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Author: Taras Ivankov, Simferopol, Ukraine
Foros . Hergiani rock . March 23, 2004. A . Lavrinenko ( Shura Odessit ) – I . Savelyev ( Sava )
The route goes along the southern buttress of Hergiani rock, just opposite the route “Surprise”.
Approach: go along the upper old road to the Devil's Stairs, then 400- 500 m to the east, to a small rock near the road, and 100- 130 m more to the note “Crimea” made with green paint. Opposite the note a good path begins, leading to the left and upwards. Go along this path for 10 minutes till the stony glade, 20 m more and near the green mark on the tree turn to the right and go to "Musi-Pusi" sign. Ascend 20 m along the grassy couloir to the ledge with a triangle and pointer here the route starts.
It is recommended to visit this route in dry weather.
R1 - 30 m, 1 grade: Go upwards through the easy rocks to the bolt.
R2 - 40 m, 2 grade: From the belay traverse to the right and go upwards along the crack. In the crack there is grass with soil, try to climb in thrust, it is much easier and safer. Belay is on the juniper.
R3 - 35 m, 2 grade: Go upwards till the big pine-tree (attention – destroyed rocks!) From the pine-tree go upwards to the ledge, then10 m along it to the bolt (belay).
R4 - 30 m, 3 grade. Crux. It's well seen where to climb – 2 bolts. Belay is on the bolt with ring.
R5 - 20 m: From the belay go to the left and upwards along the inclined ledge to the bolt (you can move at the same time).
R6 - 50 m, 1 grade: Go 20 m upwards, then go along the crack to the right and upwards (bolt) till the tree, then go 5- 6 m upwards to the bolt with ring. Here the route ends. You can ascend on the summit (100- 120 m upwards through inclined destroyed rocks) or descend by the inclined grassy terrace.
Some words about descent: it is very beautiful and easy, goes through the view points. You can even bathe in the river.
Wish you good ascent and marvelous walk!
Gear: 10 quickdraws
Set of nuts
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