The route №3. On the left side of the Green corner, 4 А (40 m, V) (the route of A.Brunza, 1991).

Go about 150 m to the direction of Baidary Gates from the alpinist camps under Forossky Kant till the beginning of the ascent to the Green corner.

From the road move upwards by slide-rocks to the abrupt wall. Getting over the small wall, go to the right along the ledge to the big corner, situated on the left side of the break and turning above into the vertical chimney. (R0: 100 m, 30 0, в/к 8 m, 75 0, III 10 m, 40 0, б/к ).

On the section R1-R2 go upwards along the corner to the top of the break (R1-R2: 30 m, 75 0, IV).

On the section R2-R3 firstly go upwards 8 m to the small overhang. Then, having got it, go upwards and little to the left by the abrupt wall 30 m . (R2-R3: 20 m, 80 0, V 20 m, 75 0, IV).

On the section R3-R4 go to the left and upwards to the left side of the Green corner (R3-R4: 40 m, 60-70 0, III).

The reference point of the next section is a big pine-tree in 50 m from the base of the corner. On the section R4-R5 – firstly go upwards and to the left to the old juniper. Then go upwards by the vertical corner to the pine-tree (R4-R5: 40 m, 70 0, III).

On the section R5-R6 – go upwards from the pine-tree: firstly by the chimney, then along the corner (R5-R6: 40 m, 70 0, III).

On the section R6-R7 – mainly go upwards 100 m by the steep walls and corners (R6-R7: 100 m, 60 0, II).

On the last section of the route go upwards and to the right by the slide-till the plateau (R7 - яйла: 100 m, 40-50 0, б/к ).

Length of the main part of the route а is about 300 m .

Time is 3 – 4 h.

The route №4. ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE “THE GREEN CORNER”, 5 А
(the route V. Timofeev, 1981 г .)

Go about 150 m to the direction of Baidary Gates from the alpinist camps under Forossky Kant till the beginning of the ascent to the Green corner.

From the road move upwards by slide-rocks to the abrupt wall (R0: 100 m, 30 0, в/к ).

On the section R1-R2 – having got the small wall, go to the right along the ledge to the big corner, turning into the vertical chimney on the left side of the break. Go upwards along it to the top of the break (R1-R2: 8 m, 75 0, IV 10 m, 40 0, б / к 20 m, 75 0, IV).

On the section R2-R3 – firstly go upwards 5 m to the small overhang by the break, then, , having got it, go upwards and little to the left by the abrupt wall 30 m (R2-R3: 20 m, 80 0, V 20 m, 75 0, IV).

On the section R3-R4 – little to the left, then upwards till the horizontal ledge in the base of the Green corner (R3-R4: 80 m, 60-70 0, III).

On the section R4-R5 –go firstly to the right and upwards, then 25 m upwards along the corner to the overhanging wall. It is passed head-on. Then go along the corner till the 10-meter vertical chimney (R4-R5: 50 m, 80 0, V).

On the section R5-R6 – firstly go upwards by the chimney, then ascend by the slab with a small crack. Then to the right till the big crack filled with grass.

(R5-R6: 40 m, 85 0, VI).

On the section R6-R7 – go to the small overhang above the crack. It is passed in its right part. Then go upwards, firstly by 7-meter corner, then by the slab to the big cornices. They are passed firstly right to the left, then upwards, and in the end it is a small traverse to the right (R6-R7: 40 m, 80 0, V).

On the section R7-R8 – firstly go upwards by the 25-meter chimney. Then go upwards by the abrupt slab, then by small, but difficult corner

(R7-R8: 40 m, 80 0, V+).

On the last section of the route go upwards and to the right by middle-grade rocks till the plateau (R8-the summit: 40 m, 70 0, III).

Length of the main part of the route is about 400 m.

Time is 4 – 5 h.

P.S. Vladimir Timofeev, master of sports of USSR in alpinism and climbing, reiterated champion and prize winner of USSR championships in alpinism.  

The route №5. ON THE LEFT SIDE of the WESTERN BUTTRESS, 4B

Go about 150 m to the direction of Baidary Gates from the alpinist camps under Forossky Kant till the beginning of the ascent to the Green corner.

From the road move upwards by slide-rocks to the abrupt wall (R0: 100 m, 30 0, в/к ).

On the section R1-R2 – having got the small wall, go to the right along the ledge to the big corner, turning into the vertical chimney on the left side of the break. Go upwards along it to the top of the break (R1-R2: 8 m, 75 0, IV 10 m, 40 0, б / к 20 m, 75 0, IV).

On the section R2-R3 – firstly go upwards 5 m to the small overhang by the break, then, , having got it, go upwards and little to the left by the abrupt wall 30 m (R2-R3: 20 m, 80 0, V 20 m, 75 0, IV).

On the section R3-R4 – little to the left, then upwards till the horizontal ledge in the base of the Green corner (R3-R4: 80 m, 60-70 0, III).

On the section R4-R5 – in 5 meters to the right from the base of The Green corner go upwards to the chimney. Then go upwards along it, then upwards and little to the left to the tree (R4-R5: 40 m, 75 0, IV).

On the section R5-R6 – firstly traverse to the inclined ledge, then go along the walls to the corner and move along it upwards and to the right (R5-R6: 45 m, 60 0, III).

On the section R6-R7 – go upwards and to the right to the big tree, bypassing the overhanging wall (R6-R7: 40 m , 75 0 , IV).

On the section R7-R8 – go 40 m upwards and to the right till the beginning of the western buttress and along it to the grotto (hole) (R7-R8: 40 m, 70 0, III).

