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Author: Sergey Dashkevich, Yekaterinburg
Photo of: Sergey Dashkevich, Eugene Novoseltcev
FA 6А. Cape Aya, May 2007
The route goes along the right part of the wall vertically upwards. Start is in 15 m to the right from the climbing multipitch line. Rocks here are similar to Koshka mountain in Simeiz: small caverns allow to climb because of good friction. First 5 pitches are crux ones. They are abrupt with rare terrain. Climbing and organizing self-belay isn't possible. Difficult AID on the relief sky hooks, sometimes hole sky hooks in small caverns. They also are left for belay. Then the terrain becomes richer and the rocks become easier, that allows free climbing.
The route is very interesting, not worse than «Мачомбо» “Machombo” or «Двадцать лет спустя » “20 years later” on the famous Morcheka. Grade is 6A.
The team chose the easiest alpinist style. In the evening we made 1 pitch for fastening of the ascent, for not to spend night on the wall. We used 2 ropes, and we advise it to next ascenders, because the rocks are sharp and the rope can be cut while break. We also had one pair of hooks for feet, one ladder, 2 hammers, set of stoppers, hexes, 6 anchors, 4 petalous hooks, relief and hole sky hooks, stationary bolts for belays and portable ones 8 mm ( 2,5 cm и 1 cm ). it is quite small set for the first ascent, but it is enough.
On first 5 pitches belays are strengthened by stationary 8 mm bolts. Near something can be placed or portable 8mm 2.5 cm bolt is placed. On next pitches belay can be made without bolts.
Region – Crimea, 8.2
Peak – Cape Aya, Route « Блик » “Blik” along the right part of SW wall through the cornices offering – 6 А grade, FA
Sort of the route – rocky
Route height – 440m.
Left on the route: stationary bolts - 4
Bolts used on the route:
Stationary bolts – 4
AID used – 77, relief sky hooks – 40, hole sky hooks - 6
In a party of 2
Participants: Sergey Alexandrovich Dashkevich, candidate to the master of sports
Pershin Valery Nicolaevich, ЗМС, ЗТР
Date of the ascent:
The ascent - May 6 2007.
To the peak - May 7 2007.
Return - May 8 2007.
Organization: ФАиС Sverdlovsky region .
About the route:
Section 0-1 Go along the chimney on the opposite side of the break to the big comfortable grassy ledge. 35 м , 80 degrees, IV ( fr 5). Easy climbing. Belay by trees.
Section 1- 2 In the beginning of the second pitch there is a pointer with note « блик » (blik). Go upwards along the corner and to the left to 2 cornices. Just above the next cornice there is a hanging belay. On 1 stationary and 2 portable bolts. Difficult AID on relief sky hooks. Sometimes hole sky hooks и are useful for the natural caverns. Sometimes they are left for belay. There are sections, where you have to climb and then again AID. 50 м , 88 degrees, VI ( fr 6 b +), A 4. For belay we used portable bolts 8 mm 1 и 2,5 cm, sometimes middle stoppers and anchors.
Section 2-3. Length 45m (75° ). Move upwards and to the right along the slabs to the big ledge. Belay is on the tree. VI ( fr 6b ), А 3. Move mainly on relief sky hooks, for belay use portable bolts. After 30 meters there is a boulge –free climbing is possible.
Section 3-4. Length 60 м (70° ). Move upwards along the slab by free climbing till the ledge and then along the corner till the well seen tree. In the corner there is a crack where in some places different hexes can be placed. From the ledge till the beginning of the corner AID А 3 on hole and relief sky hooks. Hole sky hooks are left for belay. Along the corner AID А 2- А 3, sometimes climbing V – VI. Belay is near the tree (it proved not strong) on 2 stoppers and a stationary bolt. Come till the interim ledge.
Section 4-5. Length 50 м (85° ). From the ledge go upwards along he crack on your left from the well seen black split. Ib the beginning climb 7 м through the fragile rocks to the base of the solid slab. There a portable bolt is placed. Then move upwards to the crack on the relief sky hooks. The crack is bad. Anchors are placed on half a cm, rarely on 1 cm – then they are left for belay. In the end of the crack traverse to the left 7 м . For belay у it is a relief sky hook. VI ( fr 6 b +), А 3- А 4. Belay is on the stationary bolt, anchor и nut.
Section 5-11 . Then terrain becomes easier (it appears). Easy climbing IV - V. Move upwards and to the left through the logical terrain 300 м, 70 degrees.
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