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Author: Alexandr Lavrinenko, Odessa
Spirada. Route to the eastern tower. 5a (6a A2)
A. Gilin - C A. Lavrinenko
Spirada mountain is situated above Opolznevoe village. Length of the massif is several kilometers. The most of the massif is 100-150 m high, but several towers are above 200. We chose the very right one because Leha had found an optimal approach in advance and aimed the route line. Approach from the road took 1.5 hours along the glades and earth roads and upwards simply through the bushes.
Places here are wild, the mountain is unvisited, and according to rumour, there is Fantik's route somewhere. The route itself is a logic line along the lip it seemed easier, we guessed it was 4 grade, but we took a lot of gear and were not sorry. As a result it turned out = 220 m 6a A2
0-1 Go upwards through the easy rocks 5-7 m, then there is a difficult traverse to the crack, then go along the crack, bypass the cornice on the left, then through the system of inner corners go to the large grassy ledge. Belay is on your own bolts. 50 m c-6a.
1-2 Go upwards along the ledge, then 20 m upwards through easy rocks. Belay is on your own gear.
2-3 Go upwards along the crack, difficult climbing, bolt belay, in upper part there is a small overhang. Belay is on the ledge, there is a bolt. 40 m 6 a.
3-4 Through the inner corner there is difficult climbing, belay through middle and big friends, go to the horizontal ridge. It is better to make belay to the right of the ridge. 25m 5c-6a.
4-5 Go along the 5-m ridge to the wall and go upwards along the wall, 10 m aiding through the narrow cracks (bolts, relief sky hooks, there is a bolt), then relief becomes is less complicated, climbing is possible. Firstly go upwards through the inner corner, then go upwards and to the left along the crack. Belay is on the inclined area (your own). 50m 6a A2.
5-6 Go to the right and upwards to the beginning of the inner corner, then go the summit. 40m 5c.
Descend via the couloir to the left from the tower. In the upper section there is some easy climbing, then go further through the slide-rocks. Spiradu massif is very rich, rock is mainly solid. Minuses include long approach and lack of water under the wall.
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