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Author: Igor Savelyev (SAVA) Foros – Dnepropetrovsk

Zamok
The route “Riglos”

By the central wall, to the right from the route “Через пещеру (Through the cave)”

The beginning is same with the Cave, but then climb to the right, go upwards to the bush(10m), then difficult climbing on Riglos starts.

The route goes vertically upwards, without big deviations till the small cypress, a bolt near it is a belay, the end of the 5 th pitch. Then go to the left, by easy crack to the pine-tree and go to the buttress, here are the upper sections of the routes Соколиный (Sokolinuy) and Через пещеру (Through the cave).

The route is cleaned from moving stones and grass with soil. But be careful while free climbing, some walls are mossy. In several places the terrain demanded some chipped holds, in other cases holes for sky hooks were made.

50 bolts are placed on the route, 2 of them per a belay, for 5 belays. Rope length is 35- 40 meters. Distance between belay points is from 2 до 6 meters. Climbing is difficult, AID may be interesting too.

R1 6c 40m
R2 7b+ 35m
R3 7c 40m
R4 6b 20m
R5 6c+/ 7a 40m

Addition: on the 2 nd and 3 rd pitches you can meet two sank tacks: they were used not for belay, but for equipping the route.


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