On the last section of the route firstly go upwards by the abrupt wall to the right of the grotto, then move along the corner to the plateau (R8-the summit: 40 m, 70 0, III).

Length of the main part of the route is about 400 m.

Time is 4 – 5 h.

P.S. It is one of the longest and most difficult 4-grade routes in the region.

The route №6. By THE WESTERN BUTTRESS (KANT) ON THE LEFT (KANT po KANTU), 5 А *) (the route of A.Grishkevich and V.Volkodav, 1970)

On the section R1-R2 move firstly upwards by the crack , then a little to the right (R1-R2: 20 m, 80 0, V 20 m, 75 0, IV).

On the section R2-R3 move upwards by the break, then to the right from the two overhanging bastions (R2-R3: 40 m , 70 0 , III).

On the section R3-R4 move a little to the left, then upwards by the chimney with the trees to the “cup” under the Green corner . Then go to the right to the big 40-meter ledge on the buttress (like a paw). It is a reason for its name (R3-R4: 80 m , 60-70 0 , III).

On the section R4-R5 move upwards on the Paw on the left side. Firstly go along the crack between The Paw and the wall. In its upper part the crack turns into a chimney (R4-R5: 40 m, 85 0, V+).

On the section R5-R6 move from the Paw 5 m upwards by the abrupt wall, then there are 2 variations. The newer one goes upwards to the bolt ladder and goes 20 m upwards along it by the abrupt slab. The elder one goes to the right to the old bolt ladder. Go along it 20 m to the left and upwards ( R5-R6: 35 m, 85 0, V+).

On the sections R6-R9 move firstly upwards, then traverse to the right under the overhanging wall till the big pine-tree. After the pine-tree go to the left and upwards, then move upwards by the middle-grade and more difficult rocks till the big ledge under the abrupt wall. Having got a 5-meter abrupt wall, move to the left and upwards. Go along the corner to the plateau (R6-R9: 130 m, 60-70 0, III-IV).

Length of the main part of the route is about 370 m.

Time is 4 – 5 hours.

*) The difficult part of the route is equipped by the permanent belay points.

The route №7. BY THE WESTERN BUTTRESS (KANT) ON THE RIGHT, 5 А (variation 5 Б ) *)

On the section R1-R3 it is difficult climbing by the 70-meter crack (R1-R3: 70 m , 85 0 , V+).

On the section R3-R4 go upwards and to the left by the middle-grade rocks to the break Лапа (Paw) ( R3-R4 : 40 m , 70-60 0 , III).

On the section R4-R5 go upwards to the Paw on the left. Firstly ascend the crack between the Paw and the wall. In its upper part the crack turns into a chimney (R4-R5: 40 m , 85 0 , V+).

On the section R5-R6 go 5 m upwards from the Paw by the abrupt wall, then there are 2 variations.

The newer one goes upwards to the bolt ladder and goes 20 m upwards along it by the abrupt slab. The elder one goes to the right to the old bolt ladder. Go along it 20 m to the left and upwards ( R5-R6: 35 m , 85 0 , V+).

On the sections R6-R9 move firstly upwards, then traverse to the right under the overhanging wall till the big pine-tree. After the pine-tree go to the left and upwards, then move upwards by the middle-grade and more difficult rocks till the big ledge under the abrupt wall. Having got a 5-meter abrupt wall, move to the left and upwards. Go along the corner to the plateau (R6 is the summit: 130 m , 60-70 0 , III-IV).

There is a more difficult variation of the section R3-R5 “ The Paw on the right ”. On the section R3-R4' go 10 m upwards and to the right to the crack, limiting the Paw on the right. Then there are 20 m of difficult climbing by the crack. The belay is in the base of the chimney (R3-R4': 10 m , 65 0, V 20 m, 80 0, VI).

On the section R4'-R5 go upwards 30 m by the chimney. Climbing is difficult (R4'-R5: 30 m , 85 0 , VI). Then move by the main route.

Length of the main part of the route is about 320 m.

Time is 4 – 5 ч.

*) The difficult part of the route is equipped by permanent belay points.

The route №8. ON THE LEFT SIDE of the SOUTH-EASTERN FACE and THE WESTERN BUTTRESS ( ПЕРЬЯ (Feathers), 5 А *)

On the section R1-R3 go upwards by the narrow vertical crack. Climbing is difficult (R1-R3: 70 m, 80 0, V+).

On the section R3-R4 go to the left and upwards firstly by the face, then 10 m by the chimney, formed by the lower break Перо (Feather) till the ledge with a tree (R3-R4: 30 m, 75 0, IV+).

On the section R4-R5 go firstly 12 m upwards by the chimney to the top of the second Feather, then go to the left and upwards to the top of the small tracery crack, which crowns the ring of breaks. Then there is a difficult pass to the wall. Go10 m by the slab to the left and upwards to the small tree (R4-R5: 30 m, 80 0, V+).

On the section R5-R6 go 15 m upwards along the corner, then move upwards and to the left by the abrupt wall to the pine-tree (R5-R6: 30 m, 85 0, V+).

On the section R6-R7 go upwards and to the left to the western buttress and move along it to the tree (R6-R7: 40 m, 70 0, III).

On the section R7-R9 go upwards by the western buttress to the grotto (R7-R8: 40 m, 70 0, III R8-R9: 20 m, 70-60 0, III-II).

On the last section of the route, having got a 5-meter abrupt wall, move to the left and upwards and along the corner go to the plateau (R9- the summit: 20 m, 80 0, IV).

Length of the main part of the route is 280 m.

The ascent takes 4-5 hours.

*) The difficult part of the route is equipped by permanent belay points.