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Notice: Undefined variable: top_comments in /usr/local/www/mountainru/data/article/mainarticle.php on line 486 Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa

Forossky Kant. Routes "Of the green corner"

In the end of January we (Alexander Lavrinenko and Sergey Pugachev) send the new route in the left part of Forossky Kant, by the left edge of "The Green corner". The route looks so logically, that it's surprisingly why it hasn't been sent before. In the corner there are human traces, but I don't know if is passed up to the top, at least there are 2 descent loops.
The route starts in the same place with the left variation of Kant po Kantu, and it goes to the left.

"By the left edge of the Green corner" 5B, VI, A2, 333m, S.Pugachev- А .Lavrinenko, 2005

R0-R1: The beginning goes along the corner (8m, III), then go to the left and upwards (20m, I-II), to the vertical wall with a crack. Difficult climbing with AID along the crack (10m, V+, A1). The belay is on the tree.
V+, A1, 38m

R1-R2: Go upwards along the crack, difficult climbing with AID (20m, VI, A1), then move by easy rocks (20m, III) to the ledge. The belay is on your own points.
VI, A1, 40m

R2-R3: Go upwards by the crack, then move upwards and to the right, to the group of trees
IV-III, 40m

R3-R4: Go upwards by easy rocks to the big ledge (50m, II). Go along the ledge to the base of a giant corner.
II, 50m

R4-R5: Go upwards along the corner, climbing and belaying are difficult because of the rich vegegetation. There is a bolt for belay.
V+, A1, 40m

R5-R6: Go 10m upwards by the corner, VI-, then 30m, IV, above the ivy, and logically tirn left. The belay is on the ledge a bolt.
IV, 40m

R6-R7: Move upwards by the overgrown crack, difficult climbing, sometimes AID (45m, VI, A2) The belay is before the overhang on 2 bolts.
VI, A2, 45m

R7-R8: Go10m upwards by the crack, VI, then through the small cornice, then move along the crack 25m (VI, A2), to the rocksliding couloir. The belay is on the tree.
VI, A2, 35m

Then on foot go to the plateau.
On the rout е hooks are needed, in addition tostoppers and friends. We ascended in temperature about 0°C, may be it is possible to ascend the route without AID in warm period.

On the right side of the the Green corner there is an easier route.

On the right side of the "The Green corner" through the cornices 5 А , VI, 400m, В .Timofeev , 1981

You can start the like the previous one, the main thing is to reach the big ledge.

R3-R4: Go upwards along the crack to the tree . On the tree there is a belay.
IV, 30m

R4-R5: From the tree go upwards by the abrupt, interrupting crack 10m, V+, then it becomes easier, along the overgrown crack 40m, IV. The belay is on the ledge.
V+, 50m

R5-R6: Go upwards by the crack , climbing is difficult, to the ledge before the cornices. There is a bolt.
VI, А 1, 40m

R6-R7: Go upwards to the cornices. The first one is bypassed on the left, then traverse to the right, enter the corner 10m, V+, then move 40m upwards by the corner system, IV-V, the belay is on the tree.
V, 50m

Then move 20m by easy rocks, then go on foot to the plateau.
As for the gear, you might need nuts, friends, hooks can be useful (I ascended without them, but it was long time ago, something old could fall out)

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