IV grade. Streltcov S., Вольский И . - 1986 (variation I)
III-IV grade. Streltcov S. , Streltcov M . - 2003 (variation II)

Tactics advices

Start
Both variations start from the water. So you should observe the recommendations gave in “Oba-na” – 2001, “Pirahna” – 2002 on Arfen peak route deions.

Variation I – easy conditions for start. R1 belay can easily be placed in 10- 12 m above sea level.
V ariation II – first 6- 7 m till the lower “balcony” " (1 м х 1 м ) are vertical. Ascend on sky hooks (with belay from your vessel, for not to drown). From the “balcony” go to the “Wardrobe” ( 2 м х 3 м ) is exceptionally comfortable. Here your haul bag with gear should be taken.

II. About the route:
The drawbacks of variation I (1986) include grade difference between its sections ( от I grade - R5 - R6 to V grade - R1-R2). As a result – transportation of the gear needed in difficult sections (total length 7-9 % ) by quite easy rocks (80 % ).
For leveling the grade, in 2003 V ariation II was passed which made it possible to bypass a vertical ledge by easier rocks.

In summer the wall is sunlit from 11.00. Later it's too hot.

Taking into consideration the route length, it is reasonably to divide it into 2 stages:
First day - R0 - R5
Second day - R5 - R10
In this case it is better to take water resources, food, gear for bivouac and video equipment in advance, from Kazan-Dere or “The lost world” by ledges.

Evacuation ways are described in route “Oba-na”-2001 deion.
On our opinion, route line optimally combines lower and upper wall parts. Gullies that are placed to the west from R3 - R5 ridge are exceptionally rock falling and unfit for climbing.

The rock fall “A” took place in October 2002 and later R6 - R7 sections were not visited. Volume of the rock fall is 2000 m3 .

The route can be made with single 60 m rope (crucial sections – on double one)

Attention! Screamer on sections R0 - R1 - R2 threatens to drowning!

On our opinion, to define its grade finally, we need time and collective. We will take into consideration the start aspect, the length and other indications of difficulty.