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Author: Vladimir Troyanker

Cape Aya. Route "Gates" 5B+ grade

Cape Aya.
Photo of Alexy Osipov©
height of the wall ~ 440m
route length~ 550m
average slope ~ 72°

May be, it is the longest wall route in Crimea . 14 pitches, climbing is mainly by slabs on friction. The route can be send in a day, but in autumn or unstable weather a night can be foreseen.

Go from the sanatorium about 1 km along the good path to Cape Aya . In 100 m from the end of path turn to the wall. Start is near a small ( 4 m ) crack. Then go to the right and upwards through 4-5 grade walls about 2.5 pitches till the head of “crocodile”, here bolt block is.

You can also start the route 50 m to the right along the crack just upwards – it is more difficult.

Route "Gates"
© Photo of Alexy Osipov
From the block go 30 m upwards till the small ledge with old bolts (R4). Then go upwards till the ledge with a tree (R5). In the middle of the ledge there is a crack going upwards. The right part of the crack is rock falling. From the tree in the left part of the ledge there is a difficult 5 m traverse to the left and upwards and then by an easy way go upwards till the tree in the left part of the area under the Gates.

From the tree go 30 m to the center of the Gates till the small ledge near the crack –slab, here belay can be made R7.

From the ledge go upwards along the crack, which is in the center of the Gates. In the crack the bolt blocks are seen. Bypass on the left the overhang of the right side of the Gates and go to the ledge with the tree. After the tree there is a ledge with bolts for fixing lines up for night. To spend night here comfortably can no more than 2 people.

From the ledge go upwards along the overhang in its left part to the tree.

From the tree go 7- 10 m to the right where the bolt is, then move 15 m more in the same direction to the grotto with an inclined area R9 (suitable for night).

From the grotto traverse 10 m to the right and go upwards along the bolts till the ledge with bolt block (R9), these 2 pitches are with strong traverse.

From R9 traverse 10 m to the right till the wide overgrown ledge going to the right and upwards to the base of the chimney with a tree in its lower part. It is a buttress, which divides two walls, here the wall part of the route ends, the relief becomes more divided, there are many ledges.

Go 40 m upwards along the chimney till the area with a tree (R12). Then go 3 pitches upwards till the ledge, leading to the right. Then go on foot by the slope, overgrown with trees, to the plateau and to the descend path from Kush-Kaya mountain.

Nuts: 15 .
thin channels - 5.
thin universals - 5.
a piece of static rope – 10m

Most of the bolts on the route are dangerous. It would be reasonable to change them.

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