Samoded’s Route. 5B (TD+), VII-, A2 (6-7 hours) / English. Climbing / Mountain.RU


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Samoded’s Route. 5B (TD+), VII-, A2 (6-7 hours)

Ascend to the wall before the most distant from Kush-Kaya big crack. The reference point is a cascade of 2 cornices with brown splits. The route starts under them. The first bolt is well seen in 4 m above the ground. All the bolts are new Cassin, Lucky, Petzl.

R0-R1: Start along the slab, difficult climbing, sky hooks and small stoppers can help. 30 m , 6 bolts (VII-, A1). Then go along the overhanging corner, firstly by AID, then climbing, to the belay (10m, V, А 2). Theoretically, it is climbable.
VII-, A2, 40m

R1-R2: From the belay go to the bolt, then 3 bolts re-clip (there are holds, but it overhangs). From the last bolt climb 5 m upwards to the cornice. Then AID along the overhanging crack (A2 – stoppers, small friends) 7- 10 m to the right and upwards. Then climb a bit to the bolt. Then 5 bolts re-clip through the overhang to the slab. Go 5- 7 m to the left and upwards along the slab to the small crack, put a hook in it, and swing 3 m to the right, belay.
A2, 45m

R2-R3: From the belay climb to the left and upwards to the inclined area, then go along the crack to the right and upwards and then go upwards to the trees. Bolt with ring is near a tree. Belay.
VI+, А 1, 50m

R3-R4: Go to the right along the ledge, turn by the corner, go upwards to the tree. There belay can be made.
II, 30m

R4-R5: From the tree go upwards along the crack (attention – rocks are fragile) to the ledge. Belay is on the juniper.
VI, 30m

R5-R6: Then there is a long traverse to the right to the base of the chimney. Easy but destroyed rocks. Belay is in base of the chimney on the nuts.
II-III, 40m

R6-R7: Go upwards along the chimney. Belay is on the tree.
V, 30m

R7-R8: From the belay go upwards and to the left. Climbing is easy but belay is difficult. Belay is on the ledge with trees.
VI-, 50m

Then about 150 m of easy climbing (II-III) to the peak.

I'd also like to give a deion of one more route on Cape Aya . I send it firstly with S. Pugachev. I don't know who is FA. The route is logical and beautiful, but bolts are very old and rare. After 4 pitches the route links with Samoded's one. It starts 50 m to the right. The reference point is a bolt 5 m up the ground.

По серому зеркалу " (“Through the gray nail wall”) 5B (TD), VI+, A1, 6-7 hours

R0-R1: Go upwards along the slab to the bolt, then go to the left and upwards to the next bolt, then go upwards to the small black split, then to the right and upwards along the series of small cracks. Climbing is difficult, at least F6 in its lower part, then easier. Belay is on 2 bolts, one of them we placed in 2004.
VI+, А 1, 45m

R1-R2: From the belay go upwards and to the right along the crack system. Go to the small overhang. Belay is on 3 bolts.
VI, 40m

R2-R3: From the belay go upwards, there are several bolts, then through an overhanging corner go upwards, the rocks become easier. Go to the ledge in the base of the big dihedral. Belay is on the bolt.
VI+, А 1, 50m

R3-R4: Then go upwards along the corner (10 m, V), and to the left on the ledge, then go upwards to the tree. Here Samoded's route comes (R4).
V, 40m

Routes on Cape Aya .

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