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Forossky Kant: On the right side of the south-eastern face, 5 А, On the eastern ledge, 2B
ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE SOUTH-EASTERN FACE, 5 А (variation 4B)
From the road near the alpinist camps under Forossky Kant move upwards 200 m along the path, then 50 m by easy rocks to the grotto, situated in the base of the corner (R0: 250 m, 20-40 0, б/к ). On the section R1-R2 from the grotto go upwards firstly on the right side of the corner, then by the nail slabs to the long horizontal ledge. Then (section R2-R3) traverse along the ledge 20 m to the left (R1-R2: 40 m, 70 0, III+ 20 m, 70 0, II). On the section R3-R5 go upwards by the abrupt, nail face with several cracks (R3-R5: 30 m, 75 0, V+ 50 m, 75 0, V). On the section R5-R6 go upwards and to the right by middle-grade rocks (R5-R6: 40 m, 70 0, III). On the section R6-R7 go upwards and to the left 20 m by easy rocks to the base of the big vertical corner (R6-R7: 20 m, 60 0, I). On the last section of the route go upwards by the left abrupt 30-meter face of the corner with two small cornices. The cornices are passed head-on (R7- the summit: 30 m, 80 0, V+). Variation (4B). On the section R6-the summit go firstly upwards and to the right to the big corner, bordering the summits, and then move upwards along it to the plateau (R6- the summit: 50 m, 60 0, I). Length of the main part of the route is about 230 m. Time is 3 – 5 hours. ON THE EASTERN LEDGE, 2B
From the road near the alpinist camps under Forossky Kant move upwards 200 m along the path, then 50 m by easy rocks to the red overhanging wall, situated not long to the right of the wide corner (R0: 250 m, 20-40 0, б/к ). On the section R3-R4 go upwards by the slab, then go 20 m upwards and to the right (R3-R4: 40 m, 70-60 0, II-III).
Variation: On the section R1-R2 from the grotto go upwards firstly on the right side of the corner, then by the nail slabs to the long horizontal ledge. (R1-R2: 40m, 70 0, III+). Length of the main part of the route is about 240 m. Time is 2 – 3 hours. P.S. The full name of this route isn't «The right edge”, but “П----ц котенку”. This informal name was given by the FA Dnepropetrovsk students, who got into a scrape on this route. |
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