was chosen: a solid boulge under a big red cornice in the right part of Chelebi massif. And though the ethics of ascent was not alpinist at all (the lines were fixed up for the exploring of the alleged route), the route was worthy.

: Yuri Kruglov, Sevastopol

Piranha route 6, VI, A3, 236 m
On our opinion, the route Piranha can be estimated as 6A grade.

Author: Streltcov S, Zakutin A., Sevastopol

Potential climbing regions of Crimea
The region from Sevastopol to Balaklava is an abrupt shore, sometimes 200 m high. This part is much broken up . There are no rocks useful for climbing.

Author: Yury Kruglov, Sevastopol

Angara-Burun along the right part of Angarskaya wall, 4 (90 m, V)
In spite of the fact that Angarskaya wall of Chatur-Dag is well seen from the Angarsky pass, few people know that it has several routes from 2 to 5 grades. In its right part there is a three grade route which is described in Crimean Alps in 1968.

Author: Anatoly Brunza, Ukraine

A jump from Kukurturlu wall
Ive wanted to do an interesting base-project on the Caucasus for a long time. Formerly I spent a lot of time there as an alpinist.

Author: Valery Rozov, Moscow

Experience of Travel Tale
I can't but share my impressions of climbing multi pitch route Travel Tale on Forossky Kant.

Author: Dmitry Kostukov, Sevastopol

Arfen-Chair-Buroon wall above the sea Story about the summit on Rodeo 6A, VI, A3, 300 m.
The wall amazes with its steepness, form accuracy and nail relief. It rises vertically above the sea and dip into the blue deep for more than 80 m. In the right section of the wall there is a huge dark overhang.

Author: Pavel Slusar, Kiev

Two new routes in Karakorum. Pakistan. Summer 2008.
An idea of switching over from 7000 and starting passing new technical routs on 8000 came to my mind last autumn, in 2007, after ascent to Janna in Himalayas.

Author: Valery Babanov, Canada

Guidbook of Treugolnoe
The massif consists of separate walls about 15 m wide and 10-18 m high, mainly overhanging and vertical sections and VERY rich relief (on photos only 2 overhanging sections, I didn't take pictures of verticals, photos aren't sharp because it was twilight and many trees).

Author: Aleksey Tcelishev, Sain-Petersburg

Crimea mountains
The Crimean peninsula is situated in the South-Eastern Europe, it is part of the Ukraine. Its area is 27 000 square kilometers. It is washed by the Black Sea and the See of Azov.

South Caucasus Episodes, part II: The Quest for Skiing the SE face of Kazbek (Mkinvartsveri, 5034 m).
A Story about Skiing Ortsveri NE face (3A), Mkinvartsveri (Mt. Kazbek) SE face (3B), East Ramp (3B) & South Flank (2B) and Maili-Khok West Ridge (2B). May 2008, Georgian side of Caucasus.

: Peter Shoen (Styria, Astria).

Skyang Kangri. To Be Continued
On June, 23, Krasnoyarian team (Nikolay Zakharov leader, climbers: Alexander Mikhaylitsyn, Vladimir Arkhipov, Serguey Cherezov, Eugueniy Beljaev, Igor Loginov, and doctor Alexander Kukharev a.k.a. Bormental) camped at the base of the Skyang Kangri.

: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU.
Photo: E. Belyaev, A. Mikhalitsyn, V. Arkhipov.

Petzl Roc Trip. Zillertal

Author: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

North Venice Climbing Cup. S.Petersburg, 12th June

Author: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

Mkinvartsveri/Kazbek (5033m), April 2006 Partner: Deon Louw

Author: Peter Schon, Austria

Arco Rock Junior

Author: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

BMC International Summer Meet

Photo: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

Trento Film Festival. Russian Mountaineering Party
As emotional aspect of alpinism the main thing especially in solo climbing is that the mountains is the only place to be true to oneself.

Photo Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

The Alps

Author: Peter Schon, Austria

Vacation in Tibet

Author: Anatoliy Moshnikov, Yuriy Koshelenko

Sector 2 (Left side of the Southern Wall)
As for the general appraise of the routes, for some of them we attend your attention the grade difficulty that differs from the generally accepted one.

Authors: Alexander Kuzminsky, Moscow Sergey Nadtochy (Terrorist), Simferopol


Author: Alexander Kalmykov, Moscow - Alma-Ata

Mountains of Altai

Photo: Dmitri Remizov, Moscow

Winter Tayn-Shan

Photo: Aleksandr Kovsherev, Almata

Brothers Alexey and Maxim Tomilov. The Low and Order. M13

There, after clouds, Here on earth

Author: Eugen Sedelnikov, Moscow

Russian iceclimbing championship

Photo: Max Vasilev

Western Caucasus 2007

Author: Mikhail Golubev, Moscow

Russian Extreme Project on Cerro Torre (BASE climbing)

Western Caucasus 2007

Author: Mikhail Golubev, Moscow

Far-Eastern Alpinist Camp Badzhal 2007 Resurrection
We had to pass about 50 kilometers in three days along the channels of the rivers Gerbi and Omot Makit, and came to the sources of the river Ulun.

