Author: Streltcov S., Sevastopol
Cape Aya. Face with altitude 394,2m
in the Northern end of the amphitheatre of " The Lost World
Route «АССОЛЬ» (Assol)
5B, V, A3, 220m Lyapun А ., Streltcov S. - 1986 (variation I)
6 А, VI, A3, 230m. Streltcov S., Zakutin А ., Streltcov M . - 2003 (variation II)
About the route:
· Beginning of the route goes along the ridge of the buttress, which encases the Western border of the Main couloir (corner).
· The ridge is comfortable in climbing aspect, with the cracks for hooks.
· Moving direction is to the upper of 2 ledges with big (up to 12 m) junipers. The control reference point is a grotto after the right tree on the upper ledge. Grotto can be used as a bivy.
· From the grotto descend 6 m to the upper part of the Main couloir. Here R4 is.
· From R4 go along the left lip of the "Gray slab" 10 m, then go to the left-upwards to the vertical corner. This is a dangerous zone: estimate the rock strength attentively!
· In 2003 R4 - R5 interval was cleaned from moving stones for the aim of making video (it was thrown out up to 600 kg ).
· Belay R5 place to the right from the exit of the corner on 2 junipers. The balcony is brushed.
· If it is needed, you can go aslant-to the right to the easy terrain along the II grade corner.
· On the ascent by "variation I", from R6 sky hooks "for holes" will be needed. Above 7 m the cracks are closed. They open only on 10 - 11 m .
· On the ascent through the cornices by "variation II" you will be surprised by the excellent horizontal cracks on the border of the wall and the roof. Width is 20- 25 mm . Sky hooks for the sharp lips are needed. Width of the crack above the cornice is up to 100mm.
· Acoustic connection is difficult because of the sea and wind. So, ascending 3 m after the cornice for making belay R9, the leader can descend a little to the lip of the cornice.
· Belay R6 Is ideal for video of climbing through the cornices. Cornice is brushed from R8 toR9.
Total height of the wall from the foot to the plateau is 280- 300 m.
Note: wall location is marked on the view photo of the region, in the deion of the route "Pourquoi pas?" - 2003.