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Author: Anatoly Brunza, Dnepropetrovsk
On the left side of the western buttress, 4B
Go about 150 m to the direction of Baidary Gates from the alpinist camps under Forossky Kant till the beginning of the ascent to the Green corner.
From the road move upwards by slide-rocks to the abrupt wall (R0: 100 m, 30 0, в /к).
On the section R1-R2 – having got the small wall, go to the right along the ledge to the big corner, turning into the vertical chimney on the left side of the break. Go upwards along it to the top of the break (R1-R2: 8 m, 75 0, IV 10 m, 40 0, б/к 20 m, 75 0, IV).
On the section R2-R3 – firstly go upwards 5 m to the small overhang by the break, then, , having got it, go upwards and little to the left by the abrupt wall 30 m (R2-R3: 20 m, 80 0, V 20 m, 75 0, IV).
On the section R3-R4 – little to the left, then upwards till the horizontal ledge in the base of the Green corner (R3-R4: 80 m, 60-70 0, III).
On the section R4-R5 – in 5 meters to the right from the base of The Green corner go upwards to the chimney. Then go upwards along it , then upwards and little to the left to the tree (R4-R5: 40 m, 75 0, IV).
On the section R5-R6 – firstly traverse to the inclined ledge, then go along the walls to the corner and move along it upwards and to the right (R5-R6: 45 m, 60 0, III).
On the section R6-R7 – go upwards and to the right to the big tree, bypassing the overhanging wall (R6-R7: 40 m, 75 0, IV).
On the section R7-R8 – go 40 m upwards and to the right till the beginning of the western buttress and along it to the grotto (hole) (R7-R8: 40 m, 70 0, III).
On the last section of the route firstly go upwards by the abrupt wall to the right of the grotto, then move along the corner to the plateau (R8-the summit: 40 m, 70 0, III).
Length of the main part of the route is about 400 m.
Time is 4 – 5 h.
P.S. It is one of the longest and most difficult 4-grade routes in the region.
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