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Автор: Dmitry Spiridonov, Simferopol
How we “got tipsy” on Angarka!
This weekend we had free Sunday, so Maxim and I decided to furrow the spaces of Angarka. The road was nice: sunny, without mosquitoes, the blackberry grew, that's why we were in fighting spirit and decided to climb something interesting. The choice fixed on “Skew”, a mysterious route. I knew only the fact that it exists. It was a stimulus to climb it! The line we read rightly, in any case we had the following:
Line of “Skew” 4A (route of Yu. Lishaev “Fantik”)
R 1: 45m, III. The beginning of first pitch coincides with “sickle” (4B) and goes along the wall to the right from the implicit chimney, easy climbing on pockets, which resembles going upstairs. Belay with big camalots in the chimney. On the ledge with big beech on it go to the right through the overgrown section to the destroyed rocks. Move accurately, trying not to tear off the holds. Just after the destroyed rocks (well seen red horizontal stripe through all the wall) there is a convenient ledge for the belay (nuts and friends).
R 2: 45m, IV. From the belay go to the left along the overgrown destroyed cracks to the ledge, then go along the wall (! There is a splitting off which can fall on the right side) upwards to the much destroyed rocks. Everything hangs by a thread. Then go on foot 8 m along the ledge to the right, go along the very border, it is more solid and without stones, belay is on small nuts, to the right and 1 m lower than “Acrofobia” belay.
R 3: 40m, VI+. Continue to traverse to the right, then go upwards through destroyed rocks to the tree and along the overhanging crack (6 а +,6b) go 7-8 m upwards. Belay is on nuts and camalots. After the overhang go upwards and to the left along the ledge and crack system to the big overgrown ledge. Belay is in the crack on nuts.
R 4: 45m. From the belay go on foot to the left, along the much overgrown ledge to the next ledge with several basswoods on it. You have to descend a little.
R 5: 50 m, III, 5 m – V (chimney). From the ledge with several basswoods on it go to the right and upwards to the large area with trees, then to the left and upwards to the plateau.
Gear: one-and-a-half set of nuts, microstoppers are desirable. Camalots. Friends are also needed, especially in the chimney on the last pitch. 4-5 loops for trees and belay. 10 quickdraws for lengthening.
Here are several photos from the route. Great thanks to Max, he strained every nerve to make them.
Impressions from the route are great! It is very beautiful and technical it gives pleasure and makes you think. In deions it is given as 4B, but that's really too much, it corresponds to 3B!
In any case, it's a definite 4A. On this route you must estimate your abilities, sometimes you have to climb through such destroyed sections that it's horrifying! Or to go through the grassy ledges, holding the grass, so if you don't like such things – don't go.
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