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Zamok Peak is situated in the western part of the Southern Coast, to the north-east е from Foros village. Its altitude is 650 m and it is about 370 m from its foot, well seen from the road Yalta - Sevastopol.
Above the upper (old) road, which more than 100 years connected Sevastopol and Yalta, the southern wall Zamok overhangs.
Vertical, with nail, mossy, sometimes overhanging lower part gentlier sloping, but destroyed upper part and several grottos in the center, overgrowing with ivy - it stirs up admiration and timidity. Three very difficult routes go along it. On the gentlier sloping south-eastern wall there are several relatively easy routes.
The route Киевская (Kievskaya) is popular among "larries", Интеграл (integral) and Обратный Интеграл (backward integral) are popular among middle grade alpinists.
Below there is a list of the routes on Zamok from west to east. In brackets there are names, given to seversal routes by first ascenders and corresponding Alpine grades.
- By the left side of the central part of the Southern wall, 5 Б (route of YU. Lishaev (Fantik) and V. Tarasevichа, 1977)
- By the center of the Southern wall ( Соколиный (Sokolinuy)), 6 А (route of Fantik, 1985)
- By the central part of the Southern wall Через пещеру (Through the cave), 6 Б (route of Fantik, 1986)
- By the left edge of the bastion Интеграл (integral) ( Обратный Интеграл (backward integral)), 4 А
- By the right edge of the bastion Интеграл (integral), 3 Б (route of А . Grishkevich а and V. Mironovа, 1969)
- By the center of the south-eastern wall ( Киевская (Kievskaya)), 1 А .
Approach to the routes N1, №2 and №3 begin from the upper road (old road Yalta - Sevastopol ), and to the routes N4, №5 and №6 from the middle part of Kievsky couloir, situated between the peaks Zamok and Small Kilse. One can ascend to the couloir by the path, which starts near the road widening to the east from the peak.
One can descend from the peak by several ways: firstly, westwards by the marked path to the old road above the Foros church secondly, by the abrupt Kievsky couloir and thirdly, by Башенноmу (Tower) couloir, situated near the eastern edge of the highest peak of Kilse-Boroon region. It is more comfortable and safe for descent, than Киевский (Kievsky).
BY THE CENTER OF THE SOUTH-EASTERN WALL
( КИЕВСКАЯ (KIEVSKAYA) ), 1А ( 60m, II)
Approach Киевский (Kievsky) couloir is described in the route “ Обратный Интеграл (backward integral)”. Ascend along it by the slide-rocks above the conical rock, till the big mould - hole in the gently sloping lower part of the wall ( section R0 ).
On the section R1-R2 go 60 m upwards and to the right by easy rocks of the mould. Then go ( sections R2-R3 and R3-R4 ) upwards and to the left 80 m by the inclined slabs and ledges till the part of Интеграл (integral) bastion (R1-R2: 60m, 50 0, б/к R2-R3: 40m, 55 0, I R3-R4: 40m, 60 0, I).
On the section R4-R5 - move to the left and upwards turning by the middle grade rocks to the left side of the bastion, till the small ledge In the base of the wide corner. This is the most difficult section on the route (R4-R5: 40m, 65 0, II) .
On the last section of the route firstly go upwards and to the right 20 m by the corner, sometimes turning into the chimney. Then go 80m upwards and little to the right by easy rocks till the summit (R5-peak: 20m, 65 0, II 80m, 50 0, I).
Length of the main part of the route is 220 m. The ascent takes 2 hours.
P.S. In spring there are many moving stones. The groups going ahead can stones.
BY THE RIGHT EDGE OF ИНТЕГРАЛ (INTEGRAL) BASTION, 3 Б ( 40m, V)
(route of А. Grishkevichа and V. Mironovа, 1969 )
The main part of the route goes along the vertical corner, situated on the right edge of the central part of Интеграл (integral) bastion.
Approach to Киевский (Kievsky) couloir is described in the route “ Обратный Интеграл (backward integral)”. Ascend by the couloir above large slide-rocks, then go to the small conical rock. Then move to the lowering between it and wall (section R0).
On the section R1-R2 firstly traverse to the left and go upwards to the base of the corner, going by the right edge of the central part of Интеграл (integral) bastionа, then go upwards along it to the group of trees ( R1-R2: 20 m, 70 0, III 20 m, 50 0, I ) .
On the section R2-R3 go upwards firstly by the 5-meter corner turning into the narrow chimney. In 10 m the chimney turns into 15-meter corner . Then there is a small traverse to the right to the horizontal ledge ( R2-R3: 40 m, 80 0, V) .
On the section R3-R4 go upwards and to the left 80 m till the part of Интеграл (integral) bastionа. Further part coincides with the route №6 (R3-R4: 80 m, 60 0, I).
On the section R4-R5 go 40 m upwards and to the left by the wall till ledge In the base of the corner (R4-R5: 60 m, 65 0, II).
On the last section firstly go upwards and to the right by the 20-meter corner. Then go 80 m upwards by easy rocks till the summit (R5-peak: 80 m, 60 0, I).
Length of the main part of the route is 300 m .
The ascent takes 2-4 hours.
BY THE LEFT EDGE OF ИНТЕГРАЛ (INTEGRAL) BASTION
( ОБРАТНЫЙ ИНТЕГРАЛ (BACKWARD INTEGRAL) ), 3 Б ( 40 m, V )
Bastion Интеграл (integral) is situated in the left part of south- eastern wall of the summit. Its central part is similar to integral sign, that's why the first ascenders – students from Dnepropetrovsk – gave these names to the routes along it. The main part of the the route goes along the big corner situated along the left edge of the bastion.
From the upper road widening, between the peaks Zamok and Small Kilse, ascend along the path till Киевский (Kievsky) couloir and then go upwards along it. Ascend to the small conical wall at the foot of the wall, turn to the left and go to the bridge between the rock and the South -eastern wall. Then bypass the bastion in the west direction till the the small terrace pon the left side of the bastion ( section R0).
On the section R1-R2 go upwards firstly by the abrupt wall, then by the small corner till the beginning of the deep corner (R1-R2: 40 m, 75 0, IV).
On the section R2-R3 go upwards by the vertical deep corner. In the upper part it gets narrow (R2-R3: 40 m, 80 0, -V) .
On the section R3-R4 go 80 m upwards and to the right to the part of the bastion by easy rocks (R3-R4: 80m, 60 0, I) .
Further part of the route coincides with № 6 “ Киевская (Kievskaya)”.
On the section R4-R5 firstly go 40 m to the left and go upwards by the wall till the base of the wide corner (R4-R5: 40 m, 65 0, II) .
On the last section firstly go 20 m upwards, then to the right along it. Then go 80 m upwards by easy rocks till the summit (R5-peak: 20 m, 70 0, II 80 m, 60 0, I ).
Length of the main part of the route is 300 m.
The ascent takes 2 - 4 hours.
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При вводе Логина и Пароля,
