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Author: Andrew Jernokleev, Moscow

Crimea. South-Westernая face of Cape Aya.. Route "«Стрегор» (Stregor)"

The name of the route is “«Стрегор» (Stregor)” in memory of Yu. Strelnikov and N. Gorunov, who were lost in Caucasus in winter 2004.

There is yet no grade, only the deion of its sections. As far as it isn't possible now to make the continuation of the route till the top of the wall, and there have already been the ascents, we give the deion to everyone.

Approach from the sanatorium “Cape Aya” is about 30 minutes.

The type of the route is “sport-route”. Gear - 15 quickdraws and 2 loops (for belay on the 5-th section). 60m rope is necessary (or 2 shorter ropes) and helmets.

Route “«Стрегор» (Stregor)” starts 10m to the right from the beginning of the route “ Вор from а ”, which was renewed and bolted in its lower part by A. Jilin and V. Mogila in summer 2004 (till the right half-arch of “Вор from а” cornice а ).

The peculiarities of the rocks near the sea didn't let to clean the wall on the route fully. Quite fragile rocks sometimes is found. On the separate sections of the 3 rd and 4rth parts near the modern points there is an old destroyed bolt ladder of an unknown route. “for re-clipping”. It presumably can be Gorbenko's route, but there are no traces of climbing above the cornice.

Now there are 6 sections from 12-15 (estimated).

1-st Section: climbing on foot (25m, 6а+ ).
2-nd: (25m, 6b ).
3-rd: (25m, 7а ). There is a small overhang.

4-th: The most difficult one (up to 7b, 20m). In the beginning of the section there is a cornice with a big hold. It is terribly a bit to use it. Then it is easier climbing from the overhang to the crack (5c, 25m) Attention! There are moving stones.

5- th: On this section you can use loops for belay, distance to the first bolt is 6-7 meterоs, but climbing is not difficult (6а, 25m).

6- th: The last pitch, interesting climbing along the crack ( 6b, 25m).

« Стрегор » (Stregor) route line now reaches only the middle part of the wall. Descending along the ascent way is with small pendulums. To go to the route “ Вор from а ” you need to traverse15- 20 meters to the left along the ledge, till the big tree under the right part of the “gates”.

Belay is on double bolts (10mm). Except a single one in the middle of the, which is better missed on descend and go 2 sections downwards.

Full ascent of the prepared sections (in 2005):
Max Petrenko
Anton Serov

Worked: (3-5.10.2004.):
T. Ivankov ( Kiev ),
Yu. Martunov ( Lvov ),
А .Jernokleev ( Moscow ),
S. Nadtochiy ( Simferopol ),
O. Pugach ( Simferopol )

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