Ukrainian National expedition “Ukraine – Makalu 2010” in brief / English. Adventure / Mountain.RU


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Аuthor: Yuri Kruglov

Ukrainian National expedition “Ukraine – Makalu 2010” in brief

Topo of the route part from ABC – Camp1

Our ABC at 5850

Our Camp 1 at 6250

Our Camp 2 in natural ice cave at 6500

Our Camp 4 at 7400

Alexander Zakolodnyi
leads the crux pitch
of the Paragot pillar at 7700

Duration: 07/04/2010 (arrival to BC) - 23/05/2010 (summit)
Expedition budget: 200000 USD
Route: new line on the SW face joining the W pillar

Team list:

Valentin Simonenko - expedition leader
: Mstislav Gorbenko – expedition leader in Nepal
: Mikhail Zagirnjak - assistant coach
: Igor Bondar - expedition doctor

Yuri Kruglov - team leader
: Serguey Bublik
: Dmirty Venslavovsky
: Vladimir Roshko
: Maksim Perevalov
: Vladimir Klebansky
: Andrew Kyiko
: Alexander Zakolodny
: Pavel Kirichek
: Serguey Pugachev
: Yurij Kilichenko – video operator

Oxygen: no use of bottled oxygen
High altitude porters: no use high altitude porters

Route deion and teamwork

The route can be logically divided into three parts.

1st part - BC (4850) to Camp 2 (6600) - via Slovenian route on S face (Kunaver, 1975)

2nd part - Camp2 (6600) to Camp 4 (7500) - the new line on the SW face. The line goes diagonally up-left via SW face towards the W pillar.

3rd part - Camp 4 (7500) - Summit (8463) - via French route on Western Pillar (Paragot, 1971)

The team was divided into three groups working on the route in 5-7 day shifts. While one group was pushing the upper end of the fixed ropes further, the other two groups were involved in load carrying to high camps. Each group had 2-3 days of rest in the BC after each working shift on the face.

Ropes were fixed all the way up to 7800m. The bottom line of the fixed ropes was at 6000 - in the beginning of the steep ice slopes between ABC and Camp 1. Total length of the fixed ropes used - 3000 m.

Main dates of the climb:

07/04 - Base Camp(4850) at Hillary Base Camp was established
: 09/04 - ABC (5850) was established
: 12/04 - Camp 1 (6200) was established
: 1/04 - Camp 2 (6600) was established
: 21/04 - Camp 3 (7000) was established
: 30/04 - Camp 4 (7500) was established
: 01/05 - our route joined with Western Pillar at 7600
: 02/05 - 13/05 - no activity above Base Camp due to bad weather (very high winds at altitude 7000 and higher)
: 17/05 - Camp 5 (7750) was established
: 23/05 - Summit

Main difficulties

The main technical challenge of the route was the slabby second part of the face from 6200 to 7600 to the left or Slovenian route. This part has never been climbed before. Rock above 6600 is polished, protection is generally bad. There are no ledges suitable for camping except the tiny ledge used for Camp 3. However, no bolts were used except one at Camp 3. The average grade of the second part of the route is 4-5 (UIAA) with one pitch A1-A2. The crux pitch after joining the Wester pillar was at well known A1-A2 30m rock wall at 7700.

Main difficulty experienced by the expedition was the forced 11 days gap in our activity due to high winds on the face (up to 140 km/h). The team had to re-establish almost all high camps. 1 tent was blown out in ABC. Camp 1 tent was partially destroed. Camp3 tent - partially destroyed. Camp 4 tent was completely destroyed. The replacement tent was also destroed after just two days and replaced with the third tent.

Summiting

There were 3 summit attempts (one by each group). Only one group got into the only weather window and managed to get to the summit on 23/04/2010. Descent via normal route was choosen.
Names of the summitters: Sergey Bublik, Dmitry Venslavovsky, Vladimir Roshko

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