Author Nicolas Favresse, Belgium
Climbs we did in Greenland
I hope life is treating you well.
We are slowly adjusting back to the normal life after 3 months of madness in
Greenland... This was definitely one of our wildest adventure so far. But
don't worry we are already thinking of wilder things :)
The combination of sailing and climbing was perfect except for a few meals
wasted overboard ! On the other hand it kept us light for the climbing )
The atmosphere of sailing through huge Icebergs was absolutely incredible
and being able to climb virgin big walls right off the sailboat in such a
wild place felt unreal.
Here finally are the details of the routes we put up.
Generally the climbing in the Upernavick area was very adventurous with lots
of grass in the cracks, thick lichen and seagulls vomiting on us, and walls
that starts straight out of the water but the rock was really good quality
(under the grass). It made it very challenging to climb onsight, dig the
grass for pro (getting covered with dirt) fighting with the seagulls and
dealing with lichen friction holds. Any pitch was always a real challenge!
In The south (Cape farewell area) it's a more alpine environment with
mountains and glaciers covered with granite spires. The rock is really clean
with perfect cracks. Certain routes we put up were so clean we could have
never tell it was a FA or a 50th repeat. It was a nice contrast after the
adventures in Upernavick area.
- July 2nd :FFA Red Chili Crackers 350m 5.12- R on the Red wall (that's how we called it/probably the first ascent of the wall) - team : Olivier and Sean
- July 2nd : FFA Seagull¹s garden 400m 5.11 on the Red wall one bolt was placed on lead to protect a slab (the only bolt we placed on the expedition) - Team : Ben and Nico
- July 6 : FFA Brown balls wall 400m 5.12- (all free except for a 10 meter very wet and dirty section which would not be hard to freeclimb in good conditions) on the Brown balls wall (that's how we called it/ probably the first ascent of the wall) - team : Olivier and Ben first 3 pitches / Nico and Sean the rest.
- July 11-22 : FFA Devil's brew 850m 5.12+ on the impossible wall (that's how we called it/ probably the first ascent of the wall) 11 days/ 3 portaledge camps (no bolts) Team : Olivier, Nico, Ben and Sean We topped out with everything and walked down the back side.
Cape farewell Area
Sponsors : Belgian Alpine Club, Patagonia , Five Ten , Black Diamond, Petzl
, Seeonee , Yeti , Sterling rope , careplus , Milo, Julbo, Cab brabant ,
- August 16 : FFA Corned beef 450m 5.11 on Shepton Spire (that's how we called the spire- not sure if it was the FA of the spire)
then climbed a very scenic ridge leading to the summit of another spire on the East side of
Shepton spire- Team : Ben and Sean
- August 16 : FFA condensed milk 450m 5.11 on Shepton spire then climbed a very scenic ridge leading to the summit of another spire on the East side of Shepton spire team : Nico and Olivier
- August 20 : FFA Never again 500m 5.10 on Angnikitsoq ( not sure if it was the FA of the wall) team Bob Shepton, Sean and Nico
- August 21 : FFA Chloe 550m 5.11+ OW(offwidth) Angegoq Tower on Quvernit Island then followed the ridge the summit of Morel Tower and then the summit of Asiaq Tower - team : Olivier and Sean
- August 21 : FFA (one pitch was freed on toprope due to a scary fall with a rock) The Chinese Gibe 550m 5.11+ OW (offwidth) Angegoq Tower on Quvernit Island then followed the ridge the summit of Morel Tower and then the summit of Asiaq Tower Team : Ben and Nico ( we found one bolt and a couple of rap anchors on the lower part of the wall so we are not really sure of what was done before, we found no info about who placed the bolt)