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Author: Sergey Dashkevich, Yekaterinburg
Photo of: Sergey Dashkevich, Eugene Novoseltcev

FA 6А. Cape Aya, May 2007

The wall of cape Aya peak is the longest one in Crimea with a half-kilometer height. There are several routes on the main part of the face. All of them are more than 5B grade. Also there is a clear climbing multipitch till the middle of the wall. On one of the previous trips Jenya Novoseltcev saw an interesting line for the first ascent. A difficult vertical lower part, crossed by two cornices and damp solid slabs in the central part of the route impressed us. The route looked quite severe and interesting.

The route goes along the right part of the wall vertically upwards. Start is in 15 m to the right from the climbing multipitch line. Rocks here are similar to Koshka mountain in Simeiz: small caverns allow to climb because of good friction. First 5 pitches are crux ones. They are abrupt with rare terrain. Climbing and organizing self-belay isn't possible. Difficult AID on the relief sky hooks, sometimes hole sky hooks in small caverns. They also are left for belay. Then the terrain becomes richer and the rocks become easier, that allows free climbing.

The route is very interesting, not worse than «Мачомбо» “Machombo” or «Двадцать лет спустя » “20 years later” on the famous Morcheka. Grade is 6A.

The team chose the easiest alpinist style. In the evening we made 1 pitch for fastening of the ascent, for not to spend night on the wall. We used 2 ropes, and we advise it to next ascenders, because the rocks are sharp and the rope can be cut while break. We also had one pair of hooks for feet, one ladder, 2 hammers, set of stoppers, hexes, 6 anchors, 4 petalous hooks, relief and hole sky hooks, stationary bolts for belays and portable ones 8 mm ( 2,5 cm и 1 cm ). it is quite small set for the first ascent, but it is enough.

On first 5 pitches belays are strengthened by stationary 8 mm bolts. Near something can be placed or portable 8mm 2.5 cm bolt is placed. On next pitches belay can be made without bolts.

Good luck!


Region – Crimea, 8.2

Peak – Cape Aya, Route « Блик » “Blik” along the right part of SW wall through the cornices offering – 6 А grade, FA

Sort of the route – rocky

Route characteristics:

Route height – 440m.
Route length – 540m.
average abruptness – 73°.
length of 6A grade sections – 155m., 5 grade– 150m.

Left on the route: stationary bolts - 4

Bolts used on the route:

Stationary bolts – 4
portable bolts - 9
anchor ones- 28
petalous ones - 3

AID used – 77, relief sky hooks – 40, hole sky hooks - 6
working hours - 18, days – 2
nights - 1.

In a party of 2

Participants: Sergey Alexandrovich Dashkevich, candidate to the master of sports
Novoseltcev Eugene Leonidovich, master of sports

Team trainers:

Pershin Valery Nicolaevich, ЗМС, ЗТР

Date of the ascent:

The ascent - May 6 2007.

To the peak - May 7 2007.

Return - May 8 2007.

Organization: ФАиС Sverdlovsky region .

Cape Aya. «www.mountain.ru»

the wall with route line

Tecknical photo

Scheme UIAA

Section R1-R2. climbable corner

the same place from the side.
AID on relief sky hooks

About the route:
From «Laspi» sanatorium go 20 minutes along the path 100 meters before the end of the path ascend to the big break in the right part of the wall.

Section 0-1 Go along the chimney on the opposite side of the break to the big comfortable grassy ledge. 35 м , 80 degrees, IV ( fr 5). Easy climbing. Belay by trees.

Section 1- 2 In the beginning of the second pitch there is a pointer with note « блик » (blik). Go upwards along the corner and to the left to 2 cornices. Just above the next cornice there is a hanging belay. On 1 stationary and 2 portable bolts. Difficult AID on relief sky hooks. Sometimes hole sky hooks и are useful for the natural caverns. Sometimes they are left for belay. There are sections, where you have to climb and then again AID. 50 м , 88 degrees, VI ( fr 6 b +), A 4. For belay we used portable bolts 8 mm 1 и 2,5 cm, sometimes middle stoppers and anchors.

Section 2-3. Length 45m (75° ). Move upwards and to the right along the slabs to the big ledge. Belay is on the tree. VI ( fr 6b ), А 3. Move mainly on relief sky hooks, for belay use portable bolts. After 30 meters there is a boulge –free climbing is possible.

Section 3-4. Length 60 м (70° ). Move upwards along the slab by free climbing till the ledge and then along the corner till the well seen tree. In the corner there is a crack where in some places different hexes can be placed. From the ledge till the beginning of the corner AID А 3 on hole and relief sky hooks. Hole sky hooks are left for belay. Along the corner AID А 2- А 3, sometimes climbing V – VI. Belay is near the tree (it proved not strong) on 2 stoppers and a stationary bolt. Come till the interim ledge.

Section 4-5. Length 50 м (85° ). From the ledge go upwards along he crack on your left from the well seen black split. Ib the beginning climb 7 м through the fragile rocks to the base of the solid slab. There a portable bolt is placed. Then move upwards to the crack on the relief sky hooks. The crack is bad. Anchors are placed on half a cm, rarely on 1 cm – then they are left for belay. In the end of the crack traverse to the left 7 м . For belay у it is a relief sky hook. VI ( fr 6 b +), А 3- А 4. Belay is on the stationary bolt, anchor и nut.

Section 5-11 . Then terrain becomes easier (it appears). Easy climbing IV - V. Move upwards and to the left through the logical terrain 300 м, 70 degrees.

R1-R2 end of the pitch in the darkness

Novoseltcev comes
by the lines to R2

view of R2 from below

Beginning of R2-R3

R3-R4. Move on hole and relief sky hooks along the corner. Belay on the tree. Move on R4-R5.

R4-R5. AID along the crack with relief sky hooks. Below a level of friable rocks is seen

Ascent by lines on R4-R5.

Sergey Dashkevich on R5.
Move upwards by easy terrain.

Sky hook, left for belay before
the ascent to R5

Novoseltcov on R5-R6.
Terrain became much easier,
but it darkened.
For the acceleration moved with one rope

plateau after 15 hours of nonstop

Novoseltcov on R8.
habitual to us climbing with lights

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