|Добро пожаловать !|
Войти в Клуб Mountain.RU
Mountain photos - amateur and professional photos of mountains.
Chelebi by the left part of the wall
Report about the ascent of “Strannik” team by the left part of the Chelebi wall (route # 13) during the championship “ ЦСКА ” in name of A.S. Demchenko on FA class
From the road Yalta-Sevastopol go past Parus (sail) rock along the path to Chelebi wall , then go along the wall to the left to a distinctive rock tooth 20 m high. Under the tooth there is an area where the route starts. The route starts 35 m to the left from 2 grade route “through the chimneys”. The route consists of 4 sections 30-35 m each.
First pitch (30 m), 3 m ascent, climbing 5 C, then go to the right to the nail section and 15 m ascent with sky hooks to the small inclined slab, go upwards along it and to the right, to the tree and belay on bolts, blocked with chain. On the first pitch belay using spits and a climbing bolt a nut cable can be put through it.
From the belay go upwards to the split 3 m (spits), then traverse to the left along the small ledge with juniper till the vertical corner. Go upwards 8-10 m by the corner (spits), to the small cornice, then go to the left to the wall, a good place for a horizontal climbing bolt. Then go 15-17 m upwards by the wall to the double spits. You can try free climbing (6 с -7 а ). The problem can be only with belay, screwing ears of spits. From the double spits go 10 m upwards to the distinctive crack 3 m, where 2 bolts are placed. From the upper bolt go to the right and upwards to the tree, 20 m climbing 6с -7а , till the ledge on the left from the tree, belay is on bolts. Then go upwards along the crack using bolts, nuts 20-25 m, till the belay on spits, climbing 6A-6B. From the belay go upwards through the split turning into a crack (bolts, nuts), and near a small tree go to the plateau 25-30m 5 с -6 а.
Technical characteristics of the route.
|© 1999-2007 Mountain.RU
Mail to: firstname.lastname@example.org