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Author: Spiridonov Dmitry, Martunov Sergey, Simferopol, Crimea
Sickle and Three on the Angarskaya wall
Angarskaya wall isn't popular among climbers few even know that it has about 10 routes 2-5 grades. Mainly climbers know only “Acrofobia” – a multipitch route (5A) made by V. Ivanov in 90-th years, but such trad routes like “Sickle” (4B) and “Three” (3A) are unknown.
The obvious advantage of Angarskaya wall is the peculiarity of its climate which allows ascending here in summer without the risk of sunstroke.
Approaches: you can reach the Angarskaya wall by # 51 and 52 trolleybuses or by minibuses to the Angarsky pass. Then go to the “Angarsky pass” tourist base along the asphalted road, after the gates turn to the right and go along the earth road to the wall. After the water spring which crosses the path go upwards to the forest edge where the ski lift is. Here on the right a water spring is where you can fill bottles with water. The road goes along the forest edge and turns to the right and goes through the beech forest to the “Saharnaya golovka” peak. You can install the camp on the pass or go to the right on the peak and descend a little to the comfortable glade with fireplace. Approach with all the gear takes about an hour from the stop. To the routes go along the well seen path about 30 minutes to the wall.
“Sickle” route in memory of Alexander Veselov (4B).
R 1: 52 m, IV. From the sign in memory of Alexander Veselov go upwards along the right side of the implicit chimney to the ledge with beech on it, then go upwards, and little to the left along the overgrown ledges and crack system to the belay bolt.
R 2: 30 m, III , aid А 1+. From the belay go 5 m to the left and upwards, then turn to the right to the aid nail with bolts ( А 1+). The bolts are very old, so free climbing isn't recommended. After the bolt line traverse to the right to the next bolt a bolt is placed in this section, but do not clip in it, as well as in the previous bolt, because of the friction. Belay is on the bolt and “carrot-bolt” under the cornice.
R 3: 45 m, V. Along the narrow ledge bypass the cornice on the right and go upwards along the crack to the destroyed inner corner. From the corner go to the left along the sloping ledges and upwards along the crack to the big ledge with trees belay is on one of them.
R 4: 50 m, III , 5 m – V. From the tree go to the right and upwards, and then go to the left to the small chimney with a bolt on its right side. From the chimney go to the right and upwards along the ledge system to the big area with trees, then go to the left and upwards to the plateau.
Gear : set of nuts, big friends and hexes, 14 quickdraws. 60 m rope is desirable. Time: 2 – 2,5 hours.
«Three» through the chimney (3 А).
R 1: 25 m, II . Easy climbing through the destroyed cracks . There are many moving stones and much grass. Then turn to the right to the solid slab and go along the earth path to the gew.
R 2: 40 m, V . From the gew go to the left through the destroyed section in the bottom of the chimney and go along it 20 m. In its upper section there is an overhang, then a system of destroyed ledges and cracks. The last crack has moving plugs! Above it there is an inclined ledge with talus, overgrown with grass and juniper. Belay is on the ledge or higher in the crack (large hexes).
R 3: 48 m, V . From the belay go upwards along the crack, and then turn to the right, bypassing the crack with dead tree. A small left traverse to the bottom of the crack with nail borders, and then go upwards along it. Belay is on large hexes and friends. After the crack go to the right a bit, then easy climbing to the half-meter grassy ledge with a carrot-bolt placed above on the wall. Belay is here.
R 4: 50 m, III . Go upwards and to the left along the ledge and boulge system to the two bolts of “toilet sink” belay, then go diagonally to the right and upwards. Then easy climbing upwards along the cracks and a couloir.
Gear: big nuts, friends (macro!!!) big hexes, 10 quickdraws.
Time: 3 hours
Descent from the wall is along good path to the Cold couloir, then to the right and down to the beech wood and down along the path. You can also descend along the couloir. One more descent way is along the woody path from the left 2 grade, but it is in bad condition.
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