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Author: Alexander Shelhakov
Photo: Alexander Kuzmitcky
Experience on Kastropol wall
First belay is 30 m from the ground, on the ledge. There is an old bolt from Fantik with diameter 10 mm, which is quite strong.
While Grisha was coming, I thought about the further route. Just up through red overhangs there was a vertical overhanging red corner. A bolt was in it. What can it mean? That somebody climbed, understood, that it isn't right, and descended. I also guessed so, because higher something fantastic began: stones with narrow slabs and feathers — it was an overhang. Then a gully filled with clay was seen.
To the right, bypassing it, was a crack with a number of small cornices. After 20 m this way was lost. I moved there, holding the crack using friends. When it finished, and furter way wasn't seen, I placed a bolt under the cornice, climbed on the slabs and moved 10 m to the right and upwards, and entered the inclined ledges, made of small stones. Here I understood that there is no further way, there is no bypass and it is difficult to return to the route. I returned and climbed on the cornices. I thought the route is difficult. It turned out to be «fanatical». You place a bolt and stones fall in 1- 2 meters from you.
On the next pitch it was not so many moving stones, it was simply a crack with AID, then a bit of free climbing a one more present from Fantik. A nail, overhanging crack, little wider than a fist, on its both sides there was a slab without hangs. In the beginning 2 bolts 8 mm diameter are placed near each other. First I thought it was a belay. But then I remembered: it was His style. And I was right - there was climbing further, so I belayed and climbed. I put off everything except chalk bag and a quickdraw (one more bolt was seen above).
When I tried to place my own bolt, I felt bad: a huge slab, combined from smaller blocks, began to crack, and my bolt widened the crack to 60- 70 cm.
I understood that the belay is not safe and decided to climb upwards a little to add several points on the beginning of next pitch. But the crack was far from the belay, and I made a sort of web from the rope. Grisha was told not to fall. He wasn't surprised, but, coming to the belay, in about 7 m from me, picked from the rock a jiant stone 70- 80 kg and few with it. The belay was all right, and I wondered if the nervious system can restore.
On the next pitch which, I guess, was the last one, it was as much moving stones, as on the whole previous overhang. For orientation several bolts are placed.
I climbed to the ledge which turned to a 30- 40 cm crack. It was blowing cold there, and I climbed to the left through the unit which occured a sharp tooth in its upper part. Then it is a ledge with 2 cracks starting from it. To the right it goes a wide destroyed crack, and to the left it is solid, but AID one. I chose free climbing, and it was a real mistake. To reach the plateau I had to pass only 15 m , but they could become the most difficult on the whole route. I climbed about 10 m , and then stopped. The crack was like a cake, filled with slabs, stones, feathers. In its upper section it overhang, and I fixed myself with the last hex and began to think.
Suddenly I heard a voice just over me:
Rope appears. I clip quickly and ascend last 8- 10 meters .
On my opinion, the route is too dangerous to be recommended to anybody.
R0-R1 ~ 50 m , 5 а
Totally 235- 240 m . Overhangs up to 130 % starting from R3
working time 8-10 hours
Team: Dmitry Popov, Alexander Kuzmitcky made a new route by a logical red corner which was called «Pressure»(6А, 7а, А3) length 300 m with overhangs up to 125-130%.
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