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Author: Alexander Litvinenko, Odessa
Chelebi massif is located in the Western part of the Main ridge of Crimean mountains, between “Baydarsky gates” pass and Ilyas-Kaya mountain. Its height is 200 m, altitude – 600 m above sea level. In spite of small height, its central part has 5 routes 5 and 6 grades. They are very popular (for example, Bershov's route – several ascents a day).
Descent is possible on the left or right side of the wall. The left one (looking to the sea) is shorter: go along the precipice of the plateau to “Baydarsky gates” pass about 600-700 m. A group of trees grows near the descent couloir. Go down through the abrupt slide-rocks and then to the left near the wall.
In the deions I used French classification as the most popular in CIS for grade definition of free climbing. Aid parts are estimated according to American system, so grade depends on the quantity of unreliable points, not on the rock steepness.
R1. 40m 85°, 6a A3 Then go 25 m upwards through the inner corner (small and medium nuts), then difficult climbing through the chimney-crack, aid15 m (friends, big hexes), go to the ledge, then difficult climbing 10 m by a narrow vertical corner.
R2. 50 м 85° 6b A2. Then go upwards by inner corners (V), bypassing the cornice on the left, and go to the tree.
3. 50 м 70°V .
"Lunokhood" (Dana) 6А
The most difficult route on Chelebi and, as for me, the most technically rich one in Crimea nowadays.
The route starts several meters right from the big stone, leaned against the wall, from the sign “Kruglov – Lyashenko 99”. Aiding (small nuts, bolts) along the vertical wall with a narrow crack to the bend. Then climbing to the bolt 5 m. Then go upwards 10 m along the crack, aid A3 (nuts). Then climb to the right and upwards to the bolt. From the bolt on sky hooks along the holes go upwards 8 m (2 bolts are placed), the wall overhangs a little. After the last bolt the steepness reduces, climbing is possible. Belay is in 10 m on the ledge (3 bolts).
R1: 40m 90° 6b A3. Then go upwards by the inner corner firstly climbing, then through the bend aiding, then difficult climbing by the slab go to the ledge.
R2, there are 3 bolts. 25m 85° 6a+ A2 Go along the inner corner, then blind crack, difficult aid to the left and upwards 20 m. Then go through the solid slab which overhangs in its lower part, aid (sky hooks for holes, belay-bolts) 25 m. Then climbing along the 5 m patch to the belay.
R3 there are 3 bolts. 50m 85° V+A4. From the belay go upwards by aid (relief sky hook, sky hooks for holes, bolts) to the cornice. Under the cornice traverse to the right (bolts), then to the right and upwards by sky hooks to the bolt. From the bolt climbing V+ to the right 5 m to the crack and along it go 20 m upwards. Belay is on the ledge .
R4 40m 80°V+A3 Go upwards through the system of inner corners (V, nuts, friends) go to the plateau. 30m 70° V
Bershov's route 5B 180m 6b, А 1
R1-R2 : through the inner corner go to the ledge before the overhanging wall with 2 cracks. Go along the cracks, then through the inner corner go to the ledge with 2 bolts. Belay – medium nuts , friends . Belay . 25m 85° V+/6 а
R2-R3: From the ledge go upwards, enter the open overhanging inner corner with a wide crack. Climb through the corner (friends, medium nuts, a bolt) go upwards, enter a chimney. Go along it 10 m upwards to the ledge. Belay is on 2 bolts. 35 m 90° 6а
R3-R4: Go through the inner corner 10 m upwards to the overhang. By AID go through the overhang, there are 2 bolts, enter a chimney. Go 5 m upwards along the chimney, then go to the left side of the chimney. Go 3 m by the wall, then difficult climbing 5-7 m through the narrow chimney (there are 3 bolts). Then the chimney widens, climbing becomes easier, there are several bolts. Belay is on a small tree. 45m 80° 6 в А 1
R4-R5: From the belay go to the chimney, then through the cracks, easy climbing 45m III .
“Dnepropetrovsky” route 6А
Start – an inner corner on the connection of Southern and South-Western walls. Firstly climb through the corner, then AID, 30 m upwards, along the crack, 10 m to the right and upwards. Belay is on 2 bolts . 40 m 90 ° 6а А3
From the belay go 3-4 m to the crack. Go upwards along the crack to the tree. In the lower part climbing is difficult, AID, then it becomes easier. Belay is on the tree. It is desirable to strengthen the belay. 25m 80 ° 6 а А2
Go upwards through the inner corner through the small overhang, then along the crack, go to the long ledge. Belay is on the tree. 40m 80 ° 6 а А1
From the tree go little to the left and upwards through the inner corner, then through the slab with shells go to the right and upwards to the pine-tree. 15 m 70 ° V.
Then through easy rocks go 40 m to the plateau.
Time 5-7 hours.
Route of A. Verba 6A
R0-R1: through the small inner corner go to the ledge. From the ledge go upwards along the narrow vertical crack 10 m AID A2. Then go to the left and upwards through the destroyed rocks, then by the ledge with terraces go to the grotto. Belay. There is a good bolt. 30 m 75 ° V+А2
R1-R2: По нависающей щели вверх. Сильно нависает, но лазание возможно. Встречаются крючья, есть 2 шлямбура. Через 35м крутизна уменьшается до 90° , здесь лазанием влево вверх к гроту. Станция. Шямбур и 2 крюка 45м 100° 6а+А2(чистым лазанием і 7а)
R1-R2: Go upwards along the overhanging crack. It overhangs strongly, but climbing is possible. There are bolts. In 35 m abruptness reduces to 90°, here climb to the left and upwards to the grotto. Belay . Bolt and 2 hooks 45m 100 ° 6 а + А 2(by free climbing 7а)
R2-R3: From the grotto traverse to the right to the inner corner. Go upwards through the corner, then to the left, go to the ledge. From the ledge traverse under the overhang to the right 5-7 m. Belay is on 2 bolts. 35 m 90 ° 6b A2
R3-R4: 5 m by the wall, then by inner corner, go to the ledge with a tree. Belay. 30m 80 ° V+
R4-R6: From the belay go upwards through the slab 15m V, then through the easy rocks 45-50 m to the plateau.
Time 4-7 hours
There were several free climbing ascents.
Information 2004:“One more time a cornice fell on the route of Verba on Chelebi. This time its remainders which remained after the previous stone-slide fell. Now vertical inner corner (between the cornice and the main wall) disappeared. Belay after the corner may also be demolished. But even if the route became unclimbable (temporarily), in any case you can go to “Dnepropetrovsky” route from the upper grotto. By the way, there is a good climbing rope.”
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