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Автор: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
“Hiperborea" route (Yarechevsky-Marunich)
6А, 5.11d (F 7a), A3+, 300m, >100°
History of the ascent and technical details.
The route was started in 80-th by Samoded-Chaplunsky, but they stopped on 150 m (from this point it is possible to swing to Grishenko route ). The route was finished by Yarechevsky-Marunich. In 2000 they made an exploration, passed 100-m overhanging section which, on my opinion, is a crux.
Second ascent of Alexander Lavrinenko ( Odessa ), Alexander Maximenya (Minsk) was made in February 2002. Winter was rather warm, but anyway, the day is short, and this defined our tactics. We decided to fix up as much as we could and then to climb. The matter is that from crux section there is almost no way back because on 1 m ascent you shift to the left almost on half a meter, and overhang isn't small…
We began on November 9 in 9 AM. Just after start it is difficult climbing for about 15 m, there is 1 bolt, small friends are good. Then AID began, but it can be free climbed. There is an overhanging crack about 5 m, 2 bolts. Then – difficult traverse to the right, 5 m to the corner (sky hook, bolts). 5 m go by the corner to belay (bolt + nuts).
First pitch starts along a small gully on the border of overgrown with ivy and clear rocks. From it go to the right on the slab, here first bolt is. Then go along the logical way till the well-seen destroyed ridge. Then go upwards and to the right ( 6b+ ) or swing to the right crack and AID till the belay – bolt on the inclined slab R1.
Then Maximenya goes. 2 nd pitch is much more difficult, it becomes overhanging. In 10 m there is an overhanging crack, AID on bolts and small stoppers, then the mysterious bolt line. Up to 5 m between the bolts, AID on “hatchets” and relief sky hooks, bolts from Samoded. Belay is under the cornice (2 bolts).
From the deion of the first ascenders (Yarechevsky-Marunich): Second pitch starts with force climbing 6C through the overhang along the crack till the bolt, and then along the old bolts, with sections of difficult climbing (7A). The line goes to the cornice with a good bolt on its wall – R2 belay.
Third pitch is like the second one, but in the upper part it slightly inclines. Enter the corner on sky hooks, then climbing, in the corner there is a surprise – no crack, accurate climbing to the belay (2 bolts)
From the deion of the first ascenders (Yarechevsky-Marunich): Then go upwards and to the right to the overhanging boulge. Then through hard AID with places of climbing (up to 7A) till the slab which is on the right from the root of the corner, here the belay is on 2 bolts. R3
February 10. While ascending we got tired a bit, but woke up. Maximenya climbed the corner. 5 m from the belay it is difficult climbing, bad belay, than a crack appears but the corner begins to overhang. He used AID mainly, several meters climbed. Belay is in the upper section of the corner on 2 bolts. There is a note on the bolt: “middle is better than top”. It sounds ominously.
From the deion of the first ascenders (Yarechevsky-Marunich): Go through the vertical destroyed rocks to the corner, and there, combining AID with difficult (6C) climbing, reach the bend. This place is the middle of the route. This is marked by a specific control note on the bolt. R4.
Then about 15 m by the corner, climb a bit, and again AID, overhangs much. Then go upwards and to the right, to the slab through the overhang. 3 bolts, then change, climb to the ledge, where belay is. The ledge is good, it is possible to spend night for 2 people, but in the sitting position. Note on the bolt says: “Armchairs and sofas must be comfortable”.
From the deion of the first ascenders (Yarechevsky-Marunich): Then go upwards along the corner, then to the right on its external site. Go along the destroyed rocks with sky hooks to the ledge. It is the sole place where you can stand or sit. It is also the last belay where you can try to return. R5.
It was 12.20, nothing more to fix, and too late to end. Decided to descend and rest.
Day third. At 8 AM we were on the ledge. Maximenya climbed. First 10 m was a good corner, then a cornice with difficult AID and risk of falling on the inclined area. After the cornice there is a bolt, then go upwards and to the left along the narrow crack (thin bolts, Rurps, Ironhawk Cassin, sky hooks ). Belay is on 2 bolts, once more a mysterious note: “mandarin ducks bring happiness in love ”.
From the deion of the first ascenders (Yarechevsky-Marunich): From the ledge climb to the left and upwards till the overhang, which is climbed straightly, then difficult AID along the crack till the break in the well seen overhanging corner. R6.
First meters of the next pitch bring me some free climbing (5- 7 m ) and I am in the corner. It overhangs > 100°, turns to the left . AID on hatchets and small petals . Ironhawk s are working hard but hold . In the end of the corner there is a bolt. Then again go upwards and to the left, bolts sometimes occur. After 25 m rope stops because of many bends . I saw a good bolt, where belay can be made, but it was darkening, and I climbed more. The relief becomes more rich, I used friends and stoppers, sky hooks (there were 2 bolts) and I was in the overhanging corner, 10 m till the bend, there was a good bolt. When it was about 2 m till the bend, I the rope was off, and I placed a nut and 2 bolts.
Using sky hooks, go upwards by nail rocks till the corner. Bypassing moving blocks, go upwards. Next belay is on the pine-tree.
From the deion of the first ascenders (Yarechevsky-Marunich): ...then go to the right to the solid rocks, to the slab, then to the ledge with a tree. R8.
30- 40 m from the pine-tree and you are on the summit.
From the deion of the first ascenders (Yarechevsky-Marunich . Go l ittle to the right and upwards by simple blocky rocks to the summit.
Recommendations for the ascenders:
In long day, I guess, it is possible to reach the ledge under the big corner, and next day to finish. All the belays are quite comfortable, bolts with diameter 12, length 50 mm . Safety of bolts with 8 mm diameter is doubtful.
Gear: thin bolts, Rurps, best of all Ironhawk Cassin (we had 3, but desired more), sky hooks for the relief and holes. Camalots (from micro to №3,5) will simplify the ascent, but friends can also be used. Climbing skills will save a lot of time.
Time spent (without ascents and descents by worked out distances) – 24 hours.
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