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Автор: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

"Machombo" (6A, VI, A3, 335m) or Morcheka 2002

The idea of the route has been changed a lot during the ascent preparation. Primary plan was to pass Bodnik's route, straighten it through the solid, overhanging in its lower part, slab (boulge). Then we decided to try to straighten the second pitch, passing the first one by Bodnik's variation, and decided that the route must have its own beginning, and we did it. An independent finish suggested itself. Terrain is enough everywhere, so there are no bolt lines or hole series on the route. Every rope has a free climbable section several pitches are fully free climbable.

The main part of the route was passed in bad weather conditions, so it's difficult now to define its grade, it needs second ascent. (Note: in February 2002 Alexander Maximenya ( Minsk ) passed this route in several days solo).

Route characteristics

Length 335 m (8 pitches)

Average abruptness 80 °

Sections: VI grade 240 m, V grade 90 m .

Bolts: 31 (10 of them are for belay)

Holes for sky hooks D6 mm 16

Working hours: 38

Route deion: start is to the left from “Center” (6A), a pointer and name of the route are carved in the wall.

First pitch is mainly by AID, sky hooks, hooks, small stoppers, 4 bolts. Last 10 m match Bodnik's route “Arsenal”. Belay is on the ledge.
VI+, A3, 45m

Then go upwards through the shells and cracks, partly climbing, but mainly AID: hooks, small friends, sky hook, 3 bolts (30m, 70°, VI, A2). In the upper part it is climbable part (15m, V) to the belay.
VI, A2, 45m

Go upwards along the corner to the boulge (15m, 70°, V+), then AID: hooks, sky hooks, 5 bolts, belay is on 2 bolts (35m, VI, A2-A3).
VI, A3, 50m

Go to the left and upwards 5- 7 m by sky hooks, then climb to the ledge. Then go upwards, to the left from the red stain: holes, 3 bolts, relief sky hooks last meters climb to the corner where belay is.
VI, A3, 30m

Go upwards along the corner (you can climb, but grass prevents) (20 м , VI), then climb 10 m by the wall to the bolt. Then go along the slab, partly climb, partly AID (hooks, 3 bolts) to the left and upwards to the belay in the end of the 6 th pitch of “Classic” (5B).
VI, A2, 50m, 85°

Next pitch matches “Classic” route. Belay is on the ledge with big bolt.
V , 45 m, 70°

Go n upwards to the crack (“Classic” goes to the right). Belay is on the top of the crack.
V, 35m, 70°

From the top of the crack go along the crack, then the solid wall (sky hooks, bolts) go to the inclined wall. Then climb 10 m to the summit.
VI, A2, 35m, 85°

The route is beautiful and logical, on all the belays bolts D12 mm, length 120 mm are placed, with descent rings.

From the news of Mountain.RU of 24.05.2002: group of 2 alpinists from Latvia (Kristaps Liepins and Janis Kigurs) in the middle of May passed one of the most technical Crimean routes – “Machombo” " (6A, VI, A3, 335m) on Morcheka. Time was about 24 working hours, because they ascended in the rainy weather. Kristaps Liepins leaded all the route.

Kristaps Liepins (President of Latvia Alpinist Society): “Very good impression, the root was very interesting and we hadn't ascend anything like this in Crimea before. The most unpleasant moment was on R3-R4 pitch, when a piece of wall peeled off under the sky hook. It may be used by other ascenders. We changed the sky hook for a smaller one and ascended by nail terrain – making holes isn't our style. I'd like to thank all the ascenders for the camp under the wall and especially those alpinists, who were the first to ascend “Machombo” route“.

Section R0-R1

Section R2-R3

Kristaps Liepins

Section R4-R5

Night. Kristaps Liepins

Night. Janis Kigurs

On the summit

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