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Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
"Renaissance"
Crimea, Treugolnik (Triangle) mountain, along the bastion of the W face's left side 6 А, VI, A3, 400m The route was sent in autumn 2001 by the team from Odessa (Aleksey Jilin, Sergey Kalachev, Alexander Lavrinenko, Vladimir Mogila). Time was 22 working hours (3 days) – 2 days of processing, on the third day all went upwards. The route has many cracks, we used sky hooks only 5 times on all the route.
0- 1 A corner, overgrown in its lower part, is free climbable. Belay: hooks, small and middle stoppers. 30m, 70°, V 1- 2 A vertical wall with a gully, open in its lower part. AID by cracks. Belay is 3 bolts, small stoppers. 20m, 85°, VI, А 3 2-3 Gully with good holds. Nuts, friends. 10m, 80°, V 3-4 Free climbable crack. Hooks, nuts, a bolt. 40m, 70°, V+ 4-5 An inclined ledge with moving stones 5m, 30° 5- 6 A wall, destroyed in its upper part. Difficult climbing. There is a bolt. 10 m, 70°, V+, А1 6-7 Easy, but much destroyed rocks. 10m, 55°, III 7-8 An overhanging wall, difficult AID to the cornice. The cornice is passed through its center along the crack by AID. 2 bolts, hooks, sky hooks, small stoppers. 15m, 90°, VI, А 3 8-9 AID by the crack. Belay: hooks, stoppers, friends. There are 3 bolts. 25 m, 85°, VI, А3 9-10 The corner, then the crack. Free climbing is possible. 3 bolts, nuts, friends. 20 m, 80°, VI, А1 10-11 Destroyed rocks, somewhere there are abrupt walls. Belay is difficult. Hooks, friends. 40 m, 65°, V 11-12 Several overhanging corners, difficult climbing. Friends, nuts. There is a bolt. 30 m , 85°, VI 12-13 Abrupt overgrown corner, difficult climbing. Hooks, nuts. 20 m, 80°, VI 13-14 Corner with the tree, free climbing. Friends, nuts. 30m, 70°, V 14-15 Easy inclined rocks lead to the inclined terrace. 80 m, 50°, II-I 15-16 Go to the right and upwards to the plateau. 150m n/c |
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