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Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
Treugolnik (Triangle) mountain ( 1000 m altitude) is located above Parkovoe village, 2 km to the west from Morcheka. The wall has western orientation, so it is hardly seen from the lower road. Length of its middle part is > 400 m , difference is > 300 m . It is better to go to this wall through the quarry. From the water spring go upwards 15 minutes to the wall. There are 2 6-grade routes on it. 3-grade goes along the SW ridge. There are many facilities for the first ascent routes on this wall.
Start is an inclined corner, 20 m to the right and upwards, go to the inclined ledge. Go to the left and upwards along the ledge to the bolt. Belay.
R1 (40m, 60°, IV)
Go 10 m to the left and upwards along the crack, then along the slab go to the corner.
Then 20 m AID along the corner, sometimes it is free climbing, the corner ends in a small cornice. After the cornice go 10 m to the right and upwards. Belay is on the ledge.
R4 (50m, 85°, VI, А 2) Go to the right and upwards, a difficult crossing to the crack, then go along the overhanging crack to the big pine-tree.
From the pine-tree go upwards to the ridge along the middle-difficult rocks. Go along the ridge to the second wall part and descend a bit to the left on the large inclined ledge.
After the ledge go 15 m upwards, the crack ends, then make a small pendulum ( 5 m ) to the left and upwards, rocks are destroyed, belay is difficult. Belay is on the long narrow ledge.
Go upwards along the crack – chimney to the cornice. Belay is on the bolt.
Go 10 m upwards to the chimney which should be passed in its right part. Above the cornice traverse 10 m to the right to the inclined ledge with a tree.
From the belay go 10 m upwards along the crack, then along the abrupt wall go to the base of the dihedral, go along the corner, to the tree.
R9 (50m, 85°, VI, А 3)
Then go 150 m by simple rocks to the summit. Time: 10 working hours.
All the belays on the route need to be straightened. I recommend taking several bolts. Simplified variation: start is in the right side of the wall in the couloir, then go along the corner system (IV-V) to the ledge in the middle of the route. The route is rarely visited.
Forostyan's route - is also rarely visited, start is in 100 m to the left from Grishenko's route. In the middle part of the wall a big chimney is seen through it the route goes. Last ascent was made in May 2000 by Pugachev-Belkov ( Donetsk ) > 10 working hours.
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