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Àâòîð: Sergey Seliverstov, Kyrgyzstan
First Winter Ascent of Peak Korzhenevskaya, 7105m, via South Face
Team:
Sergey Seliverstov – Kyrgyzstan, Teamleader
Alexei Usatykh - Russia
Roman Abildaev – Russia
Semen Dvornichenko – Kyrgyzstan
Our team had climbed a new route on Korjenevskaya peak. Difficulty of this line consist of constantly moving icefall, among which it follows. Icefall moving often creates huge ice avalanches. Air-blast of such avalanches usually reach the base camp at “Moskvina Glade”. But winter ascent supposed more stable consistence of the icefall. Few small breaks happens on icefall during ascent, but always on safe distance from the group.
17th of January – Ascent start. Leaving base camp and taking over Moskvina glacier teared by many crevasses. Approach to a glacier falling from South – East slopes of Korjenevskaya peak. Wind speed is 60km/hour, snowfall, air temperature is -30C. Spend night on 5030m.
18th of January – Ascent along highly fractured icefall, getting over large crevasses. Strong wind (gust up to 80-90 km/hour), air temperature is -30C. Camp at 5560 among crevasses.
19th of January – Continue solving technical problems on icefall. Ascent to 5800, night on cut ice ledge. Wind 50-60km/hour, air temperature -30...-35 C
20th of January – Climb ice wall leading to shoulder at 5900m. Then traverse by crumbled rocks, 3 pitches of 50m. Problems to arrange proper belay. Then crumbled rock wall, 2 pitches by 50m, 60-80 degrees steepness, with small overhangs. Parts of ice terrain after second pitch. 50 m along ice wall and then horizontal traverse by steep ice(around 60 degrees) till icefall part of the wide glacier that falls from the summit: 150m. Camp was established at 6000m on flat ledge among crevasses. Air temperature during the day is -25...-30 C, wind up to 40km/hour. Weather starts to improve.
21th of January – Difficult solution to find a way among 4 steps of the icefall. Air temperature during the day is -30...-35 C, wind up to 40km/hour. Establish camp in a trough of the right part of the glacier at 6450m.
22th of January – Summit assault and return to camp 6450m. Ascent along covered glacier, getting over big crevasses, solution of the way. Some avalanche danger parts meets on altitudes between 6650 and 6800. Reach the summit at 12-30, in conditions of strong wind (around 50km/hour. Air temperature is 35...-40 C. Working without balaclava is impossible. Descent to 6450 at 16-30 approximately.
23th of January – descent along ascent way in conditions of cold temperatures (-35.. .-40 C) and growing wind (60km/h with gust up to 80km/h). Manage to descent to 5400. But main technical part is behind. Descent using self-releasing ice-screw system. Abalakov slings fails on crumbling ice.
24th of January – Continue descent . Return to Base Camp on Moskvina glade at 12-00
New route is called “Ol’cha” in memory of our friend – Olga Goroganina. |
Ïðè ââîäå Ëîãèíà è Ïàðîëÿ,
