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Author: Max Kostrov and Olga Kostrovа

Zamok, the route "Соколиный (Sokolinuy)" 6 А, F7a+ (or VI, A3), 370m - Crimea


Zamok, the route "Соколиный (Sokolinuy)"
Author of the photo: Alexey Osipov, 1999
The route " Соколиный (Sokolinuy)" was firstly sent in 1985 by Y. Lishaev ("Fantik"). Line of the route beautifully and practically by the center crosses the vertical wall of Zamok.
In previous deions the route was offered as 6A, VI, A3.
In January 2005 Olga and I sent " Соколиный (Sokolinuy)" by free climbing, and wanted to specify its deion.

All of us climb and belay on the rocks in different ways. This is our own view on climbing and belay on several sections of the route.
Belay on the route: friends, nuts, pins. From time to time old pins happen- sometimes with broken hangers, and old bolts – usually no more than 2 per section.

From the "upper" road through the small wood and not high wall ascend to the big "open" glade under the Southern wall of Zamok. The route " Соколиный (Sokolinuy)" starts just under the well seen cave, situated in the center of the wall.

R0-R1: From trees under the wall ascend to the left by easy destroyed rocks go upwards to the crack, overgrown with grass (III, 15m) . Go upwards along the crack till the "whitish rocks " (5 с /6a, 20m) - old bolt.

Climbing along the crack isn't difficult and becomes complicated because it is clogged up with soil and grass. The c rack is quite wide sometimes - friends №4 are useful .

Then go along the gullies (one more old bolt) to the left, then go upwards to the belay (7a, 10m). Belay is on 2 rusty bolts and on 12 mm spit Petzl (placed in 2000).
7a (obbl.* 6b+), 45m
(in previous deions VI, A3)
* obbl. - from obligatory - obligatory climbing level.


The first pitch.
under the " whitish rocks".
On the section R0-R1 difficult climbing starts approximately in 10 meters before the belay: previous ascenders broke the rock here – and it facilitates climbing . Thus, if you place a friend in these holes V-shape pin, think – probably, you miss a good hold.
Good holds cam be found to the right on the wall.

R1-R2: From the belay go upwards and to the right to "the right crack" (what one is right is understandable there). Ascend by the crack to the grotto (20m). The grotto isn't too high, but it is quite deep and cosy. After the grotto traverse to the right and go upwards (4-5m) to the "destroyed" crack.

In the grotto a pin is placed, and long rope is tied to it, in 1-1,5m out of the grotto there is an old pin.

Go upwards by the crack to the ledge with trees (20m). After the ledge, turn to the left to the big tree, where belay is.
6b (obbl. 6a), 45m
(In previous deions VI, A2)
Attention! Moving stones on all the section!


Terrain in the middle of
the third section.
R2-R3: From tree go to the right by the ledge into the destroyed corner. Go upwards along it till the slightly overhanging crack (5 с , 15m) . Go upwards along the crack till the slabs – an old bolt with note "Fantik" (7a+, 10m) . From bolts go upwards and a bit to the right to the red "fragile rocks. Then go to the left back into the crack and go along it to the belay under thr big cornice (6a, 10m) . Belay is on 3 old bolts.
7a+ (obbl. 6c/6c+), 35m
(In previous deions VI, A3)

The overhanging crack is the crux section of all the route. On the left and on the right from the crack there are few holds. Be attentive - walls are fragile.

Attention! Walls in the lower and upper parts of the section are much destroyed!

R3-R4: From the belay go a bit upwards and then move through the break to the left on the wall. By the wall go upwards into a wide destroyed crack, ascend along it to the hole under the overhang (6a/6a+, 15m) . In the crack there are 2 bolts with note "Fantik". The overhang can be passed through in the right part – there are couple of old pins (6 с +, 5m) . Then go to the right and upwards by easy rocks (II-III, 5m) to the belay.
Here " Соколиный (Sokolinuy)" route connects the neighboring route of Yuriy Lishaev " Через пещеру (Through the cave)" 6A. This route has been recently repaired by Alexey Jilin and Vladimir Mogila, and on every further belay you can see new bolts Petzl.
6 с + (obbl. 6a+), 25m
(In previous deions VI, A2)
Attention! On the section there are moving stones!


The section R8-R9
R4-R5:
From the belay go 10m upwards by the corner, then traverse to the right and then go along the big break to the right and upwards to the small ledge. Belay is on bolts.
5b, 50m
(In previous deions V+)
Attention! On the section there are moving stone blocks!

R5-R6: Go to the right along the ledge and move upwards to the small " curved " pine-tree, then go upwards along the crack with a big and "slim" :) pine-tree go to the gentle walls to the huge cup in the upper part of the wall. Belay is on bolts.
5b, 45m
(In previous deions IV-V)

R6-R7-R8: By easy rocks move to the big break, situated just above you. The belay is on bolts.
II-III, 90m
(In previous deions II-III)

To the base of the break you can move to the left or to the right. We climbed on the left – it seemed easier.

R8-R9: From the belay in the upper part of the break ascend to the left and upwards to the overhanging blocks and go along them to the plateau. Belay is on bolts.
4c, 35m
(In previous deions IV+)


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