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Notice: Undefined variable: top_comments in /usr/local/www/mountainru/data/article/mainarticle.php on line 486 Author: Streltcov S., Sevastopol

Route «Óõàíîâñêèé» (Uhanovsky)

Cape Aya. The Lost World. Face with altitude 501,6 m in the western end of the amphitheatre

A. Lyapun, Streltcov S., A.Bukov, M. Plushenko – 1986.
Streltcov S. – 2005 ã.

About the route:
• Peak with altiyude 501,6 m is a part of the plateau moved by the plastic ground. The cracks, separating it from North-West and South-East, are situated along the big tectonic breaks. While moving the rocks changed their forms. It is a reason for the stone slips and big amount of different filling substances in the holes and cracks. Even under the overhangs you can find clay, sand, calcite etc. Especially dangerous such a geological construction is on the pitches R1 – R4.

• The reliable reference point is a sole deciduous tree (pistachio tree) on R2.

• On the traverse from R1 you meet 2 unusual bolts (their length is 220 ìì ). If the ring has not weaken since 1986, use it.

• Exit from the end of the traverse on the balcony under R2 was made without any interim belay points. Ledges for holds are deep, but covered with soil on 10 cm.

• R3 is located at the small distance from R2 because of difficult connection.

• Belay R4 is on the inclined slabs of the right wall of the Main couloir it is safe of stone-slips.

• From the Big ledge you can suddenly ascend on the summit along the both ridges of the peak. N-Western one is better.

• For the descent from the peak it is better to go through the saddle-point to the plateau. Northern couloir is bad for the descent to The Lost World because of the stone-slips!

• Route was send in two working days.

• Total quantity of the points placed was 40 – 50 ones.

Note: the location of the wall is marked on the view photon of the region, in route «Pourquoi pas?» – 2003 deion.

Deion made by Streltcov S.. I ñ. ð. Instructor's card ¹ 4187
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