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Author: Max Kostrov and Olga Kostrovа
Zamok, the route "Соколиный (Sokolinuy)" 6 А, F7a+ (or VI, A3), 370m - Crimea
In previous deions the route was offered as 6A, VI, A3.
In January 2005 Olga and I sent " Соколиный (Sokolinuy)" by free climbing, and wanted to specify its deion.
All of us climb and belay on the rocks in different ways. This is our own view on climbing and belay on several sections of the route.
From the "upper" road through the small wood and not high wall ascend to the big "open" glade under the Southern wall of Zamok. The route " Соколиный (Sokolinuy)" starts just under the well seen cave, situated in the center of the wall.
R0-R1: From trees under the wall ascend to the left by easy destroyed rocks go upwards to the crack, overgrown with grass (III, 15m) . Go upwards along the crack till the "whitish rocks " (5 с /6a, 20m) - old bolt.
Climbing along the crack isn't difficult and becomes complicated because it is clogged up with soil and grass. The c rack is quite wide sometimes - friends №4 are useful .
Then go along the gullies (one more old bolt) to the left, then go upwards to the belay (7a, 10m). Belay is on 2 rusty bolts and on 12 mm spit Petzl (placed in 2000).
Good holds cam be found to the right on the wall.
R1-R2: From the belay go upwards and to the right to "the right crack" (what one is right is understandable there). Ascend by the crack to the grotto (20m). The grotto isn't too high, but it is quite deep and cosy. After the grotto traverse to the right and go upwards (4-5m) to the "destroyed" crack.
In the grotto a pin is placed, and long rope is tied to it, in 1-1,5m out of the grotto there is an old pin.
Go upwards by the crack to the ledge with trees (20m). After the ledge, turn to the left to the big tree, where belay is.
7a+ (obbl. 6c/6c+), 35m
(In previous deions VI, A3)
The overhanging crack is the crux section of all the route. On the left and on the right from the crack there are few holds. Be attentive - walls are fragile.
Attention! Walls in the lower and upper parts of the section are much destroyed!
R3-R4: From the belay go a bit upwards and then move through the break to the left on the wall. By the wall go upwards into a wide destroyed crack, ascend along it to the hole under the overhang (6a/6a+, 15m) . In the crack there are 2 bolts with note "Fantik". The overhang can be passed through in the right part – there are couple of old pins (6 с +, 5m) . Then go to the right and upwards by easy rocks (II-III, 5m) to the belay.
R5-R6: Go to the right along the ledge and move upwards to the small " curved " pine-tree, then go upwards along the crack with a big and "slim" :) pine-tree go to the gentle walls to the huge cup in the upper part of the wall. Belay is on bolts.
R6-R7-R8: By easy rocks move to the big break, situated just above you. The belay is on bolts.
To the base of the break you can move to the left or to the right. We climbed on the left – it seemed easier.R8-R9: From the belay in the upper part of the break ascend to the left and upwards to the overhanging blocks and go along them to the plateau. Belay is on bolts.
(In previous deions IV+)
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