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Автор: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
Unknown routes on Zamok
R0-R1: from the tree go upwards through easy destroyed rocks 15 m , then go upwards along the crack, difficult climbing to the overhang 20 m , then AID by cracks 10 m to the belay (3 bolts) IV, А 3, 45m
R2-R3: from the tree go 5 m to the right and 10 m along the corner, then 15 m AID and sometimes free climbing along the interrupting crack. Belay is on 2 bolts under the overhang VI, А 3, 30m.
R3-R4: From the belay go to the right and upwards 20 m by difficult climbing along the overhanging corner with moving stones. Go to the ledge, and 5 m to the right. Belay.
R4-R5: Go 10 m upwards along the corner, then 8 m to the right, and go by corner-chimney to the ledge. Belay is on the bolt .
R5-R6: Go 5 m to the right along the ledge, then go upwards along the crack with big pine-tree to the inclined rocks.
R6-R7: Go through the easy rocks to the big crack.
R7-R8: Go upwards along the crack, through the small overhang, to the plateau.
Time : 6-8 hours
Along the S wall via “Peshera (Cave)” (Lishaev's route) 6 А , VI, A3
R1-R2: After the belay descend a bit and go to the right to the corner, and go to the bolt. From the bolt go upwards by overhanging wall AID (sky hooks, bolts, small nuts) 10 m , then climb to the belay. VI, А 3, 30m, 95°
R2-R3: Go upwards by AID along the crack to the bolt line. Go upwards along the bolts. Belay is on 3 bolts.
R3-R4: Go along the bolts to the small overhang. Go through it by AID (sky hooks, small nuts) 15 m , then climb on the ledge. Go 10 m to the left along the ledge. Belay. VI, А 3, 50m, 80°
R4-R7: then the route matches “Sokoliny” route.
Time: 9-11 hours.
By the corners of the left side of S wall (Lishaev's route) 5B, VI, A3
VI, А 2, 35-40m, 80°
R1-R2: Go upwards along the crack, to the corner 10 м , 80°, VI , then go upwards along the corner to the overhang. Belay is on big nuts.
R2-R3: Go upwards along the overhanging crack to the tree, then difficult climbing along the crack, AID, go to the corner, overgrown with ivy. Belay is on the bolt. VI, А 3, 50m
R3-R4: Go upwards along the corner, to the ledge with a big tree. Belay.
R4-R5: From the tree go to the left and upwards, move along the crescent-shaped corner, to the inclined rocks. Belay is on the tree.
R5-R7: I-II, 100m Go upwards along the easy rocks, to the left crack of the top tower.
R7-R8: Go to the plateau by the crack-corner.
Time: 5-7 hours.
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