(28.01.2019) Two new routes on the north face of Ordzhonikidze, 4410 mThere are no walk-downs from the summit of Ordzhonikidze. The easiest route is Russian 2B or French PD. On the icy north face were three existing routes, the first by Alexander Kolegov’s team in 1956. Much later, Vassily Pivtsov and various friends added two more, in 2000 and 2004. All these were 4A or 4B
Saving Chief Mate Gukov
Part IIIGukov, what about Gukov? My lively imagination was presenting a picture of him dying there on his ledge.
Little by little.
Life is going to seep out of him over a long, long time because he is healthy, not injured, and the weather is relatively warm
Author Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU Translation Maria Samsonova, Ekaterinburg
(14.11.2016) Grandes Jorasses“Nothing happens by chance, everything happens for a reason”, that’s what was on my mind as Roma and I got on the Freboudze glacier in the early summer 2016. We were looking at the east face of the Grandes Jorasses and we already imagined ourselves climbing there
Text by Maxim Foygel, Krasnodar Photos Maxim Foygel and Roman Gorodischenskiy
(26.10.2016) Moveable Feast. Thalay Sagar 2016As far as I know, nobody has ever climbed North face of Thalay Sagar without using portaledge. We, on the contrary, ceased using portaledge after "No Fear" on Trango Nameless. It was a sort of extra challenge for us this time – try to make it with a tent for 2 personsjazz-music.net
Author Dmitry Golovchenko, Moscow
(25.10.2016) Tibet – West Nyenchen Tanglha expedition reportRecently Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson and Marcus Palm came back from a successful exploratory expedition in Tibet, where they made a first ascent of Jang Tsang Go (6300 m) in West Nyenchen Tanglha mountain range that is mainly unvisited area
Àâòîð: Domen Kastelic, Slovenia
(16.12.2015) Cerro San Lorenzo: three new routes by Slovenian alpinists in PatagoniaIn November 2015 a team of five Slovenian alpinists Dejan Koren, Bostjan Mikuz, Rok Kurincic, Domen Petrovcic and Domen Kastelic spent a month in the area of Cerro San Lorenzo, the second highest peak in Patagonia. They established three new routes: Direct Route in Cerro Hermoso's southwest face (TD-, 1100 m Petrovcic, Kastelic), No fiesta in Cerro San Lorenzo's East Face
Author: Manca Cujez, Slovenia
(18.11.2015) Talung 7349m, first ascent via NNW spurAt the beginning of acclimatization phase we came up to our spur to look at it and to see the quality of the ice and rock. Even after looking at the first pitches we realized that it would be something like Chamonix mixed climbing but with heavy packs higher than 6000 m and during a week!
Autor: Mikhail Fomin, Nikita Balabanov, Ukraine
(17.11.2015) Kok-Shaal Too 2015
Short historyIdea was that all 3 teams could work independently. For that purpose Grigoriev joined second team for acclimatization period, 3rd team were climbing easiest lines while me and Nilov were doing reconnaissance of major goal. One of unpleasant surprises: we found garbage with dates of 2010 and 2011 on glacier under South East face of the mountain
(16.10.2012) Morcheka: Restoration worksI must say that for me personally, it wasn’t the Internet where the whole unsavory story began, but directly under Morcheka, on a hot September day, when reaching to the wall and getting ready for the route, I caught a glimpse of fixed ropes braced the ground up to the top of the wall, directly across the central tower
Author: Aleksey Shelkhakov (Morcheka first ascentionist) Crimea
(6.09.2012) OUT OF REALITY
(Dodo Kopold)Another long day. Michal went in bed at 2 AM. Sorry, not in bed but in haulbag. And I sat on a small ledge where sparrows rest.