Unknown routes on Zamok / English. Climbing / Mountain.RU


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Unknown routes on Zamok

"Sokolinuy" (falcon's) 6 А , VI, A3 (Lishaev's route)

R0-R1: from the tree go upwards through easy destroyed rocks 15 m , then go upwards along the crack, difficult climbing to the overhang 20 m , then AID by cracks 10 m to the belay (3 bolts) IV, А 3, 45m

R1-R2: From the belay go upwards 10 m by difficult climbing, then to the grotto 10 m difficult climbing. From the grotto it is a difficult traverse to the right 5 m to the crack with destroyed walls. Go upwards along the crack to the ledge with big trees. VI, А 2, 35m

R2-R3: from the tree go 5 m to the right and 10 m along the corner, then 15 m AID and sometimes free climbing along the interrupting crack. Belay is on 2 bolts under the overhang VI, А 3, 30m.

R3-R4: From the belay go to the right and upwards 20 m by difficult climbing along the overhanging corner with moving stones. Go to the ledge, and 5 m to the right. Belay.
VI, А 2, 25m

R4-R5: Go 10 m upwards along the corner, then 8 m to the right, and go by corner-chimney to the ledge. Belay is on the bolt .
V, 50 m

R5-R6: Go 5 m to the right along the ledge, then go upwards along the crack with big pine-tree to the inclined rocks.
V-, 45m

R6-R7: Go through the easy rocks to the big crack.
II, 80 m

R7-R8: Go upwards along the crack, through the small overhang, to the plateau.
IV+, 40m

Time : 6-8 hours

Along the S wall via “Peshera (Cave)” (Lishaev's route) 6 А , VI, A3

R0-R1: Go 7 m to the left and upwards. The bolt. Then go upwards along the crack firstly 5- 8 m climbing, then AID to the bolt line. Go 8 m to the right along the bolts, then swing to the right 5- 7 m to the bolt. From the bolt go 10 m to the right and upwards AID along the crack, then climb to the grotto. Belay. VI, А 3, 55m, 80°

R1-R2: After the belay descend a bit and go to the right to the corner, and go to the bolt. From the bolt go upwards by overhanging wall AID (sky hooks, bolts, small nuts) 10 m , then climb to the belay. VI, А 3, 30m, 95°

R2-R3: Go upwards by AID along the crack to the bolt line. Go upwards along the bolts. Belay is on 3 bolts.
VI, А 2, 40m, 90°

R3-R4: Go along the bolts to the small overhang. Go through it by AID (sky hooks, small nuts) 15 m , then climb on the ledge. Go 10 m to the left along the ledge. Belay. VI, А 3, 50m, 80°

R4-R7: then the route matches “Sokoliny” route.

Time: 9-11 hours.

By the corners of the left side of S wall (Lishaev's route) 5B, VI, A3

R0-R1: Go 10 m upwards by easy rocks to the overhang. Go to the left and upwards through the overhang, difficult climbing 10 m , then go 10- 15 m along the overgrown crack. Belay is to the left from the crack on the ledge – 2 bolts.
VI, А 2, 35-40m, 80°

R1-R2: Go upwards along the crack, to the corner 10 м , 80°, VI , then go upwards along the corner to the overhang. Belay is on big nuts.
VI, 10m, 80° + III-IV, 30m, 65°

R2-R3: Go upwards along the overhanging crack to the tree, then difficult climbing along the crack, AID, go to the corner, overgrown with ivy. Belay is on the bolt. VI, А 3, 50m

R3-R4: Go upwards along the corner, to the ledge with a big tree. Belay.
V, 40m, 70°

R4-R5: From the tree go to the left and upwards, move along the crescent-shaped corner, to the inclined rocks. Belay is on the tree.
IV, 50m, 60°

R5-R7: I-II, 100m Go upwards along the easy rocks, to the left crack of the top tower.

R7-R8: Go to the plateau by the crack-corner.
III, 30m 60°

Time: 5-7 hours.

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