Author: Vladimir Mogila, Odessa
The route of Yuriy Lishaev "Через пещеру (Through the cave)" 6А, VII+, A2, 360m
On November 17 Vladimir Mogila with Alexey Jilin ( Odessa ) finisheh "the repair" of the route of Yuriy Lishaev ("Fantik") " Через пещеру (Through the cave)".
- Equipped belays.
- Rebolted the route.
- Cleaned the route from old pins and nuts.
- As it was possible cleaned the route from moving stones.
For belays used pins "PETZL". As a rule it were "Batinox" (diameter - 14 mm , diepth - 11 с m, 2-component glue) and "Long Life" ( 12 mm , 6,5 с m). Through "Batinox" rope can be pulled while apseiling. In case of resque operation one can quickly descend from the plateau.
Most of the interim bolts are "CASSIN" ( 10 mm , 7 с m). On bolt ladders they were replaced next nearest. On the second pitch most of the interim bolts are "PETZL" "Colinox" ( 10 mm , 7 с m).
Placed 2 additional pins: in the beginning of the first pitch (a dangerous section above the ground) and in the middle of the fifth (a dangerous section above the ledge).
The belay in the cave removed slightly to the right (to reduce friction by the sharp walls). On the first 3 pitches there is an opportunity to descend with one 50-meter rope (on the first one there is an additional descent belay in 20 meters under the cave, on the second and thied there are rings in the middle of the sections).
Short deion of the sections:
Classification UIAA (11 grades of climbing with "+" and "-", and 5 grades for AID). see the comparative table of grades
R0 - R1 85°, VI- A1, VII+/A2, 45m
In the middle of the pitch the right traverse ends in pendulum to the parallel crack.
R1 - R2 95° VI A2 38m
R2 - R3 95° VI- A2 48m
R3 - R4 50° II 15m
Traverse to the left by the ledge.
R4 - R5 70° V 40m
R5 - R6 75° IV 40m
R6 - R7 45° III 70m
Starts with an inclined 30-meter section.
R7 - R8 45° II 35m
R8 - R9 75° IV- 30m