Angara-Burun along the right part of Angarskaya wall, 4А (90 m, V) / English. Climbing / Mountain.RU


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Angara-Burun
along the right part of Angarskaya wall, 4А (90 m, V)

In spite of the fact that Angarskaya wall of Chatur-Dag is well seen from the Angarsky pass, few people know that it has several routes from 2 to 5 grades. In its right part there is a three grade route which is described in “Crimean Alps” in 1968. This route is rather interesting but is visited rarely.
I send this route about 30 years ago with guys from the group of Dnepropetrovsk institute of railway transport which I trained.
From the Angarsky pass go to the west to Angarskaya wall, first along the asphalted road, which turns into the earth road, then the path in the wood. The approach takes about 1.5 hour. The route goes along the right part of the wall.

On R0-R1 section go upwards along the right side of the overgrown “triangle” which is well seen from the foot of the wall, then to the yew tree under the chimney. Rocks are much destroyed (35 m, III, 700).

On R1-R2 section go 40 m upwards along the vertical chimney. Belay is through bolts and nuts. From it go 10 m to the left and upwards till the small ledge (40 m, V, 800 10 m, III, 700).

On R2-R3 section go 60 m upwards and to the left till the belay (“carrot-bolt” and bolt) (60 m, IV, 800). Then a left pass to the overgrown ledge begins. Go to the left along it to the two chimneys. The left one is easier, but we ed other variation.

On R3-R4 section go 60 m upwards along the abrupt destroyed rocks to the ledge (55 m, V, 800). From it you can go to the couloir and descend.

On R4-R5 section go upwards along the destroyed ridge. First go along its left part, then straight to the top of the wall. Here the alpinist part of the ascent ends (55 m, IV, 700).

Then go 300 m to the left and upwards along the poor path to the upper plateau of Chaturdag near Angar-Burun peak. Descend along the path in the south-eastern part of the upper plateau. The length of the main part of the route is 260 m. Ascent takes 4 hours.

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