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Uarch-Kaya
The route NEW "Shambala"


Andrew Vedenmeer
on Uarch-Kaya
Equipped:

20.05.-01.06.2004.
Grade:
3 Б /4A ,(F 6 а ) , 220meters.
Authors:
Sergey Nadtochiy (Simferopol)
Andrew Vedenmeer (Yalta)
Alexander Marinkevich (Yalta)
Gear recommended:
50 meter Main rope (better 60) quickdraws – at least 10 helmets (!).


Scheme of the routes
on Uarch-Kaya
The route "Shambala" was sent last year by Sergey Nadtochey. Because of the new route "Red Fox" situated nearby, the main (central) part of the route "Shambala" was changed, with Author's agreement. The route became more difficult and interesting: the route line now goes along the solid slabs, aside from the bushes. The route line straightened.
The beginning of the route is signed, pins are marked with red paint, every following pin is seen.
Section RO-R1 : practically wasn't changed, "the belay" was transferred in 5 meters above and 2 pins were added. Attention : pins aren't often, climb on friction!
R1-R2 - climbing is not difficult at all, slabs are inclined.
R2-R3 - " spice " of the route а . The only hole in the wall - 9- 10 meters – gives a real pleasure. Such terrain is not often: you constantly climb by the overhangs. After the overhangs the route goes to the right.
R3-R4 – on the 2nd pin there is a difficult section, which demands persistence. 2 upper pins on this pitch remained from the first variation of the route.
R4-R5 - beginning of this section was changed: it goes upwards, by the solid wall. 2 pins were added. The rest of the section wasn't changed. Attention : quite long distances between the pins, uncomfortable climbing!
Comfortable descent along the path " Чертова лестница " (Devil's stairs).

The deion:
R0-R1 - 47 m 9 pins. 6 а
R1-R2 - 47 m 6 pins. 5 а
R2-R3 - 43 m 10 pins. 6 а
R3-R4 - 40 m 6 pins. 5b
R4-R5 - 38 m 7 pins. 5c+


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