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Marina Kopteva. First Female Solo Ascent on Marcheka, 981m, Crimea

Ukranian Marina Kopteva (one of two CIS female climbers we ever have) completed the first female solo ascent on Marcheka (981m, Crimea) via Center (6А, VI+, C2, 335m).

It seems the first female solo ascent on Marcheka and probably the first female solo ascent in Crimea.

About route

Name: Center
Grade: 6a, A2, 335m
FA Zasypkin-Kornys, 1972
"Center" considered as the most difficult route on this wall for a long time. Now there are more difficult routes.

To see comparative route's rating follow this page:

Marcheka Comparative Route's Rating

Des cription

Long route with many traverses that makes it not so good for soloing.
You may find good bolts but you still need your own pieces for protection.

If my memory doesn't fail me there were only two solo ascents before: made by Yuriy Lishaev (a.k.a. Fantik) in the eighties and Mikhail Voloshanskiy in 1987.
And several more solo attempts.

Psychologically hard.


1st pitch – 45m, 85 degrees, V+ (R0-R1)
2nd pitch – 40m, 80 degrees, V+ (R1-R2)
3d pitch – 45m, 80 degrees, V (R2-R3)
4th pitch – 15m, 60 degrees, III (R3-R4)
5th pitch – 45m, 95 degrees, VI (R4-R5)
6th pitch - 35m, 90 degrees, V+ (R5-R6)
7th pitch – 30m, 85 degrees, V + 10м, 90 degrees, VI (R6-R7)
8th pitch - 25m, 90 degrees, VI + 20м, 85 degrees, V (R7-R8)
9th pitch - 45m, 90 degrees, V (R8-R9)
10th pitch - 30m, 100 degrees, VI (R9-R10)

Date of ascent 10-11, Apr (one night on the wall)

Marcheka, 981m, Crimea
More Marcheka's pics here and here

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