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Автор: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
"Machombo" (6A, VI, A3, 335m) or Morcheka 2002
The main part of the route was passed in bad weather conditions, so it's difficult now to define its grade, it needs second ascent. (Note: in February 2002 Alexander Maximenya ( Minsk ) passed this route in several days solo).
Length 335 m (8 pitches)
Average abruptness 80 °
Sections: VI grade 240 m, V grade 90 m .
Bolts: 31 (10 of them are for belay)
Holes for sky hooks D6 mm 16
Working hours: 38
Route deion: start is to the left from “Center” (6A), a pointer and name of the route are carved in the wall.
The route is beautiful and logical, on all the belays bolts D12 mm, length 120 mm are placed, with descent rings.
From the news of Mountain.RU of 24.05.2002: group of 2 alpinists from Latvia (Kristaps Liepins and Janis Kigurs) in the middle of May passed one of the most technical Crimean routes – “Machombo” " (6A, VI, A3, 335m) on Morcheka. Time was about 24 working hours, because they ascended in the rainy weather. Kristaps Liepins leaded all the route.
Kristaps Liepins (President of Latvia Alpinist Society): “Very good impression, the root was very interesting and we hadn't ascend anything like this in Crimea before. The most unpleasant moment was on R3-R4 pitch, when a piece of wall peeled off under the sky hook. It may be used by other ascenders. We changed the sky hook for a smaller one and ascended by nail terrain – making holes isn't our style. I'd like to thank all the ascenders for the camp under the wall and especially those alpinists, who were the first to ascend “Machombo” route“.
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