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Автор: : Ilya Tchugereev, Moscow
Фото: Ilya Tchugereev, Shtelmashenko Vladimir, Sergeev Andrew
Trip to Croatia
On the first day we decided to warm-up. The program we had was rich as we planned to walk a lot. We went to the national park Paklenica. On the entrance we learnt that entry was chargeable and it one day cost 30 kun (150 rubles), but if you took a season ticket for 5 days, the price reduced twice. Apropos, the ticket could be used during a month, it meant that you shouldn’t go there every day. And there also was a path by the barrier through bushes, in all the cases in the park no one would check your tickets. And generally in Croatia you could choose yourself to pay or not to pay. We paid. The national park was very improved: paths were asphalted, there were small shops, free comfortable toilets, make a long story short, there was comfort. The national park presented a big canyon that started like the canyon of Nikita in the Crimea, but wall slightly became higher and higher and the canyon moved apart, ending with a separately standing leading massif Anica Kuk.
The absolute altitude of it was 712 meters above sea-level, the climb of the wall equals about 400 meters in its central highest part. At the entrance we bought super guide-book of all the Paklenica, with the deion of all sport-climbing lines and alpinistic routes. It cost 150 kun (750 rubles). And we were going, listing the guide and choosing, where we would climb, we turned our heads left and right. Most of the routes were signed downwards. There were different routes: from third grade of difficulty to 8b. But there was specificity. It was only my own opinion. But, if you want to climb the routes 4c+ - 5a! along the overhang! – you have to go to Paklenica. Moreover, the extension of the lines was up to 30 meters. I used to count that all the easy routes we had were called 5a, so I was rather surprised with their classification. But the higher the grade of difficulty was, the more it liked our. And at the level of about 6c+ - 7a it corresponded to the level of routes in Moscow Palace of Children Sport. At any case, in my opinion. The structure of the rock was limestone, like Crimea one, but it was more monolithic for its essence and more interesting for the specialties of the relief. There were absolutely phenomenal vertical gutters, like in America. And at the routes under the cornices stalactites and stalagmites could be come across. There were lots of people in Paklenica, but queue didn’t formed. There were climbers from Germany and Austria most of all. So, who know German well, Paklenica is a very nice place in all cases.
On the first day we didn’t climb steep routes, chose 6a+ - 6b. We were glad we could pass the routes on-sight and got used to climb along such a relief. I enjoyed passing routes of 7a+ grade of difficulty on-sight in the Crimea less.
The next day we decided to pass an alpinistic route and tried our forces. We chose the massif Debeli Kuk – Stup, the route Slovenski (PIPS).
Ii was impossible to descend from Debeli Kuk by path, so we had to descend using special devices. It was necessary to have two ropes of 60 meters long. We had only one (Volodia, my partner, asked me not to took the second rope as he wanted to climb along the route and everyone understood that the harder the rucksack was, the more difficult it was to climb). So, we had to descend with one rope. It was impossible to descend along the classical route of descending with devices, so we went along the line of ascent. We didn’t hit special stations. On the fourth rope I reached the station with great difficulties as it was in a meter below me and the rope “ended at all”. And when I was fastening to the station, I ped the washer. Having remembered myself with unkindly word, I prepared to descend further with the help of only karabiner. I saw Volodia descending to me and at the moment, against a background of sunset, something separated from him and, having not touched the wall (the route had small cornices) fell down passing we. Volodia reached me and, unkindly smiling, said: “My walkie-talkie flew down”. We laughed at each other. We had never had such a route. We went down. Volodia packed the rope and I went to the nearest bushes – according to the experience we got at El Capitan, I hoped to find everything. And here it was – my washer…! And the walkie-talkie…! Without cover and batteries, but it was safe! At the next day we found the cover, too! And the walkie-talkie operated – it was a mystery!
The next morning we went to the bottom of Anica Kuk. We had chosen the route Mosoraski. It was the only cloudy day for all the time we spent in Croatia. And the owner of our apartments didn’t recommend us to make the ascent, but we wanted very much to come to the bottom of the wall and to see the route. And how we could go there without equipment – it was not far in any case. Mosoraski was the most popular route on Anica Kuk. There were nine ropes. But it was possible to reduce the amount of ropes if you climbed to all the extension of the rope and made your own stations. The route could be appreciated as powerful route of 4 grade of difficulty. The highest level of climbing there equaled 5c. Climbing there was pleasant and rather even. In good sunny days it was “high way” along which teams climbed one after another, like in the Crimea on the Foros Kant. There beginning of the route was very unusual: a hypertrophied rocky hook, of about 40 cm long was hammered in the wall and huge steel karabiner hung on it, it was also about 40 cm large, so it was difficult to miss the beginning of that route. We climbed and at that time at about the middle of the route it started raining. And we waited while it stopped staying on the station under the overhang, rounding which the route went. Thankfully, ten minutes later it stopped raining and 15 minutes later more the wall became dry and we went on making our ascent. We reached the top of Anica Kuk and became impressed a lot – I had never seen before such summits. The relief there was simply like on other planets, it looked like most of all a strongly melted glacier with deep cracks, merlons, rocks, upper sides of which looked like razors and saws.
I had never seen before such amount of sand-glasses of all forms and sizes. I told Volodia stories that there mountain trolls and goblins had to live, it was obvious. Along all the gullies, rounding the most ominous a marked path went, from all the routes.
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