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Author: Gostev K.V., Yalta
Photo: Voshanov S.V.

Ay-Petri – route “soviet botanists”

In comparison with many other climbing regions of Crimea , walls of Ay-Petri are not so popular because of long approaches, though first steps of Crimean alpinism were made here.

The idea of making new Ay-Petri routes and renewing old ones have been for a long time, but it becomes real with appearance of young reinforcement in Yalta rescue service.

Total length of the route is 370 m.

The approximate grade of the route is 5B (on crux sections the route is equipped, belays have bolts).



-nuts (stoppers, hexes of all kinds)

-Climbing hooks are desirable.

Brief route deion

R0 – R1 (50m, II, 45 degrees)

Left section of the central wall.

Ridge which is situated to the left from “Feathers” and big hole “Eyes” from the foot of the wall to the left and upwards through easy rocks I-II grade to the area with gravel.

R1 – R2 (70m, III - IV, 60-70 degrees)

From the area go upwards and to the left along the overgrown crack which goes through inclined slabs to the large inclined area with a pine-tree. Here the first belay is (for sure it can be strengthened by middle stoppers). For middle points friends and middle nuts are good.

R2 – R3 (25m, , 75 degree)

From the pine-tree go upwards and to the right along the inner corner to the big ledge, then go 10 m to the right along the ledge. Belay is near a small juniper on the wall (for belay bolts, nuts).

R3 – R4 (30m, f 6b+ - 6c, A1, 85 - 90 degrees)

From the juniper go 30 m upwards to the right part of the cornice.

R4 – R5 (45m, f 6b+ - 6c, A1, 90 degrees)

The cornice is passed on the right by free climbing along the inner corner. After the cornice, go along the right part, through the overhangs to the comfortable ledge with belay.

R5 – R6 (50m, f 6b - 6b+, A1, 90 degrees – 30m, f 6b+ - 6c, A1, 90 degrees)

From the ledge go along the inner corner, to the right from the overhanging blocks. Then go to the easy rocks, and to the left to big pine-trees. There belay can be made.

R6 – R7 (100m, II,60 - 65 degrees)

From the pine-trees go to the ridge and along the ridge to the safe place, go to the central couloir, then go along the couloir and somewhere easy rocks to the plateau.

The route was made by the team of Yalta mountain-rescue multifrequency network in membership of Rushkovsky A.A., Horoshok A.A., Gostevv K.V.

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