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Simone Moro Announces his New Winter Project: Makalu
Few hours ago I announced my next winter project and here you can find all detail about my next expedition.
• The departure date will be in the Christmas days and the potential duration of the expedition will be 3 months ( respecting the role of the winter season /21 st December – 21 st march)
• First we will go in The Khumbu valley to trek and acclimatize and than we will go to Makalu Base Camp. I'm still thinking which route we will follow and this decision will be taken under the mountain in order to the condition of the face. I like the Kukuczka route but let's see how it is. Also the normal route is one of the oprion.
• No Sherpa, No oxygen and very limited use of eventual fix rope. So it will be a super light style expedition
• 21 st march will be the last potential day of our stay on the mountain
• Will be realized a FULL HD videos and Photos during all the climb
• Official sponsor will be THE NORTH FACE
• Nima Nuru Sherpa leader of Cho Oyu Trekking will be our local trekking agency and organizer
Makalu in Winter. History
Four people formed the next expedition led by Krzysztof Wielicki on 1998. Anna Czerwiсska, Ryszard Pawіowski and Ingrid Bayens from Belgium were with him. At the time Wielicki was among the best of Himalaists. His achievements included winter conquests of Mount Everest, Kanchenjunga and Lhotse, marking new routes from bases into the peaks of the Himalayan giants within 24 hours. He also got acquainted with the route of the first conquerors of Makalu leading through Makalu La.
"We aimed really high - said Wielicki - we thought that everything was possible, even a four-person winter attack of so vast and windy mountain. We chose the classic route through Makalu La, which appeared difficult due to its length. We got lost in a blizzard. In mid-January we had enough of it. This was however a great school of Himalaism. Every one of us stood at the top of the Everest".
On or about January 27, 2006 , the French mountaineer Jean-Christophe Lafaille disappeared on Makalu while trying to make the first winter ascent. Makalu is one of the harder eight-thousanders, and is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock climbing. Makalu is the only Nepalese 8,000 m peak which has yet to be climbed in true winter conditions.
The 3 rd February 2008 Kazakh climbers Denis Urubko, Serguey Samoilov and Eugeny Shutov, have been struggling to complete the first Winter ascent of Makalu, but the high winds and harsh weather, have continually turned them back.
Date of Birth 27 October 1967
2008 First ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok 6940 m (Pakistan) in pure alpine style and in 43 hours only go/back
2008 Attempt the first winter climb of Broad Peak 8047 m. Stooer at 7840 m
2007 Attempt the first winter climb of Broad Peak 8047 m. Stopped at 7100m
2006 20 th May Everest 8850. First solo south-north traverse. Summit at 3.15 a.m. and descent to base camp in 5 hours only
2005 14 th January Shisha Pangma south face. First ever winter climb to the summit 8027 m along the Yugoslavian route. Historical climb!!!!
2004 Shisha Pangma south face in winter 8027 m First climb of the face and
2003 The 9 th January receive from UNESCO the Pierre de Cubertin Trophy and the gold medal from Italian President Azeglio Ciampi (for rescue 2001).
2002 the 25 th Decembre Vinson 4897mt Antartica the 9 th May Cho Oyu 8201mt in 10,30 hours!
2001 April may Attempt to Everest-Lhotse traverse. Stopper the climb to rescue english climber serously injured. Winner for the David A. Sowles award from American Alpine Club
2001 February first winter climb of Marble wall 6400 mt in Thien Shan
2000 April-May climbed Everest 8850. Summit. 5 days without oxigen over 8000!
1999 July-August climbed Pik Lenin 7134, Pik Korjenevska 7105, Pik Kommunism 7495, Pik Khan Tengri 7010. It is the second time of all time someone do it!
1997 December Annapurna 8091 south face. Avalanche accident at 6300 mt.
1996 October 11, Shisha Pangma, 8008 meters, N.Summit
1995 April, Kancghenjunga 8596 meters, stopped 7600 mt, bad weather.
1994 October 11, Lhotse 8516 meters, Speed ascent from 6300mt, 17 hours
1993 August 13, Aconcagua 6962, Winter Speed ascent, 13 hours. Before tried the south face and stopped at 6200 mt, avalange.
1992 October, Everest 8848, stopped at 7400 mt.
1985 -1992 Professional climber in the Italian Rock climbing Federation. Between
1987 and 1989 climbed more than 30 route of 8a and 8b+ (5.13a / 5.14a).
1980 Began Mountainering in Alps.
1997 Become UIAGM Mountain Guide.
1996 Professional Mountaineer and rock climber, Coach of Italian climbing team.
1995-97 Partecipate at the Mountain Guide Course and school in Italy.
1990-91 Graduate like lieutenant in Italian Mountain Army.
1985-92 Professional climber in Italian rock climbing federation.
2003 Become doctor of sport science (degree abaut “Extreme altitude Climbs”)
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