Author: Igor Savushkin

Russian Extreme Project on Cerro Torre (BASE climbing)
Summit Cerro Torre is cloaked with many legends and myths, telling us about uneasy and sometimes even tragic history of conquering it.


Author: Andris Malasevskis, Latvia

Interview with Julia Abramchuk

The material was prepared by Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

A magnificent view opens up Caucasus

Photo: Vladimir Kopylov, Moscow

The Central Tien-Shan, Mountain Range Western Kokshaal-Too, region of the Peak Kizil-Asker (5842 m)
All the routes to the summit of the region are combined. Summits that are located in a distance from the main range are built of flimsy rocks and present destroyed edges and slopes.

Author: Nikolay Bandalet, Belarus

Crimea, New year 2008. Aj Petri - winter tale

Author: Galina Rasvorova, Moscow

The Chinese Tien-Shan (continuation)
We started the descent, finding out our hooks. The upper ones we passed through but found ourselves on the station below marble zone. From that place there were two ropes for descending using descenders down to the fixed ropes, so we couldnt miss then.

Author: Anatoly Dguly, Moscow, Russia.

Icefall near Tirnauz Caucasus

Author: Mihail Fateev

New route in Jabal Misht, Oman
Next morning began with the problem: alarm clock on our (both) mobiles were set on central European time, so we woke up at 6 instead of 3 oclock in the morning. We ran up to the face and began the climb at about 8:30.

Author: Pavle Kozjek, Ljubljana, Slovenia


Author: Normunds Patmalnieks , Riga, Latvia

Winter 2008. Bezengi. Gestola. Northern Wall. The route of M. Hergiani

Gestola is a very beautiful mountain. Its slender pyramid attracts and summons everyone, who has been to the Bezengiysky canyon. And the route of Hergiani to Gestola is also very beautiful and attractive, and even a little bit defiant. And we couldnt stand up against their beauty

Author: Koval Viktor, Sankt-Petersburg.

Kongde Lho 6187 m Chronics of our ascent along the route had never been passed before
I didnt know how, but I managed to do everything, I climbed to the station and began to breathe, having leaned back on self-belay in the bottom of the angle, covered with ice. I looked downwards and gradually gave the rope.

Author: Vladimir Belousov, Moscow

Fanskie Mountains (aka Fany). Review of the region

In my opinion it is a thankless thing to write about the Fanskie Mountains. They have written a lot about them and the region has become well explored, but nevertheless Ill try. May, this review will become useful for somebody.

Author: Anatoly Dguly, Moscow, Russia.

Trip to Croatia

Apropos, along the nose one of the most powerful routes Spider, went. Level of climbing 8a. They said, it was possible to pass it by free-climbing

Author: Ilya Tchugereev, Moscow.
Photos: Ilya Tchugereev, Shtelmashenko Vladimir, Sergeev Andrew.

Onsight Marathon. Ekaterinburg-Kourovka, Tolstyak (Fat man) cliff. Russian Ice climbing Cup


: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

Trip to Croatia

Once upon in summer, having gathered in our friends country-house, we were taking a decision where we would go in September.

: : Ilya Tchugereev, Moscow
: Ilya Tchugereev, Shtelmashenko Vladimir, Sergeev Andrew

The Chinese Tien-Shan

During walking days we were working for7-12 hours, the relief was mostly slide-rocky, or very difficult ice-snowy, climbing sometimes in crampons, sometime without them.

Author: Anatoly Dguly, Moscow

Beauty of mountains


Andris Malasevskis, Latvia


Author: Konstantin Golubev, Moscow

Technique of the first solo-ascents in the Crimea. How it was
When you are doing solo-ascents, you dont depend on your partner, his schedule of work, choice of the route and level of climbing.

Author: Dmitry Evseev, Simferopol

Peak of Lenin
Further you descent to the glacier of Lenin and go along the path along the glacier, then come to the glacier in its middle stream. Up to the coming to the body of the glacier, the path is rather good.

Author: Maxim Foigel, Krasnodar

Grand Jorasses North Face Expedition
This Project is a continuation of new adventure - a kind of extreme sport that we opened in 2002 and named "B.A.S.E. climbing".
The goal is not just to get to the top (not around but via the line of the future falling), but to do a B.A.S.E. jump from the summit.

Alex Chabot and C in Argentina
Alex Chabot, Romain Pagnoux, Chris Lindner and Phil Maurel in Bariloche, Argentina

Photo: Cedric Larcher, France

Cristal FFME

Author: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

The experience of alpinists in the treatment of COVID-19

Gender in Detente and Disaster: Women Climbers in the Soviet International Pamir Camp 1974

Doyen of Bulgarian mountaineering Georgi Atanasov, Djidji, dies

The white sun of Pytorana

Everest 2020. Alex Txicon back to EBC

Alex Txikon. Everest. The mountain will have the last word

Everest. Alex Txikon: Well go step by step

First Winter Snow Leopards. Mission Complete

Everest. Alex Txikon: Were in Camp 2

Summit team expected in BC today

Ama Dablam. We're gonna stay here for the night

C2 reached on winter Ama Dablam disabled trekkers succeed on Kala Pattar


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