Report about the ascent of “Strannik” team by the left part of the Chelebi wall (route # 13) during the championship “ ЦСКА ” in name of A.S. Demchenko on FA class

Moscow 2007

Route deion.

From the road Yalta-Sevastopol go past Parus (sail) rock along the path to Chelebi wall , then go along the wall to the left to a distinctive rock tooth 20 m high. Under the tooth there is an area where the route starts. The route starts 35 m to the left from 2 grade route “through the chimneys”. The route consists of 4 sections 30-35 m each.

First pitch (30 m), 3 m ascent, climbing 5 C, then go to the right to the nail section and 15 m ascent with sky hooks to the small inclined slab, go upwards along it and to the right, to the tree and belay on bolts, blocked with chain. On the first pitch belay using spits and a climbing bolt a nut cable can be put through it.

From the belay go upwards to the split 3 m (spits), then traverse to the left along the small ledge with juniper till the vertical corner. Go upwards 8-10 m by the corner (spits), to the small cornice, then go to the left to the wall, a good place for a horizontal climbing bolt. Then go 15-17 m upwards by the wall to the double spits. You can try free climbing (6 с -7 а ). The problem can be only with belay, screwing ears of spits. From the double spits go 10 m upwards to the distinctive crack 3 m, where 2 bolts are placed. From the upper bolt go to the right and upwards to the tree, 20 m climbing 6с -7а , till the ledge on the left from the tree, belay is on bolts. Then go upwards along the crack using bolts, nuts 20-25 m, till the belay on spits, climbing 6A-6B. From the belay go upwards through the split turning into a crack (bolts, nuts), and near a small tree go to the plateau 25-30m 5 с -6 а.

Ascent passport:
1. Crimea, Chelebi massif
2. By the left part of the S wall 3. First Ascent 4. Climbing route 5. Difference in height 120 m. Length 140m.
6. Bolts used:
climbing bolts 9.
bushings of spits 19. holes of drift 15. Nuts and friends 4.
7. Start of the route 11.05.07, ascent to the plateau 11.05.07, climbing hours 8, without previous treatment.
8. Trainer : Dulnev Vyacheslav Egorovich, instructor 2 grade. КМС.
9. Manager : Dulnev Egor Vyacheslavovich, instructor 3 grade. КМС
10. Participant: Zaytcev Nikolay Mihaylovich 1g.

Technical characteristics of the route.
R0-R1 ascent along the small corner З m, 5 с , bolt, spits.
R1-R2 passage to the right to the nail wall 15 m, sky hooks, spits, a bolt.
R2-R3 along the inclined ledge upwards and to the left to the tree, a bolt, 10 m, 5C, till the belay. R3-R4 upwards to the split 3-5m, 5 с -6 а , nuts, spits.
R4-R5 then traverse along the ledge to the left, 6-8m, till the corner, 5 с . Spits.
R5-R6 upwards through the corner 8-10m, to the small cornice, 6 а , spits, bolts.
R6-R7 passage to the left to the wall З m, 6 а , till the climbing bolt.
R7-R8 upwards 15-17m to the double spits, belay is on the spits, 6с -7а , spits.
R8-R9 upwards along the wall, which turns into 3 m crack, 13m, 7 а ,
spits.
R9-R10 upwards and to the right to the tree 20m, 6с -7а, spits, belay is near it.
R10-R11 upwards along the crack 20-25 m, 6 а , bolts, nuts, spits, till the belay on the ledge.
R11-R12 upwards through the spit, which turns into a crack, then near the tree, 6a, bolts, nuts, and then go to the plateau.

Chelebi wall (view from the road)

1. Bershov's route 2.Verba route 3.Dnepropetrovsk route 4. "Strelka" route

route of “Strannik” team

Sections R0 - R5

Sections R0 - R5

N. Zaytcev. Passage to R2-R3 section

N. Zaytcev reachas first belay

R2-R3-R4 Е . Dulnev

The beginning of R3-R4 Е . Dulnev

View on the main part of the route

Sections R5-R6 Е . Dulnev

Ascent to the R7-R8 station. Nikolay Zaytcev

Line ascent R9-R10. Е . Dulnev

Line ascent R10-R11. Nikolay Zaytcev

going to the plateau R11-R12