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Author: Kisluy V.V., Oleynik S.V.

Route "Gates" on Cape Aya

The route “Gates” is called so because of peculiar cornices in the middle of the massif. You should climb between these cornices and even climb on the right one.

About the route:
On photo 1 only 7 pitches are marked, the upper part is badly seen because of taking photo from below. You can also use photo in link, there the upper part is well seen.

route line
1 st pitch (photo 1. R0-R1) starts from the wide crack through the mould with bolt, which is seen from the ground. Belay – middle nuts, then the wide crack where big camalots are needed: #4 in the beginning of the crack and #5 BD. The crack can be passed quite easily. It leads you to the right and becomes narrower, follow it, and you reach the belay. Belays are good on 6 pitches, with 2 bolts. On the 1 st pitch you meet 3 bolts and 1 hook, it facilitates the ascent well. f6b, 35 m

3rd pitch view from the belay
2 nd pitch.( photo 1. R1-R2) Go to the right a bit and upwards from the belay, to one more crack. It is much narrower than the previous, there are 2 bolts. Go to the left and upwards to the ledge where the belay is.

f6a+, 30 m.

beauty around
3 rd pitch (photo 1. R2-R3)

Go upwards to the bolt, then to the right and upwards. The main part goes along the nail walls, so it is run-out, I placed middle nuts. There are bolts on the route, but they aren't seen well. Local titanic hook is placed, but you need a cable to clip it (nut can be placed). Choose simple parts and move upwards. Using 2 ropes is reasonable. Good climbing is needed.

6th pitch is under the gates
f6b, 40m.

4 th pitch ( photo 1. R3-R4) It is easy, but not very pleasant. Fragile rocks require attention. From the belay go to the left to the tree, then go to the right along the crack. There are no stationary belay points, belay is easy.

f5c, 35m.

5 th pitch. ( photo 1. R4-R5) Go to the right to the tree, then upwards and to the left to the bolt. Then go to the left and upwards to the small overgrown crack. Use nuts. Belay it above it.

f5c, 20m.

View of the other side of the gates
6 th pitch. ( photo 1. R5-R6)

Go along the crack to the right side of the gates. Go upwards along the narrow crack. There are 3 bolts, nuts and friends are useful. A forgotten friend can be met. Bypass the cornice on the left and go along the ledge to the right to the tree where belay is. This belay is the last one where apseil is possible, so think if you have time to reach the peak. If you have little time, it's better to descend. If you have to 60-m ropes, you can reach the 4 th belay. On the first 6 pitches new bolts were placed by A. Jilin. Thanks a lot!

f6b+, 35m.

he doesn’t know what waits for him
7 th pitch. ( photo 1. R6-R7)

Go to the right and upwards to the tree, then a crux section starts. 2 hooks are placed in this place, higher there is an old bolt and a hook. Then go to the right to the big ledge where 2 more bolts are placed, then go to the right along the ledge. The rocks are interesting and the holds are big, but attention: an uncomfortable climbing to the belay (glued hook + tree). To make your life easier, place something in the ledge after the bolts, because it can be pendulum.

f6c, 35m.

Long traverse after the difficult
section. 7-th pitch.
8 th pitch.

Where to move?!
Go upwards to the old and dangerous bolt, then go upwards through the boulge, then go to the right along the ledges and big holds, on this way a bolt and a hook will be met. We went to the right till the ledge with grass and trees.

We didn't find anything except a rusty channel. We made a belay and prepared for night. The ledge is quite wide and comfortable.

f6b, 45m.

9th pitch. The rest of the route we tried to choose the easiest ways and made tree belays. From the camp ledge go upwards and to the left along the ledge to the tree on the left and a bolt near it placed in the crack. Climbing is easy, the main thing is not to break out the holds.

f5b, 25m.

10th pitch. Go upwards along the crack and to the right, using someone's hooks (2) till the next tree above the ledge. Belay is half-hanging.

f6a, 25m.

11 th pitch. Go upwards and to the right, bypassing a small mould. Then go upwards along the crack and to the left, bypassing the overhang. With the help of nuts/friends and loops ascend to the big ledge with a tree in its right side. Here belay is.

f6a, 48m.

12th pitch. Go to the right along the ledge, turn the corner, and ascend by easy rocks to the overgrown ledge with small trees – bushes.

f5a, 20m.

13th pitch. Go to the left and upwards along the big crack to one more tree on the small ledge. It is the last belay.

f5a, 25m.

14th pitch. Go to the right to the plateau.

Sergey is making nest

It’s now supper in prison...

Go upwards through the bushes to the former rocket base. If you pass the route for 1 day, you can spend night there. Then choose right path in the forest and search for the path marked with blue paint which leads to Kush-Kaya. Then descend to the road.

morning meets us with coolness

According to the map,
now we are here!

Our gear:

•  main ropes - 2
•  nuts – widen set
•  set of friends
•  5 camalots
•  5 hooks (used only on night)
•  10 long quickdraws
•  7 loops
•  Carabiners and belay devices

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