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Author: Anatoly Brunza, Dnepropetrovsk
The deion of the alpinist routes
The most popular peak in Crimea , Forossky Kant is situated in the South-Western part of the Crimean coastline, near Foros village.
The summit was explored by the young Dnepropetrovsk alpinists in the beginning of 70-th. First Ascenders include A.Grishkevich, brothers A. and V. Volkodav, P. Denisenko, who made the most well-known routes. A bit later a legendary Crimean alpinist Yuriy Lishaev (Fantik) fith his friends bolted many of these routes. Taking into consideration the fact that there were no perforators and everything was made by hands, on pure enthusiasm, it was a selfless labour. Then the massif became very popular among the alpinists. One can easily reach the summit from Yalta and Sevastopol, install a camp near the routes, easily come to the start of the routes and descend from the plateau.
The most difficult and interesting routes go along its South-Eastern face, and this process continues due to the industrial way. The routes made nowadays are described by the authors and placed on the site. Below there are the deions of the earliest routes. They were described in my guide-book “Forossky Kant”, 1991.
Several routes “are bolted so well” that it facilitated them. The classical variation of the routes №7 and №11 now can be estimated as 5 А .
the route №16 ( ПК ) is very popular among the beginners. The full name of this route isn't «The right edge”, but “ П ---- ц котенку ”. This informal name was given by the FA Dnepropetrovsk students, who got into a scrape on this route.
The approach to the routes №1 and №2 start from the road approximately in 400 m to the west from the alpinist camps under Forossky Kant. Approach to the other routes starts just from the camps.
You can descend from the peak approximately in an hour, moving to the west along the marked path, descending on the road to Bidaru.
From the turn of the road go firstly along the path, then by easy rocks go to the right from the abrupt face till the big horizontal ledge. Go 20 m along it to the left (R0: 50 m , 40 °, б / к 50 m, 50 °, I).
On the section R1-R2 (it is a crux one!) – firstly go upwards along the abrupt 10-meter wall and then to the left by the narrow corner to the beginning of the long inclined ledge, which crosses at an angle the center of the Western part of the massif. Go along the ledge a bit upwards and to the left to the trees (R1-R2: 10 m, 75 °, IV 15 m, 70 °, III 10 m, 60 °, I).
On the section R2-R3 – go along the ledge upwards-to the left 80 m до неявно выраженного buttress а ( R2-R3: 80 m , 50-60 °, I).
On the last section go upwards by easy rocks of the Western side of the buttress till the plateau. Small walls are bypassed by the ledges (R3-the summit: 160 m, 60-50°, I).
Variation (2А ): On the last section move upwards little to the right from the buttress (R3'-the summit: 200 m , 60-70°, I-II).
The length of the main part of the route is about 210 m.
Time of the route is 2 – 3 hours.
From the turn of the road go firstly along the path, then by easy rocks go to the right from the abrupt face to the middle of the buttress, 10 m lower the long and big crack. There is the belay on 3 climbing hooks. (R0: 50m, 40 °, б/к 50m, 50 °, I).
On the section R1-R2 (the crux of the route!) –go firstly upwards 10 m till the abrupt crack, and then go along it. In its middle part there is a big tree. Above the crack there is a big pine-tree, well seen from below. There the belay point is(R1-R2: 50 m, 70 °, IV).
On the section R2-R3 go upwards and to the left 40 m by the big corner, turning into a chimney ( R2-R3: 50 m , 60 °, II).
На section х R3-R4-R5 go upwards and little to the left by the corners and small walls. Then the rock abruptness reduces (R3-R5: 150 m , 60-70 °, II).
On the last section go upwards and to the right about 100 m by easy rocks till the plateau (R5-the summit: 100 m , 60-50 °, I).
Length of the main part of the route is about 400 m .
Time of the route is 2 – 3h.
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