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Автор: Yuri Kruglov, Sevastopol

“New” routes on Chelebi

Route "Fly down"

Yuri Kruglov on route "Dana".
Was ascended by A. Zakrevsky in autumn 1993. Sasha was under the impression of ascents in the mountains of Wales , where we spent a month together, and went to the mountains almost every day. Many of those routes were in style of “New wave” – that means that if you climb out, you escape, if not – you have further problems. The routes also names impressed us: Menstrual Gossip, Flying Buttress, Sexual Salami, Fear of Rejection, First Slip etc.

So, Sasha decided to do something heroic at home. Thus "Fly Down" route appeared. The spectacular place was chosen: a solid boulge under a big red cornice in the right part of Chelebi massif. And though the ethics of ascent was not alpinist at all (the lines were fixed up for the exploring of the alleged route), the route was worthy. What is noteworthy, A. Zakakarevsky himself didn't ascend here more, but other ascenders undertook repeated and sometimes successful tries. The Sevastopol team under the guidance of M. Vorobyev after the first unhappy try acquired a 2 m “rod” for bolt clipping. With its help they successfully reached the peak. A. Zhiltcov ( Kazan ) ascended the whole route by free climbing. The route is very “merry”. On every bolt there is a encouraging note such as “further is worse”. In general, it is worth visiting.

The most “fresh” route on Chelebi was made on April 1999 by a couple Yu. Kruglov - Yu . Lyashenko . It took 24 working hours (without ascendering) and ended on April 25, on birthday of my girlfriend whose name is Dana. The route was named in her honor and presented as a birthday present. Style is “new wave” – minimum bolts, maximum using the relief.

The significant part of the route goes along the order of several vertical inner corners ( А 3- А 4). Each inner corner has shape of function y=x3 on area of argument from 0 and further. In the central part there is a 25 m section ascended with sky hooks (5 bolts are placed).

For the detailed acquaintance give a deion. Start is 5 m to the right from the inner corner, which is the beginning of “Strelka” route of M. Suslov. Another landmark is in 2 m to the right, they are a large split and a tree. The route is “signed”. The year of first ascent is carved with a punch (99).

Route "Dana" 6B

R0-R1: Just from the ground go along the vertical 3 m wall with a narrow crack AID (3 m, 95 degree, A4) till the bend. After the bend sky hooks are placed on “buzzing patches” then climbing upwards (80 degrees, 5 m, VI), go to the first bolt. Then go upwards along the narrow overhanging crack (10 m, 95 degrees, A2-A3) till the small step. Then traverse to the right through the solid wall with restricted number of holds (5 m, 95 degrees, VI+). In the end of the traverse there is a patch where a sky hook can be placed. Then go upwards with sky hooks (8 m, 95 degrees, A3, 2 bolts) along the right side of the flat open inner corner till the bend. Then go 10 m upwards along the nail wall and crack (80 degrees, VI, A2) firstly AID (sky hooks), then climbing to the small ledge at the bottom of a vertical inner corner. Here is the useful point R1 on bolts of "Bombproof" trade mark. On all the points bolts are placed for their convenient using while solo climbing.

R1-R2 Go with AID along the crack of the inner corner (20 m, 95 degrees, VI, A2, medium nuts, sky hooks for holes, there are 2 bolts) to the bend where the corner ends. Then the wall becomes more inclined. Go 5 m by difficult climbing to the inclined ledge with 3 bolts of "Bombproof" trade mark.

R2-R3 From R2 climb to the right and upwards over the bend to the bottom of 20 m vertical inner corner. Go by difficult AID through the corner (95 degrees, VI, A3, bolts, sky hooks, there are 3 bolts) to the overhang which is passed in central part with sky hooks (3 m, 100 degrees, A3-A4). Then go upwards with sky hooks along the 27 m wall (95 degrees, A3-A4, there are 5 bolts) to the small ledge with 3 bolts of "Bombproof" trade mark. Here R3 is.

R3-R4 From R3 go 3 m upwards along the inclined crack (80 degrees, А 2, VI). Then go upwards with sky hooks (8 m, 85 degrees, there are 2 bolts) to the cornice which is bypassed on the right by traverse under the cornice (there is a crack for nuts). Then go upwards by AID (5 m, 90 degrees, A3, a bolt, holes) with sky hooks to the bolt, then traverse to the right (5 m, V+) to the vertical crack. Here R4 is on your own bolts.

R4-R5 From R4 go upwards through the inner corner (10 m, 90 degrees, VI), then through the more gentle relief in 30 minutes go to the peak.

Number of bolts on the route – 30 (with account of 8 ones, placed on belays).

Relative grade of the route - ("Skyway" * + 20%).

To be continued… When I return from Asan, I'll continue the deion of Crimean regions and start the first ascent to the right from the A. Verba's route.

Note: "Skyway" – nowadays is the most difficult route on Morcheka mountain (6B).

Authors: Yuri Kruglov and Yuri Lyashenko.

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