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Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
Forossky Kant. Routes "Of the green corner"
In the end of January we (Alexander Lavrinenko and Sergey Pugachev) send the new route in the left part of Forossky Kant, by the left edge of "The Green corner". The route looks so logically, that it's surprisingly why it hasn't been sent before. In the corner there are human traces, but I don't know if is passed up to the top, at least there are 2 descent loops.
R0-R1: The beginning goes along the corner (8m, III), then go to the left and upwards (20m, I-II), to the vertical wall with a crack. Difficult climbing with AID along the crack (10m, V+, A1). The belay is on the tree. R1-R2: Go upwards along the crack, difficult climbing with AID (20m, VI, A1), then move by easy rocks (20m, III) to the ledge. The belay is on your own points. R2-R3: Go upwards by the crack, then move upwards and to the right, to the group of trees R3-R4: Go upwards by easy rocks to the big ledge (50m, II). Go along the ledge to the base of a giant corner. R4-R5: Go upwards along the corner, climbing and belaying are difficult because of the rich vegegetation. There is a bolt for belay. R5-R6: Go 10m upwards by the corner, VI-, then 30m, IV, above the ivy, and logically tirn left. The belay is on the ledge a bolt. R6-R7: Move upwards by the overgrown crack, difficult climbing, sometimes AID (45m, VI, A2) The belay is before the overhang on 2 bolts. R7-R8: Go10m upwards by the crack, VI, then through the small cornice, then move along the crack 25m (VI, A2), to the rocksliding couloir. The belay is on the tree. Then on foot go to the plateau. On the right side of the the Green corner there is an easier route. On the right side of the "The Green corner" through the cornices 5 А , VI, 400m, В .Timofeev , 1981 You can start the like the previous one, the main thing is to reach the big ledge. R3-R4: Go upwards along the crack to the tree . On the tree there is a belay. R4-R5: From the tree go upwards by the abrupt, interrupting crack 10m, V+, then it becomes easier, along the overgrown crack 40m, IV. The belay is on the ledge. R5-R6: Go upwards by the crack , climbing is difficult, to the ledge before the cornices. There is a bolt. R6-R7: Go upwards to the cornices. The first one is bypassed on the left, then traverse to the right, enter the corner 10m, V+, then move 40m upwards by the corner system, IV-V, the belay is on the tree. Then move 20m by easy rocks, then go on foot to the plateau. |
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