Uarch-Kaya, the route «Карнавал» (Carnaval) 4B, (10m 6а), 270m / English. Climbing / Mountain.RU


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The deion made by: Alexey Abramov, Moscow

Uarch-Kaya, the route «Карнавал» (Carnaval) 4B, (10m 6а), 270m

September 30 2003

Approach: from the forester's house under Kilse-Buroon go 3,5 кm along the upper road «Chortova Lestnica» (Devil's stairs). Near the second bridge (from the forester's house) you can leave your car. After the memorial go along the well path (the path starts from the note " Оползневское лесничество" (forestry of Opolznevoe village) on the left side of the road, driving from the forester's house), ascend about 3-4 minutes to the direction of «Chortova Lestnica» (Devil's stairs) pass till the South-Eastern ridge – beginning of the route "Сюрприз" (Surprise)1B.

The route «Карнавал»
(Carnaval) line

Beginning of the route "Сюрприз" (Surprise) is marked with blue paint on the wall. Go downwards from the note along the riverbed about 50 meters, then turn to the right and move about 20 m by the wall to the block rocks (a sign is seen a bit later on the face).

R0-R1: ascend to the left by easy block rocks to the ledge with the trees (20m n/c ). Then move 25m along the corner, in the base of it there is a stationary pin (III+, middle and big "stoppers", "friends") go to the right and upwards by middle-grade rocks till the big terrace with a juniper. The belay is on two stationary pins.

20m – non categorized 25m III+

The big block stone – beginning
of the route

R1-R2: After the belay traverse 3 m to the left (pointer is drawn!) by the nail rocks (IV), then move 20m along the corner (III, stoppers, "friends") to the wide vertical crack – the crux section of the route. For a distance of the crack there are three stationary pins. Move on the left side of the crack (10m 5а, 10m 6а, middle "friends") till the belay on two stationary pins. On the crux section after the third pin there is a small, hardly seen chipped hold.

3m – IV 20m – III, 10m – 5a/b, 10m – 6a

R2-R3: Then go to the left and upwards by the inclined crack 50m (5a/5b, middle "friends", two intermediate stationary pins) till the belay on two stationary pins.

50m – 5a/5b

R3-R4: ATTENTION ! From this belay you can easily go upwards to the easy route " Сюрприз " (Surprise)! The right way goes further along thr crack to the left and upwards (35m, 5а, middle and small "friends", interim stationary pin) till the place, where the crack becomes horizontal, then go upwards by the vertical wall to the well seen stationary pin, and then go to the ridge (10m, 4 с ). The belay is on on two stationary pins. Then the route coincides with the route " Сюрприз " (Surprise).

Previous group (Galya and Ira)
on the crux section

35m – 5 а /5b 10m – 4c/5 а

R4-R5: Move along the ridge till the first peak, then descend by easy rocks to the chasm, then go to the right and upwards to the pine-tree(40m б I-II). 40m – I-II

R5-R6: After the pine-tree go 8 m upwards by the abrupt rocks (II+) to the ridge, then by the easy ridge go to the summit (30, n/c – I).

8m II+ 30m – n/c-I

Descent: From the peak go along the path to the right and downwards, then go along the path, leading from «Чертова Лестница» (Devil's stairs) pass till the road (10-15min).

Gear recommended: middle and small "friends"– 5-8, middle "stoppers" 3-5 pc, quickdraws – 10-12. 50m rope.

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