|Добро пожаловать !|
Войти в Клуб Mountain.RU
Mountain photos - amateur and professional photos of mountains.
Forossky Kant: by the red corner of the south-eastern face, in the center of the south-eastern face through the cornice
BY THE RED CORNER OF THE SOUTH-EASTERN FACE ( РЫЖИЙ УГОЛ ), 5 А *)
From the road near the alpinist camps under Forossky Kant move upwards and to the left firstly along the path, then by the slide-rocks to the beginning of the crack under The Red corner (R0: 150 m, 20-30 0, б/к ).
On the section R1-R2 go upwards by the crack, which starts 3 m to the left from the memorial plate. Bolts are found, including old ones. The route line is very logical. Belay is on the small ledge. (R1-R2: 45 m, 80 0, V+).
On the section R2-R3 go upwards through the small overhang with the nail crack, go to the slabs with the stones and soil and move along them to the base of the right corner (to the right from the big oak ). (R2-R3: 20 m, 90 0, VI 20 m, 60 0, III).
On the section R3-R4 go firstly into the corner through the small overhang, then move upwards by the corner (there are bolts for belay) to the big tree. (R3-R4: 40 m, 80 0, V+).
On the section R4-R5 go upwards from the tree along the corner (attention – the crack in the corner can be full of grass and soil!) till the place where the crack goes to the right. It's better to ascend along this crack . In the place of connection with the bolt ladder leading to the route “ Семерка ” (7) continue to move upwards by the slab to the big ledge. (R4-R5: 20 m, 75 0, -V 25 m, 80 0, V+).
On the section R5-R6 go upwards by the right corner to the ledge under the overhanging wall. . It is passed (section R6-R7) firstly traversing to the left, then moving upwards by the crack , bypassing an overhang on the left. Then go upwards by the small breaks and corners to the vertical wall (R5-R6: 30 m, 75 0, IV R6-R7: 40 m, 80 0, V+).
On the section R7-R8 go firstly 5 m upwards, then to the left and upwards to the cornice. It is passed on the left by the crack (R7-R8: 40 m, 80 0, V).
On the last section go firstly upwards by the 8-meter corner under the small cornice. Then traverse 8 m to the right, go along the ledge. Then, moving upwards and to the left, go to the plateau (R8-the summit: 30 m, 80 0, V).
Variation: In the past first two pitches were passed this way. On the section R1-R2' go to the right and upwards along the slanting ledge to the small cave. Before you reach it, ascend (section R2'-R3) 25 m by the abrupt face. Then go tothe left and upwards to the big juniper (R1-R2': 60 m, 60 0, II R2'-R3: 40 m, 85 0, V+).
Length of the main part of the route is about 320 m.
The ascent takes 4-5 hours.
*) The difficult part of the route is equipped by permanent belay points .
IN THE CENTER OF the SOUTH-EASTERN FACE THROUGH THE CORNICE ( СЕМЕРКА ), 5 А (the route of P. Denisenko, 1976 г .), variation Of V. Shushlyapin “ Семерка on the left”, 5 Б *)
From the road near the alpinist camps under Forossky Kant move upwards and to the left firstly along the path, then by the slide-rocks (R0: 150 m, 20-30 0, б/к ).
On the section R1-R2 go upwards 30 m to strawberry tree (R1-R2: 30 m, 80 0, IV).
On the section R2-R3 firstly traverse 10 m to the left to the crack, then move upwards by the corner. Having got a short overhanging wall, move to the juniper (R2-R3: 40 m, 80 0, V).
On the section R3-R4 go firstly to the left and upwards 25 m by the break to the dead tree on the ledge. Above the ledge the is an overhanginf wall. It is passed firstly on the left by the crack, then along the corner (R3-R4: 40 m, 80 0, V+).
On the section R4-R5 go firstly upwards and to the right along the corner to the green bush, situated to the left from the lower part of the cornice Семерка (7). Then move into the upper corner of the cornice (R4-R5: 40 m, 80 0, V).
On the section R5-R6 go upwards. Then traverse to the right 8 m, go along the ledge till the vertical corner. Go upwards by the corner till the horizontal ledge, then traverse 10 m to the left (R5-R6: 40 m, 80 0, V).
On the section R6-R7 go upwards by the nail inclined slabs till the ledge (R6-R7: 40 m, 75 0, IV).
On the section R7-R8 go upwards and to the right to the cave, situated under the overhanging wall (R7-R8: 40 m, 75 0, IV).
On the section R8-R9 after the cave go to the right along the corner and upwards 10 m , then go to the left and upwards, enter the base of the corner, fixed with a wedge in its upper part (R8-R9: 30m, 75 0, -V).
On the section R9-R10 go firstly on the right side of the corner, ascend under the wedge. The wedge is bypassed on the right. Then go 5 m upwards by the chimney and 3 m to the left along the slanting ledge. Through the small wall reach the belay (R9-R10: 15 m, 90 0, V+ 15 m, 90 0, VI).
On the section R10- the summit firstly traverse to the left 5 m round the corner, then go upwards along the corner to the plateau (R10-the summit: 30 m, 75 0, IV+).
Length of the main part of the route is about 370 m.
Time is 3–4 hours.
On the left from the main route there is a line of more difficult variation “ Семерка (7) on the left”, for the first time sent by V. Shushlyapin. There is a deion, made by V.Pestrikov.
This variation goes to the left from “the classic one” in its lower part (up to section R7). Its beginning is in 5 m to the right from the beginning of the route №10 “ Рыжий угол ” (Red Corner).
On the section R1'-R2' go to the right and upwards by the inclined ledge with the trees to the small grotto with “sandglass” on the left wall. (R1'-R2': 60 m, 50°,II). On the section R2'-R3' go upwards from the grotto, to the base of the corner and along the cornerabout 10 m , then to the leftand upwards, orientating by the bolts, to the wide corner, and move by its right part-the slab to the big tree (R2'-R3': 45 m, 80°, V+). On the section R3'-R4 go to the right and upwards by the steep rocks, there are some trees, go on the ledge with two bolts. (R3'-R4: 40 m , 60°, III). On the section R4-R5' go to the left and upwardsfrom the belay, orientating by the bolts. Climbing is difficult , often on friction. Move by the slab to the overhang and go along the corner between the wall and the overhang, go on the top of it (R4-R5': 40 m , 80°, VI).
On the section R5'-R7 move upwards by the slab, orientating by the bolts. Get over the overhang with AID. Then the wall becomes more inclined (R5'-R7: 40 m, 85°, VI, А 1).
Then move by “the classic” route.
|© 1999-2007 Mountain.RU
Mail to: firstname.lastname@example.org