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Author: Alexander Lavrinenko ("Odessit") Odessa

«Стрелка» (Strelka) (5А)

«Стрелка» (Strelka) is a blue line on the photo
This well-known route was sent long ago. Nowadays, many bolts become worthless, but the route is yet climbable.

You can reach the route from the Filatova buttress, or just from the road by easy rocks.

The route starts from the corner , leading to the base of " Strelka "(IV+).

Then go upwards along the crack, to the top of " стрелки "(V), belay by new bolts.

Then go upwards by the slab, belay with bolts , sometimes old bolts are used with destroyed hangers, throwing thin cable over them. In 10 meters terrain becomes richer , one can belay with nuts and pins(V+). Belay is on bolts.

From the belay traverse to the left to easy walls (II-III), and go upwards 150m till the summit.

Deion of the route

R0-R1 Easy walls , gentle slabs about 200 meters (40-60° I-II)

R1-R2 The abrupt corner . Belay on nuts , friends. (45m70° IV+)

R2-R3 Abrupt crack , nuts, friends . (40m 80° V)

R3-R4 Abrupt wall. Difficult climbing , sometimes by AID ,belay with bolts , pins , nuts. (45m 85° V+A2)

R4-R5 Easy walls(150m 60 ° II).

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