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The deion made by: Alexey Abramov, Moscow
Uarch-Kaya, the route «Карнавал» (Carnaval) 4B, (10m 6а), 270m
September 30 2003
Approach: from the forester's house under Kilse-Buroon go 3,5 кm along the upper road «Chortova Lestnica» (Devil's stairs). Near the second bridge (from the forester's house) you can leave your car. After the memorial go along the well path (the path starts from the note " Оползневское лесничество" (forestry of Opolznevoe village) on the left side of the road, driving from the forester's house), ascend about 3-4 minutes to the direction of «Chortova Lestnica» (Devil's stairs) pass till the South-Eastern ridge – beginning of the route "Сюрприз" (Surprise)1B.
R0-R1: ascend to the left by easy block rocks to the ledge with the trees (20m n/c ). Then move 25m along the corner, in the base of it there is a stationary pin (III+, middle and big "stoppers", "friends") go to the right and upwards by middle-grade rocks till the big terrace with a juniper. The belay is on two stationary pins.
20m – non categorized 25m III+
3m – IV 20m – III, 10m – 5a/b, 10m – 6a
R2-R3: Then go to the left and upwards by the inclined crack 50m (5a/5b, middle "friends", two intermediate stationary pins) till the belay on two stationary pins.
50m – 5a/5b
R3-R4: ATTENTION ! From this belay you can easily go upwards to the easy route " Сюрприз " (Surprise)! The right way goes further along thr crack to the left and upwards (35m, 5а, middle and small "friends", interim stationary pin) till the place, where the crack becomes horizontal, then go upwards by the vertical wall to the well seen stationary pin, and then go to the ridge (10m, 4 с ). The belay is on on two stationary pins. Then the route coincides with the route " Сюрприз " (Surprise).
35m – 5 а /5b 10m – 4c/5 а
R4-R5: Move along the ridge till the first peak, then descend by easy rocks to the chasm, then go to the right and upwards to the pine-tree(40m б I-II). 40m – I-II
R5-R6: After the pine-tree go 8 m upwards by the abrupt rocks (II+) to the ridge, then by the easy ridge go to the summit (30, n/c – I).
8m II+ 30m – n/c-I
Descent: From the peak go along the path to the right and downwards, then go along the path, leading from «Чертова Лестница» (Devil's stairs) pass till the road (10-15min).
Gear recommended: middle and small "friends"– 5-8, middle "stoppers" 3-5 pc, quickdraws – 10-12. 50m rope.
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