Mshatka: triangle on the right, by the center of the eastern bastion / English. Climbing / Mountain.RU


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Mshatka: triangle on the right, by the center of the eastern bastion

BY THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE TRIANGLE IN THE EASTERN PART OF THE MASSIF (“TRIANGLE ON THE RIGHT”), 3 Б

Between the central and The eastern bastions, In the upper part of the wall two long slanting interrapted ledges with trees make the big slanting corner, well seen from the road, named Triangle. The main part of the the route goes along the right interrupted ledge, forming Triangle.

From the upper road, 30 m to the east from the fork to the lower (the main) road and village Foros, ascend firstly by the path, then by the slide-rocks and easy rocks to the inclined terrace overgrown with bushes and trees, situated under the “Triangle”. Go along it in its upper right corner (section R0: 250 m, 30-50 0, б / к –I)

On the section R1-R2 – from the right upper corner ascend by 10-meter wall to the long interrupted crack – the right side of the Triangle. Go along the crack to the left and upwards to the big tree (R1-R2: 40 m, 70 0, III).

On the section R2-R3 – firstly go upwards to the small mould, then go upwards and to the left to the ledge In the base of the small corner. Go along it to the left to the outside corner (ridge) and then go to the small narrowing ledge (R2-R3: 40 m, 70 0, III).

On the section R3-R4 –go to the left and upwards by difficult rocks (R3-R4: 40 m, 80 0, IV+).

On the section R4-R5 – ascend by the abrupt nail slabs to the base of the overgrown couloir - “summit” of the Triangle (R4-R5: 50 m , 70 - 60 0 , III - II ).

On the section R5-R6 – go upwards and to the left by the couloir in the base of the vertical corner (R5 – R6: 40 m, 60 0, II).

On the last section of the route go upwards by the vertical corner till the summit (R6 - peak: 30 m, 85 0, IV+)

Length of the main part of the route is 240 m .

The ascent takes 3 - 4 hours.

BY THE CENTER OF THE EASTERN BASTION, 5 А

From the upper road ascend by easy rocks in the right part of the overgrown slanting terrace, situated under the eastern part of the wall. The route starts in 20 m to the east of the beginning of the right “side ” of Triangle (R0: 300 m, 30-50 0, б/к - I).

On the section R1-R2 – from the narrow slanting ledge go along the left side of the small buttress to the pine-tree and then go upwards by the abrupt walls to the tree (R1-R2: 40 m, 70 0, III).

Then go upwards by the center of the bastion. The reference point is a 20-meter corner with a tree in its upper part. On the section R2-R3 go firstly by the short slab to the right, then go upwards by the difficult slabs, walls and corners. Corner overhangs in its upper part. Belay is in the small grotto (R2-R3: 40 m, 75 0, IV).

On the section R3-R4 go upwards by the abrupt slabs and in 20 m turn to the right to the ledge (R3-R4: 20 m, 80 0, V 15 m, 70 0, IV).

On the section R4-R5 firstly traverse to the left by the inclined ledge to the tree, then go upwards by difficult rocks. In their upper их part there is an overhanging 10-meter chimney (R4-R5: 40 m, 70 0, III 10 m, 90 0, V).

On the last section of the route firstly go upwards and to the left by the left part of the wide corner and then move upwards to the summit (R5 - peak: 60 m, 60-70 0, III)

The ascent takes 4-5 hours.

Length of the main part of the route is about 230 m.

P.S. The route is rarely visited.

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