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Author: Streltcov S, Zakutin A., Sevastopol
route 6А, VI, A3, 236 m
Cape Aya . The summit is 235,2 m (“Arfen”). Streltcov S., Zakutin A. 8.09.2002
I. The main recommendations are in the deion of the route “Oba-Na!” 6A-2001
II. Swimming facilities. In season 2002 we used double inflatable beach mattresses put into one protecting cover which helped:
• Absolutely exclude their repair
• To improve hardness, freight-carrying capacity of the “vessel”.
• To simplify landing to the wall.
• “Wardrobe” (station R1) is situated 8 m above the sea and is equipped stationary.
• The ascent to R1 by vertical wall is made with sky hooks using the relief. The beginning of the ascent is 2.5 m to the west of vertical projection of the station.
• After the ascent to the station one needs to throw down to the water an end of the rope D 6 mm from it small section of the rope is a guarantee of safe equipment.
• On 1.5 m above the water a short ladder and a cargo ersatz-karabiner for the fixation of flippers, fit out with loops, must be fixed to this rope.
• Daily changing clothes in hanging position requires fine-tuning by scheme: “flippers, fixers, lifting, putting on harnesses” and vice versa.
Attention! Screamer on sections R0 - R1 - R2 threatens to drowning!
IV. About the route.
1. The route line is approximated to the line of falling water as much as the relief allows.
2. In contrast to other routs, the upper section of “Piranha” from R8 point is vertical, not along the system of ledges III – IV grade which go to the east.
3. That's why total length of difficult V – VI-grade sections is 160 m. Mainly it is an aid route with free climbing potential and the strain is practically equal from R0 to R9.
4. For fixing line up, apseils etc we indicate distances between the belay points.
R1 - R3 = 42 - 43 m
6. At the end of the interval R5 - R6, at the right, there is an unstable vertical obelisk 2 m high with 0.5 m diameter. Be attentive!
7. If it is needed, from R6 point the way to the peak is possible along the crack upwards and to the right (III – IV grades.)
1. Cracks 3-10 mm wide predominate . They go into the massif at an angle to the right and are useful for the universal bolts with left flap.
2. A high corrosive tearing of bolts placed in 1996 in the lower part of the wall (R1 - R3) is noted. We advise to duplicate all the bolts met.
3. On the first 12 m above R8 a dangerous interlayer of crushed limestone outcrops. Cracks are filled with the secondary calcite – belay is unreliable. It is needed to add 1-2 bolts .
4. On the section R5 - R6 stoppers will be needed. They also help on 8-12 and 40-50 m of R8 - R9 interval.
6. A reliable punch is obligatory.
7. The lower 90 m of the route are rockfally. The belayer needs a helmet.
8. The belayer will be grateful for inflexible veneer “harness” among all, it makes a “striptease” in “wardrobe” easier.
9. A container for rope operating from the belay point will preserve the ropes dry.
10. Total time of the leader on the ascent is 27 hours
Time of the team spent for crossings, starts, lining up etc during 7 calendar days is 60-65 hours.
11. On second ascent amount of aiding reduces to 80-90 points, total time – to 45-50 hours.
12. It is desirable that you foresee a day's rest after first three days of work and to pay attention to the reservation of time resources for the case of bad weather.
A note of Streltcov S., Zakutin A. 18.07.2001 about the route “Oba-Na!” was taken off the summit.
On our opinion, the route “Piranha” can be estimated as 6A grade.
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