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Kush Kaya Routs: Parabola, Balalaika

«Парабола» (Parabola) III grade

Route starts just under the " Integral " (see the deion of " Интеграл " ( Integral ), V grade ).

From the ledge ascend 20 m by the corner, then go to the right and by the next corner go to the big tree — RI.

From the tree ascend 20 m by the cracks (II) and then by the corner ( 20 m, IV) go to the tree growing on the ledge — R2.

Then you can go to the left and along the corner ascend on the big horizontal ledge, or ascend on the same ledge by the right side, by the cracks.

From the right part the ledge ascend by the inclined slabs of the corner to the tree under the yellow cornice — R4.

From the tree go upwards to the destroyed overhangs ( 40 m, III) — R5.

From R5 climb on the left overhang and go upwards by the middle-grade rocks, to the direction of red overhanging crack, till the inclined ledge ( 45 m, III) — R6.

From the ledge go upwards by easy rocks to the plateau.

"
Балалайка" (balalaika) Vgrade

The route starts just under the stepped cornice on the "upper level" of the rock. Ascend along the crack to the tree, growing in 2 meters from the base of the wall, then to the right and upwards by the corner and then go along the crack to the pine-tree - R1.

Pas the cornice on the left, then ascend 10- 15 meters (90 degrees, V) by the corner to the second cornice. After the second cornice, go to the right and upwards to the ledge under the base of the crack. Ascend by the crack, then by the middle grade slabs go to the ledge with the tree ( 25 meters, 70 degrees, III) - R3. Then ascend to the direction of the tree with a loop. Before the tree, go 10 meters upwards and little to the right to the base of much destroyed corner ( 25 meters , 50 degrees, II) - R4.

Ascend 8- 10 meters (V) by the corner to the base of the chimney, then 25 meters (III) along the chimney. Go along the inner part of the chimney and go to the abrupt blocks with traces of rock fall, and then after 5 meters you reach the tree - R5.

Go 150 meters by the slabs of the cup to the upper wall. Move to the direction of the tree, growing in the beginning of narrow inclined crack. Ascend 25 meters by the crack to the left and upwards (75 degrees, IV+) - R7. From point R7 ascend 3 meters to the cornice, then bypassing it on the left, enter the corner. From corner ascend to the right and upwards by the inclined ledge to the tree and then go to the big ledge ( 25 meters, 70 degrees, III) - R8.

Go along the nail slab firstly upwards and to the right, then go 30 meters upwards to the vertical slab (80 degrees, V) - R9. ascend 8 meters (85 degrees, IV) by the break on the left from the slab, then go to the right and upwards 30 meters by the corner with a tree growing in it (65 degrees, III) - R10.

From R10 go upwards 5- 7 meters by the crack, then go along the slab 4 meters to the tree. Bypass the tree on the left and by the nail slabs ascend to the right to the crack. Ascend 10 meters along the crack (IV) - R11. From this point it is 15 meters till the plateau (80 degrees, IV-). There are stationary belay points on the route.


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