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Author: Maxim Kostrov

Small Kilse, the route "Коля - Толя" (variation)
3Б, F5b (5m 6a), 160m

The route has several variations. This is one of them.

From the upper road go firstly along the path, going to Kievsky couloir* , then go straight upwards by the stone-slipping slope to the wall. Ascend to the rocky jut under the central part of the wall.
* Kievsky couloir is a couloir, dividing the peaks Zamok and Small Kilse.

By the inclined rocks go to the right part of the wall to the crack leading on the ledge with madrono. Belay is on the bolt with sign "8 m арта (On March 8)".

R0-R1: II/III, 30m

Go to the right by the ledge under the chimney. Go upwards by the chimneytill the ledge with small tree (15m 5b). (The standard variation leads out of the chimney - traverse 5m to the right by the slab to the beginning of the crack, then go upwards)
After the ledge climb straight upwards by the chimney, via the small overhang (5m 6 а ). Then climb upwards by the chimney to the tree on the big ledge (belay problems), or in 2 meters traverse to the left to the bolt of "8 m арта (On March 8)" route, and bypassing on the right the small destroyed cornice, climb on the same ledge to the big pine-tree.
R1-R2: 5b/6a/4c, 40m

From pine-tree go to the right by the ledge, then by easy rocks ascend on ridge to the dead juniper. From the juniper climb by easy rocks firstly to the right and upwards, then to the left and upwards to the summit of the ridge.
R2-R3-R4: II, 90m

Then climb along the ridge

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