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Автор: Andrei Tihiplav, alpinist club “Odessa”
Crimea, Ay-Petri, alpinist route 3 B grade
Among the most of Crimean alpinist routes this route is notable for heterogeneous sections. It has sections where you can go on foot in bunches with shortened rope (the most self-confident can go without rope), and there is a difficult climbing section where skills of vertical climbing are needed, as well as making belay.
One of the advantages of the route is its length. Ay-Petri is almost twice higher than such well-known Crimean mountains with alpinist routes as Forossky Kant, Kush-Kaya and others.
When ascending in winter the temperature difference between the foot and the summit.
From Yalta drive by minibus 26 or 42 to the place where the ropeway crosses the road. From the road go through the forest to the second station of the “Miskhor-Ay-Petri” ropeway.
From the station go along the glade, then along the path through the forest (there are many buildings like cottages, but the forest is a reserved area), go upwards and little to the left directing to the S face of Ay-Petri to the well seen rock section with a hole in its upper part in a form of Africa, which is bordered by the buttresses on both sides. The beginning of the route is directly under the right buttress (a destroyed ledge goes to the left – it is the first section of the route.
R0 - R1 From the beginning of the route go along the inclined destroyed ledge 20-30 cm wide to the bastion of the west buttress. Belay by the terrain. 30 m, 45-60 degrees .
R1-R2 R1- two bolts are placed, you won't pass them. Then go along the ledge to R2. 30 m, 45-60 degrees.
R2-R3 R2 is the same, 2 bolts are placed. Then go along the same ledge to R3. Here you will meet a small vertical section 3-4 m, belay wits nuts is needed. 25-30 m, 45-80 degrees.
R3-R4 After the inclined destroyed ledge R0-R3 a wide stone-slipping ledge begins (30-80 m) under the bastion of the western buttress (inclining 15-30 degrees). R3 is on the tree in the beginning of the ledge under the buttress. Then go along the stone-slipping ledge along the western face of the bastion. The couloir in its lower part looks wide and inclined, in the upper part it is becomes narrow and straight. In the lower and middle parts there are pine-trees.
R4-R5 Go upwards along the couloir (in the beginning of the couloir there is an inclined section, going on foot is possible, in the middle climbing shoes are needed). R4 is on the big tree in the beginning of the couloir. Belay in the end of the section is hard! (narrow chimney) An old bolt is placed, but it isn't reliable.
35 m, 60-80 degrees. Grade is III-IV+
R5-R6 The crux section of the route. Go upwards along the couloir R5 is on the big tree (belay is uncomfortable, half-hanging). In the middle of the section the couloir quickly becomes narrow and the terrain becomes almost vertical. Belay with nuts!
30 m, 70-90 degrees. V+ grade.
R6-R7 R6 Belay is on the ridge – the upper section of the western butters on the big tree (just under the couloir). Then go on short rope through easy terrain to a stone-slipping slope of middle steepness, traversing along the left side of the western buttress to the upper tower of Ay-Petri to the entry of a narrow couloir under SE face of the upper tower -250 m, 20-30 degrees. Then go along the narrow, stone-slipping couloir with small walls (including a small 2m wall on the entry) to the bridge under the upper tower.
Dander of falling stones ! 50-70 m , 50-60 degrees . From the bridge the upper station of the ropeway is seen .
R 7- R 8 Go to the left and upwards along the SE face of the upper tower (ledges, moving stones!) to the summit (belay is difficult, but sometimes it is needed). 40-50 m, 70-80 degrees, III-IV grade.
Go to the observation point and descend.
Descend by the ropeway or along the ascent line (apseil on double rope, using trees). If 60- m rope is used, there are no problems with descend belays. If rope is shorter, descend loops can be needed.
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