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Author: M.S. Panferova, Yalta
Photo: А. Demin, Simeiz

Birth of the route "АLINА" 6b+, 220m

Creation of the route.

Andrew Vedenmeer and Alexander Marinkevich went to Merdven-Kaya. They have already set such difficult and unique routes in Crimea as « Атлант -M», «Day Победы », «Латвия – танец равновесия» (Latvia - the dance of balance), « Фактор страха », «Red Fox», «Shambala», « Луко m орье » and many other ones.

In the first day of preparing the route 2 pitches were made, that was 90 meters of the wall. On the second day they made 2 and a half pitches, 100 meters more were done! On the third day the problems occurred. No more than 30 meters , but where to make the route line? To the right are friable rocks, straight you can reach a deadlock, to the left there are big traverses. As a result the route line was made to the left.

The fourth day was the noisiest! That means cleaning the rocks from moving stones. Giant and little stones fell down. This day other routes were also finished: upper belays were changed. Clue pins were placed on « Сюрприз » (Surprise), « Латвии » ( Latvia ), « Ша m бале » (Shambala), because the previous pins were damaged. Pins were also placed on the upper belay of the new route project.

Please, don't bolt your own routes in Crimea without consulting Andrew Vedenmeer.

Passing the route.

Because of the bad weather the route testing took place only in December, in two weeks after its creation. It was cloudy and fresh, that's why grades can be approximate.

The first pitch was planned till the belay on 45 meters height. But it occurred that it was very hard to move the rope because of friction on traverses. It is recommended not to miss the belay on 20 meters height.

R0 – R1 6 А 20m 6 pins.
R1 – R2 6 В 25m 7 pins.
R2 - R3 5 В 45m 7 pins.
R3 – R4 6 А 41m 8 pins.
R4 – R5 6А 40m 8 pins .
R5 – R6 6В+ 40m 13 pins .

Andrew's impressions as for this route: « А lina» is notable for pleasant climbing and interesting diverse terrain. Climbing isn't difficult, but technical. The route is being ascended on foot, with friction. For those who have climbed «Shambala» and «Red Fox»: « А lina» is something between them not only in its location, but in grade, but it is closer to the second one. All the «belays» are comfortable. The route is well seen because it goes practically in one line. Every 20- 25 meters there are descent rings. Every belay has one clue pin. Helmets are necessary, because there are always moving stones. And if you are the reason of falling stone, don't forget that there are other people below, and say “Stone”

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